Hasegawa 1/32 Fw 190D-9

[ThatJeffGuy]

Thanks for that info David

[ThatJeffGuy]

Not a lot done this weekend but here's a small update. All major parts are on and Tamiya fine white

primer applied (love that stuff since seeing it first on Floyd's first DVD). I put down some Alclad II

Duraluminum on the whole bottom of the plane and a bit on the gun cover and wing roots for

simulated chipping later on (never tried this...hope it works :blink: ). I watched Floyd's second DVD on

using Alclad yesterday so I was pumped This is the largest area of NMF I have ever

tried. I used my Badger 200 single-action brush as recommended on the DVD and it didn't turn

out too badly. The pictures don't show it but I can see some small imperfections do to laziness

in surface prep. If it hasn't been said a millon times already let me say it again for the Alclad

newbies....surface prep is everything! when the paint goes down it shows every little imperfection

no matter how small.

Here's what the bottom will look like initially (thanks to Dave for the scan )

Although this particular plane has a half a Balkenkreuze and some red primer on some of it's

underwing panel lines due to repairs.

BTW...Does anybody have a good colour match for the red primer in MM enamel

Thanks for looking

[jrallman]

Jeff, looks great! Just make sure you remember where you sprayed the metal when you go to chip the paint so you dont chip your top coat to reveal ... plastic! I dont think there is a good 1:1 MM color for red primer, but IIRC, MM rust is a good starting point.

[ThatJeffGuy]

Good point!....at least I have the photo for reference..... Thanks Jay

[Shawn C.]

Hey Jeff,

Lookin' real good so far! NMF is generally EVIL, but your's looks nice so far. I haven't tried that method for paint chipping either because it sure has to be more labor intensive than my color pencils! It will be good to see how your efforts turn out.

So, would you recommend Floyd's first DVD? I really like the subject material he's chosen for it and I believe I would probably learn quite a bit (Floyd's builds are great), but I'm worried about the "watchability" of it, if that makes any sense.

Thanks,

Shawn

[ThatJeffGuy]

Hey Jeff,

Lookin' real good so far! NMF is generally EVIL, but your's looks nice so far. I haven't tried that method for paint chipping either because it sure has to be more labor intensive than my color pencils! It will be good to see how your efforts turn out.

So, would you recommend Floyd's first DVD? I really like the subject material he's chosen for it and I believe I would probably learn quite a bit (Floyd's builds are great), but I'm worried about the "watchability" of it, if that makes any sense.

Thanks,

Shawn

Hi Shawn,

Yes, I would highly recommend Floyd's first DVD....especially if you do a 'build along' like I did

This build has established the pattern for all my following builds because only the kit is changing.

As to watchability......I have to admit when I re-watch sections to confirm techniques I can sometimes

lull myself to sleep; I mean really, it's pretty dry stuff and Floyd's voice is very soothing. I hope that's

not taken as a criticism....the first time you see something the way he does it, you're on the

edge of your seat :D

About the only techniques I don't use that he shows are Future (just haven't jumped on that bandwagon

yet) and I use BMF for masking canopies because I've gotten good at it.

:D

[Shawn C.]

Thanks for the mini-review Jeff. Your '109G-6 looks top notch too. I have been thinking about buying this as I need another kit like I need a hole in my head! Also, I'm in a bit of a rut as to how I complete my aircraft builds. It would be great to learn some new techniques and expand my horizons a bit.

Take Care,

Shawn

[jrallman]

Jeff, I'm with you on the Future thing. I have tried it many times as a gloss coat before and after decals and it just never works out well for me. I have found that I actually prefer MM Acryl Gloss Clear. Future is for canopy dipping only for me!

[skuki]

Great progress !!

I would also recommend using MM rust for red primer.

I just love those Dora's with W2 and W3 schemes, especially combined with rlm 76a (rlm84 unoficial).

Also You can experiment with rlm 76, cause they used it sometimes (among other colours) to spray only panel lines and rivet lines on bare metal areas at the bottom for protection.

:D

[ThatJeffGuy]

Jeff, I'm with you on the Future thing. I have tried it many times as a gloss coat before and after decals and it just never works out well for me. I have found that I actually prefer MM Acryl Gloss Clear. Future is for canopy dipping only for me!

Maybe I should try it for canopy dipping....I use the Humbrol products for matt and gloss. I even

stashed 24 bottles of the Matt Cote when I thought Humbrol was going Tango Uniform.

What exactly are you getting from dipping Jay.....shinier surface? protection from gunk from your

masking (I find WD-40 works fine for cleaning leftover BMF gunk)

:D

[ThatJeffGuy]

Great progress !!

I would also recommend using MM rust for red primer.

I just love those Dora's with W2 and W3 schemes, especially combined with rlm 76a (rlm84 unoficial).

Also You can experiment with rlm 76, cause they used it sometimes (among other colours) to spray only panel lines and rivet lines on bare metal areas at the bottom for protection.

:D

Thanks Marko

[jrallman]

dipping in future for canopies gives me a few things. If there are are scuffs, scratches, etc. the future will generally fill them in and make them invisible. If they are deeper than the future can fill on its own, you can sand and buff the canopy, then future coat it and it looks better than new!. Future also gives me a barrier in case I screw up the masking and some paint gets on an area that should be clear. I can just use amonia to strip the canopy, and start over without ruining the canopy. also, the future acts as a barrier against CA crazing, so I can use small amounts of CA to secure difficult canopy sections without worrying about frosting the canopy. and if i do, i just strip with amonia and try again. future also makes your canopies look clearer than they would without the dip, which is nice, especially for older or limited run kits. works on vac too. i usually mask with tamiya tape, parafilm, or sometimes commercially available masks, and all have worked fine with the future.

