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About redruffensore

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    Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!)
  • Birthday 11/03/1946

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  • Location
    Ringgold, VA, USA
  1. Man, that is so wrong! If that shows up, I'm going gay! :D See you guys at the Nats, but I am afraid because of the economy (at least mine), it will be an abbreviated stay Friday and Saturday like I did in '96. Not so much the gas as the ridiculous room rates, I'd pay the same for gas whether I went for two or four days. So I'll miss Two Bobs, but will try to touch bases with as many as possible and maybe make the ARC gathering Saturday night. Caz
  2. It's done, fini, throw away the box! I'm done too. Anyone really want some karma, rig a DeHavilland or Sopwith! There are 30 pieces of invisible thread here, inserted or attached to 60 holes or posts. Some may ask why I said building a biplane is a physical exercise, try it. Your body will ache in more places than you ever dreamed from the Japanese body arrangement one has to do to get to certain places for the thread and small parts. Today, out of the 30 threads attached, I bet I lost 12 to 15. Three broke (one twice) after I had them attached and cut. I had to build two new rigging eyelet
  3. Yesterday: I need to stick some tape belts to the seat, but the fuselage halves are going together. Paints used are Polly Scale: Dirty White, British Medium Sea Grey; MMAcryl: Wood, Leather, Burnt Sienna, all clear coats. Weathering was done with powdered pastels before the final clear flat. I had to narrow the channel at the rear of the upper combing, it was far too wide when dry fit. I'll still have to trim to fit in the rear of the guns as it juts out too far. Today: I have been a busy boy today and got the Strutter's fuselage and top decking on, cut, filled, sanded, and rescribed as n
  4. Here's the answer to all your problems. You'll probably never use CA on models again. Gator Glue Caz
  5. No back cushion, usually just a simple deep-seat aluminum bucket, deep seated because the pilot sit on his parachute, that was his cushion. No shoulder harness either, only lap belts. Yes, they had hand holds, which could double as tie-downs in an emergency. Caz
  6. You mean F4F-3 (Hard Wing, did not fold) Wildcat. If you have access to Model Master, use Chrome Yellow (FS:13538). Humbrol and XtraCrylics also makes this colour. Note from an experienced modeler, when any shade of Yellow is called for, one is best to prime with a coat of good white first. White works almost as well as black when used as a primer for silver or natural metal finishes too. As a rule, some early Wildcats had silver fuselages, but most all production F3F-3s had fuselages painted in Light Gray (sometimes called Silver-Gray, FS:16622). This paint was a high gloss paint. The un
  7. That's right, none of you do figures, so this is moot I guess! Anyhow, I wanted to give a little short tut on how I do it. It's real hard to align the arms to the control stick/wheel, throttle, etc. with nothing but a slick mount on each. I drill 0.017-in, #79 bit, to accept wire of the same size. Drill through the arms and CA a piece of wire to each, leave enough on one side to handle and manipulate and enough on the other side to give a good join to the figure. Mark and drill a hole in the figure for each arm and test fit. After doing so, I fit the figure in the seat and pit and manipulat
  8. Sure did Ross. Filled and sanded all the depressions (if that's what you mean) with Mr. Surfacer. Sanded away the overly done raised detail too. Molding is correct in the shape of the wings. They were two-piece affairs, joined where the braced struts are located. Caz
  9. This is a tried and true real-time "Commie" kit, the K-P (aka Kopro) BH-3, molded before the wall came down. The pilot is a PJ Production resin figure. I scratch-built the exhausts from 0.040-in styrene rod. Prop mount to plane on two sizes of brass rod, Paints used are Polly Scale Dark Italian Olive, US Khaki, Early Israeli Tan, and Russian Underside Blue (lightened with Reefer White). Decals printed by a man who ruined the hobby, checks in the mail mate, got 'em late Tuesday afternoon, and just was so bananas to finish the kit. I used Microscale Trim Film White in lieu of Miike's under
  10. Good job Lucien, The Marquette kit is much more difficult than ICM's and harder to get the result you achieved. I have both, but when time comes to build one, I'll take the ICM and use the Marquette for spares maybe. Caz
  11. Reading glasses are cheaper, come in a variety of magnification and nowhere near the hassle of modeler's binoculars.. I've used reading glasses since 1990, never will use another pair of modeling binoculars. Caz
  12. Not that it'll be of any help, but here is a profile from the Wings Palette. Slovak insurgent B-534 profile Lots of good profiles found at this site. I use it for Repaints I do for FS2004. WINGS PALETTE Caz
  13. Enamels over acrylics present no problem, as you are shooting a cold paint over a hot paint. However, always test when shooting acrylic over enamel. Enamel is a cold paint and dries slowly and is flexible after curing. Hot paints like lacquer and true acrylics are hot paints and can cause a cold paint to crack and crinkle. Caz
  14. Diego, At the store you purchased your Model Master Acryl paint, there should be a product by Model Master called "Acryl Diluant Thinner Acryl". It is the best thinner I have found for MM or any acrylic paint. It contains glycerin, which helps retard acrylic drying at the airbrush tip. Also, you do not mention the air pressure you are using. For acrylics, never use over 15 psi, they shoot even better if thinned to at 10 -12 psi. Hope this helps, Caz
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