Jump to content
ARC Discussion Forums


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About redruffensore

  • Rank
    Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!)
  • Birthday 11/03/1946

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Location
    Ringgold, VA, USA
  1. Man, that is so wrong! If that shows up, I'm going gay! :D See you guys at the Nats, but I am afraid because of the economy (at least mine), it will be an abbreviated stay Friday and Saturday like I did in '96. Not so much the gas as the ridiculous room rates, I'd pay the same for gas whether I went for two or four days. So I'll miss Two Bobs, but will try to touch bases with as many as possible and maybe make the ARC gathering Saturday night. Caz
  2. It's done, fini, throw away the box! I'm done too. Anyone really want some karma, rig a DeHavilland or Sopwith! There are 30 pieces of invisible thread here, inserted or attached to 60 holes or posts. Some may ask why I said building a biplane is a physical exercise, try it. Your body will ache in more places than you ever dreamed from the Japanese body arrangement one has to do to get to certain places for the thread and small parts. Today, out of the 30 threads attached, I bet I lost 12 to 15. Three broke (one twice) after I had them attached and cut. I had to build two new rigging eyelets. But I persevered, I hung in there, I fought the bear and I clawed the bear more than the bear clawed me. I cussed (loudly), sure the neighbors heard me once. This Sopwith Strutter represents a Sopwith 1 1/2 Strutter of No. 3 Wing, RNAS It was delivered to No. 3 Wing in May 1916 and assigned to FSL Raymond Collishaw. On November 10, 1916 Collishaw received his first of 70 victories in this Strutter, downing a Fokker E.III during a raid on Oberndorf. Caz For any of interest in comparisons, here are two shots of the beginning and the end, the first Sopwith fighter of WW I and the last Sopwith fighter of WW I. It is not only a nice comparison in the development of the fighter from early to mid 1916 to the end of the war, but it shows the different in the brown PC 10 Drab and the darker green PC12 Drab. It also shows the difference in the blue of the roundels used by the RFC in 1926 and that of the RAF of 1918.
  3. Yesterday: I need to stick some tape belts to the seat, but the fuselage halves are going together. Paints used are Polly Scale: Dirty White, British Medium Sea Grey; MMAcryl: Wood, Leather, Burnt Sienna, all clear coats. Weathering was done with powdered pastels before the final clear flat. I had to narrow the channel at the rear of the upper combing, it was far too wide when dry fit. I'll still have to trim to fit in the rear of the guns as it juts out too far. Today: I have been a busy boy today and got the Strutter's fuselage and top decking on, cut, filled, sanded, and rescribed as needed. I pre-painted the leather cockpit combing, it shall be for the most past masked. The engine firewall has been painted black and will be shot in Aluminum tomorrow. The engine is for the most part painted. I shall mask the front on the cylinders and spray the front cover in a Dark Aluminum. Gun is sit in place, but unpainted yet. I have prepared a windscreen from a Waldron-punched disk of clear styrene to be attached to the rear of the Vickers. One can also see that my panel did OK. As you can see by the tap fit, the cowling looks fine, there are a few steps I shall have to blend in, but it's not much. Lower wings are attached and aligned. I need to clean a few places, then mark and cut a place for the Strutter's speed brake control. I also need to drill placement holes for the landing gear struts, as well as the rear strut. Placement of the upper wing is going to be tricky when time comes, wish me luck. Caz
  4. Here's the answer to all your problems. You'll probably never use CA on models again. Gator Glue Caz
  5. No back cushion, usually just a simple deep-seat aluminum bucket, deep seated because the pilot sit on his parachute, that was his cushion. No shoulder harness either, only lap belts. Yes, they had hand holds, which could double as tie-downs in an emergency. Caz
