Enamel paint over acrylics

[SCOUT712]

I was planning to use PolyScale clear over Gunze acrylics, but since there has been

a topic lately where guys where complaining about PS , I don't know if this is still a good

idea.

I am thinking to use Modelmaster clear instead, but this is enamel based paint.

Is it possible to cover acrylics with enamels, or will the paint break up ?

Thanks !

SCOUT

[dragonfly]

If you're refering to MM Dullcote or Glosscoat, I believe they're laquer based. I personally don't use it, but I know lots of guys who do and have no problems. Just don't apply too heavy. I know there's been talk about a possible bad batch of PS, but the bottles I have are just fine and I love it.

Jerry

[GGoheen]

I use MM dullcoat over Gunze acrylics all the time without any problems!

[redruffensore]

Enamels over acrylics present no problem, as you are shooting a cold paint over a hot paint. However, always test when shooting acrylic over enamel. Enamel is a cold paint and dries slowly and is flexible after curing. Hot paints like lacquer and true acrylics are hot paints and can cause a cold paint to crack and crinkle.

Caz

[Chuck1945]

Enamels over acrylics present no problem, as you are shooting a cold paint over a hot paint. However, always test when shooting acrylic over enamel. Enamel is a cold paint and dries slowly and is flexible after curing. Hot paints like lacquer and true acrylics are hot paints and can cause a cold paint to crack and crinkle.

Caz

Some model acrylic paints really are not true acrylics, so the hot-cold thing may not be relevant.

The general rule I have seen suggested is enamel can be applied over lacquers, and acrylics over either.

Model acrylics dry to the touch rather quickly, faster then enamels, but complete drying can take longer. Gunze is one of the slower drying acrylics. One of the problems that seems to occur with Future (a true acrylic) over Gunze is when the Future is applied before the Gunze is thoroughly dry, and cracking results. The bigger issue is not whether a paint is hot or cold, however that may be defined, but rather the solvents used when applying the paints. The various thinners that are used with enamels may cause damage to model acrylics. That is one reason Future is often recommended as a barrier coat between the so called acrylics and either enamels or lacquers. Future is a true acrylic and is usually impervious to enamel or lacquer thinners, at least in the amounts used during spraying a top coat.

All that said, the best suggestion is, as others have already said, test first. I have been using PS clear flat as a final coat on my models for almost ten years now, and have never had a problem - I normally paint with Gunze, Tamiya, and PS paints.

[SCOUT712]

Thanks guys !

I guess I'll give it a try.

SCOUT

[FlyingSnowmew]

Polyscale is an acrylic. Do you mean Floquil?

[madmike]

Rule of painting order is LEA

That is; Lacquer, Enamel and Acrylics.

You can mix the order, say a enamel over acrylic, but test first and mist coat the paint, building up layers slowly so that the "hotter" carrier of the enamel does not affect the acrylic paintwork you are spraying over.

Be exceptionally careful with lacquer based paints like Tamiya spray cans as too heavy a coat will destroy enamel and acrylic undercoats. I have seen it happen and it is not pretty. Peels them off like a banana skin.

Acrylics do cure the fastest. If spraying over enamels or lacquer based paints with acrylics, make sure that the paint is completely cured as the acrylic will crack as the underlying paint cures.

Polyscale, Vallejo and Citadel paints are true acrylic paints whereby Tamiya is not a "true acrylic" though it can be thinned with water, it is recommended that Tamiya acrylics are thinned with Tamiya thinner, methylated spirits or surgical spirits.

The important thing is to let your coats cure thoroughly before moving on to the next colour or coat. Acrylics dry really quickly but still need to cure properly while enamels cure slower and oils even slower than that. Lacquer paints such as Tamiya sprays or car paints take much longer to cure and some lacquers designed for application on cars can melt plastic if applied too heavily.

Test your combinations first on a paint mule so you can ascertain results and potential areas of concern.

:P

MikeJ

Edit: fixed a faux pas

Edited July 8, 2007 by madmike

[Big Kev]

some car based lacquers can melt plastic if applied too heavily.

So they're making lacquer paints out of cars now? Whodathunk it! :blink:

Post number 100 for me!

:P

Kev