Mr Sworld Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 I'm in a quandary..... Has anyone used the FSS-6 Modeler's Scissor from xuron? I'm looking at buying their TK-2100 tool kit which has the 410T high precision shear, 450 tweezernose pliers and the FSS-6 scissors. HERE. However the scissors look a little too big for delicate PE, surely their 440 PET high precision shear (HERE.) would be better for the teeny weenie PE? Thanks, Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris L Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 I'm in a quandary..... Has anyone used the FSS-6 Modeler's Scissor from xuron? I'm looking at buying their TK-2100 tool kit which has the 410T high precision shear, 450 tweezernose pliers and the FSS-6 scissors. HERE.However the scissors look a little too big for delicate PE, surely their 440 PET high precision shear (HERE.) would be better for the teeny weenie PE? Thanks, Mike Hi Mike I have been using the Xuron 440 for about a year now, and everything I build is very small. I am very happy with that item. Cheers, Christian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rick in Maine Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 I use both. On a big fret, the scissors are helpful to get some of the fret trimmed away and cutting some larger parts. The shears make more sense for me on the smaller stuff. I've also used shears, gently, to help on small folds. Rick in Maine Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bails Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 For teeny-weeny p/e, and all p/e, I use narrow, slightly curved cuticle scissors purchased at favorite discount stores. The slight curve enables you to get super close to the p/e fret, eliminating 99.9% to 100% of the bothersome little nub left on the p/e item. Bails Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Sworld Posted June 4, 2009 Author Share Posted June 4, 2009 Thanks guys! I have also been advised to stick with a sharp scalpel and a sheet of glass (which is a lot cheaper! ) so I'm going to have to mull this over as xuron snips are expensive over here in the UK.... Thanks for the advice however, it all helps! Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Huey Gunner Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 For teeny-weeny p/e, and all p/e, I use narrow, slightly curved cuticle scissors purchased at favorite discount stores. The slight curve enables you to get super close to the p/e fret, eliminating 99.9% to 100% of the bothersome little nub left on the p/e item. Bails Have a pair. Great for small parts.These. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hawkeye's Hobbies Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 I've been using the shear for years. Visit my blog, I discuss the tools necessary for working with PE. Part I Part II Part III Quote Link to post Share on other sites
geedubelyer Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 Thanks guys! I have also been advised to stick with a sharp scalpel and a sheet of glass (which is a lot cheaper! :)) so I'm going to have to mull this over as xuron snips are expensive over here in the UK....Thanks for the advice however, it all helps! :) Mike Hi Mike, I imagine that the shears/snips will be very useful at times but until they arrive, try using a curved scalpel/knife blade and roll the blade over the PE tree with toughened glass or polished stone (like marble) as a backing. The hard surface reduces the amount of bending as you cut the PE part off the tree and the rolling motion gives better control and minimises the chance of the tiny metal part pinging off into the ether never to be seen again..... Remember to cut as close as possible to the part because cleaning up the excess tabs on these tiny etched pieces is difficult at best. HTH :lol: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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