Airbrushing, paints and model glues.....

[Skyraider Maniac]

Hello all, I'm new on here, and have just got back into building models this past year after a 8 year break. As such, the realm of very good detailing is new to me. As well as modelling forums such as this (never knew stuff like this existed, this seems pretty helpful already from what i've seen). So needless to say, my modelling skills are pretty basic. I've seen pictures and have learned that there is tons more I could do to my models than what i'm doing now. So far, my painting experience has been brush and spray can only - and Testor's Model Master at that. I also only use the Testor's plastic cement that comes in the red tube. Thats the stuff I use regularly, but I understand now that there's a lot more out there than testor's, so I'm searching for ways to improve. i'll break my questions down by issues.

First: Airbrushes. I've never used one, but I want to; so I don't understand the difference between single and double action and anything else about them for that matter. For example, can one use acryilic paint and enamel paint with the same airbrush/nozzle? What works best with both? What would be ideal for doing detailed work? Should I go single or double action? and what are the pro's and con's between the two? Is there anything specific I should look out for, and how can I stay affordable. Any particular brand or model that works best?

Second: Paints. As stated, I use Testors Model Master paints, which I find pretty good for the most part, but that they can be a pain at times. Is the arcyillic better for color accuracy, or the enamel? I'm working on a diorama of a static display for my wife of the aircraft that have been stationed at her airbase (I'm doing a 1/48 scale static display of the bases' own Static display/aircraft park). So ideally I want to be as accurate as possible. What are some ideas on paints that are best for proper color?

Third: Glue. What the best types of glue to use when working on models? I use the Testor's Model Cement in the red tube, but i find that it doesn't work well with different types of sprue/plastic/resin (really doesn't work well with Academy models for some reason - seems there's some sort of chemical reaction that ruins the bond and makes the plastic turn into some sort of elastic material that takes forever to dry). I've seen bottles of glue, but do I use a paintbrush to apply the cement? I'm sort of at a loss - I don't want to ruin any more models by using this glue seeing as it has a tendancy to eat certain types of model plastic; what can be recomended?

And finally: Fourth! Decals. I want the decals to look realistic, not just look like they were slapped on the side and apparently not painted. I've heard of decal solution that actually bonds the decal to the model which makes it seem "painted" and gets rid of the thin sheet of film that gives it away as a decal. So on that note, what works best and what are some ways to make it look really authentic?

I am all ears and eagerly waiting to learn whats best, Thanks!

Justin

[MattC]

Those are some big questions my friend, and I would point you towards the search button up in the top right hand corner, all these have been asked many times, and there are a lot of different answers and points of view.

Some basic answers;

If you are just getting back into modelling, and you describe your skills as basic, then I would be tempted to stick with brush painting for now and concentrate on getting the basic building bits right. You can get a decent finish with a brush if you're careful.

I don't know a lot about airbrushes, having only just got one myself, but as I understand it, a single action airbrush has a trigger which when depressed, supplies a flow of paint and air simultaneously, whereas on a dual action airbrush, the trigger operates in two ways, first, by depressing it, this allows air to flow without paint, then pulling back starts the paint flow.

The advantage of dual action is that you can minutely control the flow of paint without affecting the flow of air. But I don't know how much advantage that confers, especially for a beginner.

Again, check the forums and search the net, there are TONS of references and discussions about airbrushing.

Paints - Again a big can of worms, and some people will swear by one brand, others by another. I would suggest trying a few brands to see which you are most comfortable using. I would suggest Humbrol enamels for brush painting, on the basis that they go down really nicely with a brush, but others will have their own opinion.

As far as accuracy is concerned, there is no real difference between enamel and acrylic, neither is more "accurate" than the other. Accuracy in absolute terms is difficult to measure, and to be honest, the best judge is your eye. If it looks right to you, then it probably is more or less right. A lot of references, photo's and the like are bad to judge by, due to light, camera, angle, season variations.

Bear in mind with your static display park diorama, if those aircraft are sat outside in all weathers, they are probably faded or weathered, and a lot of the time, static exhibits and gate guards are not painted in "proper" colours, they just get a "once over" with whatever is to hand.

It would be better to ask for specific examples to be honest, so, if you need a match for a particular colour, ask for that. You will end up with a variety of answers, I warn you, my advice, find a brand you are happy with, and ask for the closest match in that brand, or be prepared to mix your own.

