VA-115EFR Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 Hey all! After a 15 year hiatus, I'm getting the itch to model again. Remembering the nightmares I had dealing with "fish-eyes" and other sorts of paint separation, I would like to know what sort of prep work I need to do to the plastic before I actually paint in enamel or acrylic, such as washing the plastic and priming, etc. BTW, would it be better to paint in enamel or acrylic (airbrushing)? I am awed by the work I've seen in the galleries here, and hope I can someday achieve those levels of perfection!!! B) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dragonfly Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 I'm sure most here will agree to clean the plastic prior to painting. There are several ways of doing that...alcohol wipe, PS plastic prep solution, Simple Green, and what works for me, Dawn dishwashing soap. Dawn doesn't appear to have skin additives and rinses clean. Enamels bond better than acrylics, but if the plastic is clean you shouldn't have a problem, although I would use a bonding primer under acrylics just for peace of mind. Jerry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bails Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 Many folks have serious issues with acrylics through the airbrush. Successful acrylic users will disagree on that, however you will probably have a better chance at more immediate success and enjoyment if you use enamels. Enamel users generally come down on the side of about a 50-50 ratio of thinner and paint (ala skim milk). As regards the "best" thinner to use, there are at least 3 camps.....(1) use only the hobby paint manufacturers' thinners (the most expensive way to go, not necessarily the best)......(2) mineral spirits......(3) lacquer thinner. Personally, over 40 years of airbrushing, I've used them all. About 10 years ago I came down 100% on the side of a high quality lacquer thinner purchased at an automotive paint store. I've tried two offerings and settled on PPG DT 885 Reducer. This stuff costs about $28 per gallon, which is far, far, cheaper by ounce than the hobby paint mfgr. thinners. A gallon lasts a long, long time. Once I've thinned the paint, I add a few drops of Artists' Painting Medium by Winsor & Newton (from Hobby Lobby or an artists' supply store). This stuff helps to improve the flow of paint through the a/b, preventing any clogging at the tip. For cleanup of the a/b and general cleanup, use the cheapest mineral spirits you can find (some are odorless and cost a bit more). Finally, by all means do plenty of testing/trying on cardboard and some bare plastic (NOT from a model) before you apply paint to your newest masterpiece. And always remember, using the airbrush is a combination of science and art.....but mostly art. Realize that no matter how good you think you are at it, you will have goofs and gaffs. Its the nature of the beast. Be patient. Have fun. Peace, Bails-In-Minnesota Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Britaholic Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 (edited) I use enamels, normally WEM Colourcoats or Xtracolor and I just make sure that the surface is clean and smooth using a nail buffer or micromesh, a quick flick with a lens cleaner cloth and break out the airbrush. I only use an undercoat if there are different mediums in the model, for example a model with a mix of plastic ,resin, and etch. Cheers Den Edited January 31, 2011 by Britaholic Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Triarius Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 The first thing to remember about acrylics is that they are not enamels, and have different requirements for successful use. They must be applied to a clean surface—which is not a bad habit for enamels, either, and is required regardless of paint for a bare metal paint scheme. The second thing to remember is that they dry quickly, but cure slowly, and do not attain full adhesion until fully cured. I never prime for adhesion, only for surface defect detection (rarely) and if needed under a particular color, such as white, yellow, orange, and any other that has poor hide. Good quality acrylics have adhesion as good or better than enamels if applied and cured properly. Portions of the camouflage on my hunting bow are Tamiya acrylics. After years of brush busting, they show no wear. The first thing to remember about enamels is that they may soon go the way of the dinosaurs, thanks to VOC requirements and increasing cost of manufacture. The second is that they are significantly more toxic than most acrylics. Note that acrylics are not necessarily non-toxic in a real sense, only in an advertising sense. The third thing to remember is that they are much harder to clean up. Acrylics can be cleaned in the sink. Enamels have to be cleaned in the spray booth or outside. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
VA-115EFR Posted January 31, 2011 Author Share Posted January 31, 2011 (edited) Thanks for the info guys! Extremely helpful. I've heard that more and more people are switching to acrylics because they are easier clean up and not as volatile as enamels. The project i'm working on now will be painted with enamels. I may try my next project in acrylics. Thanks again guys!! Edited January 31, 2011 by VA-115EFR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bails Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 Make sure you use a quality respirator when airbrushing either enamels or acrylics. Bails Quote Link to post Share on other sites
robw_uk Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 I use enamels (Humbrol for the main) and no primer.... have had no issues with paint adhesion.. in my latest build I thought I would use a primer (I had to put a gloss black undercoat for the silver so was a bti concerned, but just used a normal grey enamel paint (Humbrol) - probably not the best but it worked....... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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