[The Mikester]

I've gotten away from using Future on canopies, I had a problem with it really distorting things when you looked through the clear pieces, kind of like old fashioned leaded glass. This may be due to the fact that some canopies in 1/72 are just too small. I use some Novus Plastic Clean and Shine and they come out looking fine.

For my gloss coat I use Krylon Acrylic Crystal Clear from Wal Mart, big can is only a few bucks and it lasts forever, just don't spray it over decals though, learned a lesson the hard way on that one. <_<

[ThatJeffGuy]

dipping in future for canopies gives me a few things. If there are are scuffs, scratches, etc. the future will generally fill them in and make them invisible. If they are deeper than the future can fill on its own, you can sand and buff the canopy, then future coat it and it looks better than new!. Future also gives me a barrier in case I screw up the masking and some paint gets on an area that should be clear. I can just use amonia to strip the canopy, and start over without ruining the canopy. also, the future acts as a barrier against CA crazing, so I can use small amounts of CA to secure difficult canopy sections without worrying about frosting the canopy. and if i do, i just strip with amonia and try again. future also makes your canopies look clearer than they would without the dip, which is nice, especially for older or limited run kits. works on vac too. i usually mask with tamiya tape, parafilm, or sometimes commercially available masks, and all have worked fine with the future.

Thanks for the explanation Jay.

I'm hoping that the watch crystal cement I picked up will allow me to glue resin and P/E stuff to canopies

without crazing. If it doesn't I might be quickly jumping on the Future bandwagon <_<

[ThatJeffGuy]

Moving right along...I gotta get a contract; I've got too much time on my hands

Pre-shaded using MM RLM66

Masked NMF panels and painted the RLM76 bottom panels

RLM66'ed (is that a verb?) the tail

Looks like my first RLM84 adventure will be tomorrow.

Thanks for looking

<_<

[Rampage55]

Very nice work, I've enjoyed following your progress. <_<

Mark

[David Walker]

I'm not sure if it's too late to mention this, but seeing the flaps attached, the Has. and Revell (reboxed Has.) both have the same problem with the flaps being way too far extended using the tabs as is. The flaps shouldn't be any more than about 60 degrees extended, but if not modified (by bending the attachment tabs) they sit closer to 90 degrees. Hopefully you can fix those before painting.

Edited December 12, 2006 by David Walker

[ThatJeffGuy]

I'm not sure if it's too late to mention this, but seeing the flaps attached, the Has. and Revell (reboxed Has.) both have the same problem with the flaps being way too far extended using the tabs as is. The flaps shouldn't be any more than about 60 degrees extended, but if not modified (by bending the attachment tabs) they sit closer to 90 degrees. Hopefully you can fix those before painting.

Thanks David....I did not know that. They're at a full 90 degrees and attached at the moment. I'll see

if I can bend them up 30 degrees. They'll probably snap under load but CA should fix'em

....now...where did I leave that protractor

[jrallman]

are your flaps NMF too, or are you painting them blue/green primer? the scans from Dave with the bottom color schemes show that the flaps were sometimes painted in blue/green primer, and sometimes not. looking really good, cant wait to see that 84 get on there!

[ThatJeffGuy]

are your flaps NMF too, or are you painting them blue/green primer? the scans from Dave with the bottom color schemes show that the flaps were sometimes painted in blue/green primer, and sometimes not. looking really good, cant wait to see that 84 get on there!

I'm using the EagleCal bottom reference since it has the latest date :D See pics below....My first

experience with 84....I used MM Sky Type S with a dash of 76 (no Azur floating around in my

stash)

Sorry about the focus....just wanted to show the contrast between the 84 and the 76

Here's the bottom minus the red primer on some of the panel lines as per the EagleCal sheet. I actually

goofed here since the sheet seems to show the horizontal stabs were NMF...oh well <_< Outer flap

surfaces are NMF (EagleCal again) and I guessed internal flap surfaces would be 02....I worried

over the 02 decision after reading that late Doras had wooden flaps, but now that I think of it if

the outside was NMF then the inside might have been primed with 02 :huh:

I'm really agonizing over the upper wing camo....The EagleCal sheet doesn't say what the colours are.

From a source I mentioned previously they say they thought it was 77/75 (light grey / grauviolet)

but they've changed their mind to say it's 84 for the light colour and 81 braunviolett for the

dark colour.....but this 84 seems so light :blink: (here's the link BTW)

Once again....paralysis by analysis

What to do....what to do.....I have enough 84 to do it and 81 in my stash but I need to go get some

MM rust for the red primer tomorrow anyway so I could get some 77 that I don't have

[The Mikester]

What to do....what to do

Whichever choice you make will inevitably be wrong, Jeff. Murphy's Law of LW modeling, as soon as you're done someone will find a long lost picture with conclusive evidence that it's differeet from the way you just did it. :D

Looks great, will be a beauty whatever you decide...

Mike

[ThatJeffGuy]

Thanks Mike :)

I was just fiddling with my camera and I actually found the white balance setting under the manual

settings. Here's a couple of comparison shots

original

corrected white balance (same incandescant lighting / location)

Just goes to show you can't trust photos.....the corrected one is a lot closer to the colour I'm seeing

with my eyes. The original is a little too green

here's an adjusted view of the top-side

[jrallman]

looks awesome Jeff! I dont suppose you could shoot some test paint of the 84/81 so we can see what it would look like? maybe put it next to some 77/75 tests?

[David Walker]

That color corrected shot looks much more like what I was expecting to see. The first ones did look awfully green. Very nice.

[ThatJeffGuy]

That color corrected shot looks much more like what I was expecting to see. The first ones did look awfully green. Very nice.

yeah..kinda like the iridescent green in the Squadron book. I'm glad I figured out the setting

for the camera. It should make a big difference in my pics now..... I hope anyway.