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rightwinger26

1/48th A Bit O' Lace

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Have you seen this?

I had seen that, but I can never watch it enough, I keep pausing at different spots to get better references. That looks like video of Miss Lace before she recieved tail damage.

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Nice updates and work ..WOW !!! :jaw-dropping::jaw-dropping:

Thanks, we'll see how much I can get done before the Lions game comes on today. I'm not too happy with the windows, there are some gaps that I filled as best I could, but I'm always a little schetchy of filling around them, I just hope that that doesn't detract from the look of the bird when shes done.

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ok, fuselage glued together, starting to look like a plane, not looking forward to cleaning those seams!!! :(

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...

Next item of business, is it me or does the chin turret look grey or is it war beaten nmf like the rest of Miss Lace

...

I'd say NMF, the differing colour due to the way the light falls on, and reflects off, the curved surface. Compare the after portion of the turret with the fuselage adjacent (almost identical) and the front, brightest, part with the panel above the first window and level with the "scoreboard". Others may know more though ...

Edited by MikeC

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so here are the promised picture updates, she's starting to look like the glorious warbird she represents.

100_1667.jpg

100_1666.jpg

100_1665.jpg

So, the next steps are to cut and fit the Cheyenne modification, install, fill and mask the rest of the windows. Then move on and assemble the wings and horizontal stabs, then the unfun task of filling and smoothing out the seams and she'll be getting close. I'm thinking I may build a small base for her and put the squadron patch on one side with a framed picture of the real thing behind it. Thanks for looking.

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No s**t Cheyenne! :) As you guys can see, I got the Verlindin tail mod chopped and installed, I need to fill a little, then finish folding the framework (the Tigers game came on, that takes priority) I'm gonna paint and install the framework seperate, I really don't wanna try to mask with it installed, I see that leading to broken windows.

100_1672.jpg

Thanks for looking. Tomorrow I'm gonna finish the tail, and hopefully paint the inside of the gear bays.

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New pictures, I got the frame folded, I need to do a little tweeking where it meets the plastic. Keep in mind nothing is glued in place, just a rough dry fit. I suddenly realized that I'm not gonna be able to do my plan of painting then gluing the windows in and fitting the frame because there is going to need to be a lot of filling done, so I guess my only recourse is to test how steady my hand can be pulling of the masking, or crystal clear windows.....but that isn't gonna work for the curved back piece.

100_1675.jpg

100_1674.jpg

thanks for looking!

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Well, I'm planning on using the thin clear stuff that came with the Verlindin kit, guess I'll just have to mask gingerly :) Thanks

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You could try shaving off some the plastic front where the end of the pe frame meets the plastic to bring it off the pumpkin a bit.

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thats what I plan on doing, there is quite a bit of plastic that appears to have slipped the mold near the top the opening. That was just a test fit.

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Well, the basic framing is folded, and fits pretty damn good after some (a lot) of sanding, right now the pprimer is drying so I can paint the inside, then the part I'm absolutly dreading, installing the windows, I just have this terrible feeling, no matter how well I glue them in, they are gonna pop off when I eventually remove the masks. I should have the windows in everything except the curved section by tomorrow, so I'll post a few pictures once I get the main part in. There is still gonna be a lot of filling to do too. THIS is gonna make or break this model.

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How bout painting the window frame as a seperate piece, then adding the windows before installing on the model. You would have to be completely sure of the fit though before trying this. At least this way you wont have to worry about masking the windows.

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that was my original plan, but once I test fit it, it became obvious that wasn't going to happen, the gaps are too big after sanding. I sanded it enough to get a tight fit in the back, but to have it folded at the correct angle, and have the top horizontal, it leaves about a 1/16 inch gap at the bottom, there is no way around filling, because that gap would be attrocious with a bmf. AND the curved portion for the back is to tall. So I think what I am going to do, is cut off the vertical pieces for the back window, only CA the horizontal pieces in place, get the windows tacked in with white glue, then run a small bead of clear silicon with a toothpick along the top and bottom on the inside of the windows. I f done right, it won't be visible. The baseball game is on now, so before I go into "surgery" tomorrow, I'll post some pre-op pics to try and explain what I am gonna do a little better. CRITIQUES WELCOME and appreciated before I do something dumb :)

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Ok, well I mentioned it my last post, so here are some pictures

100_1682.jpg

Note the sizable gaps, those will require filling, and there is no way to tweek the frame more without making it look rediculous, I tried all morning.