Glue - I wouldn't even bother with tube glue to be honest. Your issue with academy kits sounds to me like you are using too much glue. Remember "glue" for plastic kits isn't "glue" in the normal sense, it is a "hot" agent which slightly melts the mating surfaces and bonds them. I would suggest something like Contacta Pro, Humbrol Liquid Poly or any other liquid glue, either with a brush or applicator needle. Forget the squeezy tubes.

I'm sort of at a loss - I don't want to ruin any more models by using this glue seeing as it has a tendancy to eat certain types of model plastic; what can be recomended

Thats what its meant to do, thats how the bond works, but if you put too much on, it will eat away too much. Thinner liquid glue is more controllable, you really don't need a lot, just a really thin smear on one or both surfaces is fine.

Decals - The trick to decals is to get a decent finish to apply them over. What happens is that if you apply the decals over a matt finish, tiny air bubbles get trapped between the decal and the roughness of the matt finish (even if it feels smooth) which causes "silvering", making the decals look reflective and the carrier film edges rather obvious. Decal solvents and setting solutions don't get rid of it, softeners like Solvaset etc soften the decal so that it conforms to surface details and compound curves more easily. Setting solutions act as a "grip" for the decals to help them bed down onto the surface. To be fair, I wouldn't worry about setters and softeners, concentrate on getting a decent finish for the decals to go onto, here's a basic run down;

1 - Sand model all over with fine paper - maybe 1000 - 1200 grit, just a soft sanding to give a key for the primer.

2 - Give the model a coat of primer (or just any light grey paint will do) in a nice thin coat, this helps the top coat to "stick"

3 - Paint the top coat, using thinned paint. 2 or 3 or even more thin coats is better than one thick one, so be patient, let each layer dry and then apply another.

4 - Give the whole model a coat of gloss coat

5 - Allow to dry for about 2 or 3 days (keep under cover to keep the dust off)

6 - Apply decals as above, be sure to leave them in the water long enough for them to slide easily, and let them sit for a few seconds after removing them from the water before attempting to slide them off, this helps them to soften.

7 - Apply decals and "blot" with tissue paper, and air bubbles should be pushed out from under the decals with a wet finger - gently

8 - Let the decals settle overnight

9 - Brush on a satin/gloss/matt finish, depending on your preference

That my 2 cents, for what they are worth. For now, I would suggest concentrating on building basic skills back up again, get some models under your belt and then think about refining your techniques.

Anyway, welcome to ARC, what I would also suggest is that you take some time to look through the forums, look at the tools and tips section on the main ARCAIR page, and then see how you get on. These forums work best if you have a specific enquiry, as general enquiries are often covered in so many other topics, that people can't really answer without writing you a book on modelling techniques.

So, have fun, enjoy, welcome to the family. We're all here to help each other, so don't be afraid to ask questions, just, try to keep them as specific as you can, that way, we can give you more specific, and thus more useful, advice.

Cheers

Matt

[David Walker]

And welcome to ARC!

[skyhawk55]

Justin, Welcome back to modeling and to ARC.

You'll find some very good info here on this site to help you progress in your skills.

I'm like you... I decided to get back into modeling aircraft after a long, long time off.

Seems like I had a lot more free time after my kids grew up and started to leave the nest.

I find that the forums are great because if you have a question, you can post it and usually get a quick answer. And don't forget sometimes it comes with some humor.

Good luck in your efforts.

B.Hunter

[Chuck1945]

Bleh, I had a long reply and lost it.

Welcome!

Visit you local hobby shop and look for a liquid glue. My preference is the Tamiya brand Extra Thin.

A single action airbrush refers to the trigger only doing one thing, adjusting the air flow. You have to use a separate conrol for paint flow. As Matt said, a double action brush is one where the trigger will control both air and paint flow. A single action is probably easier to learn to use, but once mastered, the dual control of a double action is probably more convenient to use.

Edited March 8, 2009 by Chuck1945

[Skyraider Maniac]

First off, thanks for the warm reception! I'm glad to be a part of this group. Secondly, Wow! A lot of good information, I'll certainly take it to heart; I appreciate it!

Thanks Fellas',

Justin

[caudleryan]

I'll second with what Matt said about the decals. Might I add another useful tip for getting a good glosscoat? I suggest using Future as a glosscoat.

on your models. It is an acrylic floor polish that you can buy at Wal-Mart. You can brush it on or airbrush it. It works wonders for making decals snuggle down

into all of the recesses. It's very easy to use. You can find it in the floor finishing aisle. It is called Pledge with Future now, but still available.

