TomcatFanatic123 Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 (edited) Just filled a seam in my current project that turned out a bit bigger than I thought it would be (after I filled the seam, I decided that I probably should've jammed a thin styrene shim in there to be a bit safer, but I got lazy ). The putty (Bondo red spot glazing putty...I :) that stuff, it works like a charm) dried perfectly and I sanded it and the seam looks good, but I'm afraid over time that the joint WILL begin to crack. Can I reinforce it by brushing some CA glue on the seam (over the sanded putty), let it dry and sand it, or will that ruin the surface for painting? Edited February 16, 2011 by TomcatFanatic123 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Netz Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 It won't hurt, but I really don't think it will strengthen the joint. I don't care for the red putty it's a bit too porous, and soft, ca over the putty will help to seal it, but it's much better and less work to get a putty made for plastic. I think you have all your answers, you should have done the reinforcing with plastic. Curt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Skii Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 Mix CA glue with Talcum powder for an ideal filler. It looks like 'gentlemens relish' but don't let that put you off, it makes a really good filler :) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
drhornii Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 I like to use two part epoxy like the Tamiya stuff. It is somewhat strong and sands ok. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Grey Ghost 531 Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 CA has poor shear strength. It's not a good reinforcement for a gap that is going to be under stress. Sanding something like a fuselage seam imparts shear force to that joint and a CA bond is more likely to fail. It sucks to see the seam crack after there's paint on the model! I always use plastic card or stretched sprue and liquid cement to fill any gaps. CA will fill the uneveness fine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
robtmelvin Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 I've used Apoxie Sculpt for filling larger seams that need to have some strength and the stuff works great. If you aren't familiar with it, its a two part putty that has a very plastic consistency, works easily, especially with a little water on your fingers, and has a long work time of up to three hours. The only down side is that it takes about 24 hours to cure out fully, but when it does it's hard as as rock. I've never noticed any shrinkage with time either. Just Google it and you can find a distributor. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
balls47 Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 If you can still get to the inside of your seam, use some plastic cement and cement some pieces of sprue on the inside of the joint so the sprue is cemented to both sides of the joint. You could also run some two part epoxy glue along the inside of the seam. Just be careful with the epoxy, because it can really make a big mess. The last (and least) choice would be to run a bead of CA along the inside of the joint and if you know it won't run, let it set without accelerator. If you think it will run, give it a shot of accelerator. I guess my bottom line is that if you are satisfied with the outside, stiffen it up on the inside if you are able. Good Luck. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TomcatFanatic123 Posted February 17, 2011 Author Share Posted February 17, 2011 Mix CA glue with Talcum powder for an ideal filler. It looks like 'gentlemens relish' but don't let that put you off, it makes a really good filler I can honestly say I've never heard, um, 'it', called "gentlemen's relish" . If you can still get to the inside of your seam, use some plastic cement and cement some pieces of sprue on the inside of the joint so the sprue is cemented to both sides of the joint. You could also run some two part epoxy glue along the inside of the seam. Just be careful with the epoxy, because it can really make a big mess. The last (and least) choice would be to run a bead of CA along the inside of the joint and if you know it won't run, let it set without accelerator. If you think it will run, give it a shot of accelerator. I guess my bottom line is that if you are satisfied with the outside, stiffen it up on the inside if you are able. Good Luck. Yeah, I can still get to the inside of the gap, so I'll either hit it with some epoxy or try gluing some scrap sprue in there. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phantom ordie Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 Mix CA glue with Talcum powder for an ideal filler. It looks like 'gentlemens relish' but don't let that put you off, it makes a really good filler :) I tried mixing with some of my wifes body powder and the CA went off as soon as it touched the powder and a p;ume of smoke rose up. What kind of talc do you use? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Grant in West Oz Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 I tried mixing with some of my wifes body powder and the CA went off as soon as it touched the powder and a p;ume of smoke rose up. What kind of talc do you use? Household junk is not right for models. Tender regions, yeah. If you don't have unperfumed powder, get ye to the remote control counter and purchase a small (or large if you build Monogram kits) bottle of microbaloons. Apply glue. Apply microbaloons. Sand. Gently. G Quote Link to post Share on other sites
robtmelvin Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 I tried mixing with some of my wifes body powder and the CA went off as soon as it touched the powder and a p;ume of smoke rose up. What kind of talc do you use? There are a couple of kinds of talc on the market. Not all of them work for that application. I use Johnson's Baby Powder, but be sure and read the label for the ingredients. If it says "talc" you are good to go. If it doesn't say that, I'd pass it by. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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