  6. You mean F4F-3 (Hard Wing, did not fold) Wildcat. If you have access to Model Master, use Chrome Yellow (FS:13538). Humbrol and XtraCrylics also makes this colour. Note from an experienced modeler, when any shade of Yellow is called for, one is best to prime with a coat of good white first. White works almost as well as black when used as a primer for silver or natural metal finishes too. As a rule, some early Wildcats had silver fuselages, but most all production F3F-3s had fuselages painted in Light Gray (sometimes called Silver-Gray, FS:16622). This paint was a high gloss paint. The undersides of the wings were in bright Aluminum Lacquer. Note how the Chrome-Yellow wraps around the leading edge and the forward part of the underside. Caz
  7. That's right, none of you do figures, so this is moot I guess! Anyhow, I wanted to give a little short tut on how I do it. It's real hard to align the arms to the control stick/wheel, throttle, etc. with nothing but a slick mount on each. I drill 0.017-in, #79 bit, to accept wire of the same size. Drill through the arms and CA a piece of wire to each, leave enough on one side to handle and manipulate and enough on the other side to give a good join to the figure. Mark and drill a hole in the figure for each arm and test fit. After doing so, I fit the figure in the seat and pit and manipulate the arms to a position I like before CAing in place. Once done, cut the excess wire, it's easy. Note: O² mask and hose were cut before CAing the arms. Caz
  8. Sure did Ross. Filled and sanded all the depressions (if that's what you mean) with Mr. Surfacer. Sanded away the overly done raised detail too. Molding is correct in the shape of the wings. They were two-piece affairs, joined where the braced struts are located. Caz
  9. This is a tried and true real-time "Commie" kit, the K-P (aka Kopro) BH-3, molded before the wall came down. The pilot is a PJ Production resin figure. I scratch-built the exhausts from 0.040-in styrene rod. Prop mount to plane on two sizes of brass rod, Paints used are Polly Scale Dark Italian Olive, US Khaki, Early Israeli Tan, and Russian Underside Blue (lightened with Reefer White). Decals printed by a man who ruined the hobby, checks in the mail mate, got 'em late Tuesday afternoon, and just was so bananas to finish the kit. I used Microscale Trim Film White in lieu of Miike's under the decals as it was a bit stronger and more opaque. But Mike's stickers made the model, kit's were useless. Canopy is pressed formed, charging handles are fine wire. Rudder horns are fine wire with invisible thread control wiring. Machine guns are the kits, I drilled out the openings. Lots of mods to the landing gear, including making bras rod axles. I used small wire to facilitate attachment. Wire was used to replace wing attachments too, as the wing attachments were too large and the holes too big. The attachment holes on the fuselage were plugged with styrene rod and redrilled to accept the wire replacements. This is much more my milieu than WW II and Modern Era. I'm a rag and wood man. Actual plane first flew in 1921, but the prototype was unarmed. Production BH-3s had two 0.303-in machine gins and a BMW engine of 200 HP. Production aircraft feature the larger oil cooler bulge seen on the model (I did mine from a left over bomb rack) and a larger windshield. Caz
  10. Good job Lucien, The Marquette kit is much more difficult than ICM's and harder to get the result you achieved. I have both, but when time comes to build one, I'll take the ICM and use the Marquette for spares maybe. Caz
  11. Reading glasses are cheaper, come in a variety of magnification and nowhere near the hassle of modeler's binoculars.. I've used reading glasses since 1990, never will use another pair of modeling binoculars. Caz
  12. Not that it'll be of any help, but here is a profile from the Wings Palette. Slovak insurgent B-534 profile Lots of good profiles found at this site. I use it for Repaints I do for FS2004. WINGS PALETTE Caz
  13. Enamels over acrylics present no problem, as you are shooting a cold paint over a hot paint. However, always test when shooting acrylic over enamel. Enamel is a cold paint and dries slowly and is flexible after curing. Hot paints like lacquer and true acrylics are hot paints and can cause a cold paint to crack and crinkle. Caz
  14. Diego, At the store you purchased your Model Master Acryl paint, there should be a product by Model Master called "Acryl Diluant Thinner Acryl". It is the best thinner I have found for MM or any acrylic paint. It contains glycerin, which helps retard acrylic drying at the airbrush tip. Also, you do not mention the air pressure you are using. For acrylics, never use over 15 psi, they shoot even better if thinned to at 10 -12 psi. Hope this helps, Caz
  • Create New...