RYAN.

[Skyraider Maniac]

I'll second with what Matt said about the decals. Might I add another useful tip for getting a good glosscoat? I suggest using Future as a glosscoat.

on your models. It is an acrylic floor polish that you can buy at Wal-Mart. You can brush it on or airbrush it. It works wonders for making decals snuggle down

into all of the recesses. It's very easy to use. You can find it in the floor finishing aisle. It is called Pledge with Future now, but still available.

RYAN.

Ryan,

that's an interesting and useful tip! Could you expand a little more on it? Do I apply it before or after the decals? and is there any buffing to be done as well? just curious :)

Thanks!,

Justin

[David Walker]

You apply it before the decals (it can be brushed or airbrushed on with no thinning required) and it will really help avoid silvering of the decals. (from small air pockets between the decals and the "rough" dull surface if a gloss coat is not used) Future has exceptional self-leveling properties so buffing is not required, but it can be done if you really want to. As far as the "process" goes, quite a few of us will paint the model, gloss coat it, apply the decals, hit it with another coat of gloss to seal the decals, use some form of a wash to weather the model and then finish it off with a dull coat. It seems like a lot of work but it really makes for good results. And here's a great primer on the use of Future:

http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

In fact, this whole area of Swanny's site with probably be invaluable to you:

http://www.swannysmodels.com/Tools.html

Edited March 11, 2009 by David Walker

[Skyraider Maniac]

You apply it before the decals (it can be brushed or airbrushed on with no thinning required) and it will really help avoid silvering of the decals. (from small air pockets between the decals and the "rough" dull surface if a gloss coat is not used) Future has exceptional self-leveling properties so buffing is not required, but it can be done if you really want to. As far as the "process" goes, quite a few of us will paint the model, gloss coat it, apply the decals, hit it with another coat of gloss to seal the decals, use some form of a wash to weather the model and then finish it off with a dull coat. It seems like a lot of work but it really makes for good results. And here's a great primer on the use of Future:

http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

In fact, this whole area of Swanny's site with probably be invaluable to you:

http://www.swannysmodels.com/Tools.html

Thats really useful, thanks - it sure helps, both the information and both websites. GRACIAS! ;)

Justin

[Atlant]

Justin, as Chuck1945 said - visit your local hobby shop. Usually modellers tend to gather there and talk about tools and techniques used.

If you live in Atlanta area - you are welcome to our monthly meetings in Cumming.

Welcome to ARC and modeling!

[airplane88]

Welcome to ARC Justin! I too am fairly new here too. But, I have learned sooooooo much from browsing through these forums, that I have noticed an incredible difference in my latest work. I too had about an 8 year break, and I was amazed at such details many on these forums are able to produce. I finally bought myself an airbrush kit, and took tons of practice before doing it on my first build attempt. I will admit, I had to strip the model of paint several times, and found it very frustrating. The main thing I learned is, patience. I thought my model had to be done in a day, and that is the furthest thing from the truth. Now, I take my time, and find myself taking a week or longer to finish my model build. I get about an hour a day to my hobby, and it is just a nice relief for me I guess. Weekends are the only time I can dedicate enough hours to building, and that is when I am able to get the nitty gritty done.

If you decide to get an airbrush, read up on the tools and techniques. Practice like crazy on things that you don't plan on displaying. And if your married, be careful not to douse her plants in paint! LOL!

Seriously, welcome! Tons of great people on here that are more than helpful when you have a problem. Dive in, the water is fine!

This is the airbrush kit I bought on ebay. Yeah, it is not the latest and best thing out there, but it sure does get the job done. When I get my airbrush skills better, I will invest into something more flashy. Money is tight, and I just thought this would serve its purpose.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Beginner-Starter-DUAL-...93%3A2|294%3A50

It is dual action. Which means, if you just press down on the button, it will not spray any paint, just air. If you push the button down, and pull it back, it will spray paint. The air only is great, as I will sometimes use it to help the drying process of the fresh paint I just applied.

I just bought this stuff to finish my Eastern Airlines 757. Two words come to mind after I applied it. HOLY SHEEET!!!!! Pretty cool stuff, and it is just amazing how it comes out! It is incredible how realistic it makes the plane look when your trying to make it look aluminum.

http://www.hawkeyeshobbies.com/nmf-polishing-powders.htm

Edited March 11, 2009 by airplane88