100_1683.jpg

Here is the lip at the top of the frame between the curved part and the main piece, its just as bad on the model tacked in place.

So here is my solution

100_1684.jpg

I'm gonna cut off and throw out the red pieces, and ca the curved blue pieces in place. From there install the "glass" as best as possible. I still have a little cutting to do to get the opening a little farther back, and put the sight in place. ANY comments or ideas are much appreciated on this one. I'm gonna do a little work to Lulu Belle and wait for some replies before entering the chop shop.

Thanks, and GO TIGERS!!!!

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Hang on to the red pieces you're cutting away and you can maybe re attach them over the glass pieces to fill later if needed.

Or use leftover pe fret since there's probably a ton. I'll be doing this for the next one I do so it's interesting to see. Between you and B-17guy doing the staggered waist things should go smoothly.

Thanks for being the guinea pigs.

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Guinea pig, hahahaha <_< kidding. I think this is gonna be the last Cheyenne Mod for a while tho. Good idea with the left overs, maybe insert the glass, the lay those over it to kind of shore it up.

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Guinea pig, hahahaha <_< kidding. I think this is gonna be the last Cheyenne Mod for a while tho. Good idea with the left overs, maybe insert the glass, the lay those over it to kind of shore it up.

Exactly.

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well, right now I'm working on Lulu Belle (FINALLY). I might work up the courage for the surgery tomorrow. Pics of the Belle will be up later. I'm trying to keep scratch building on Miss Lace to a minimun so I can finish on time, BUT (AMS) I figure I can make the heating dusct on the inside of the tail and hide some of my booboos, since it runs along the bottom of the glass to prevent fogging. We all know though, once you start scratch building, it leads to more!!!!!!!!

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Not a critique of your work, but I have to say there's something very wrong with that Verlinden etching.

Having looked at your progress, and the flat fret, there appears to be no way to fold it right so it matches up with the real thing.

The problem seems to be the small windows, which are too small and end up angled.

Have a look at this image: "Cheyenne" Tail Turret to see the problem, and the upcoming difficulty of making up the kinked larger side windows too...

Let me have a think on the matter and I'll get back to you, IIRC the Cheyenne tail is the same profile as the earlier type around the small windows, the alterations came aft of that point.

All the best,

PB

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I was thinking the same thing about it with the angles, in order forthe top to be horizontal, you have to lift it while gluing it in place, which of course leaves a huge gap on the bottom, and also makes the little windows way wrong. I didn't bother mentioning that part cause what can you do. I had thought of disecting the early tail window to use the little ones, and graft it onto the chyenne mod, but I thing that would look a little rediculous, mainly because of thick clear to pe.

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Ok, so after some serious head thumping and frustration, the Cheyenne Mod is pretty much done, I'm not overly happy with the results, but I think I did the best I could with an aftermarket kit I'm not to thrilled with anymore, the resin bits are awesome, but the pe leaves a little bit to be desired, at least with the Cheyenne framework.

100_1714.jpg

So in this picture you can see I did the chop and CA work that I was talking about, this turned out pretty good, relativly easy to do, notice the small blocks of .010 styrene I used as glue tabs, essential to get a good bond. What I did was bend the piece a tad oversized, then put the blocks on it, CA the ends of those, and let spring tension hold them in place. The top piece went on no problem, CA'd in place, when it dried a bead of CA went on the inside of the seam.

100_1716.jpg

The sheet of clear plastic is REALLY springy, so to get it to fit the back curved window, first, I cut the basic shape, way oversized, the wrapped it around a small brush and twist tied it on (no small feat, it kept wanting to unfold an fly across the room) an let it sit for a few days to curve it without crasing or deforming it, that worked. Next was LOTS of test fitting and trimming.

IMG_0003.jpg

Another bonus to the glue blocks, I planned on using the same spring tension idea to keep the window in place, but no ammount of bending it would keep it from unfolding and shooting across the room (no idea how I found it EVERY time). So, I notched the bottoms where the blocks are, that gave the plasitc something to brace against while the CA set up. After all the cutting, bending and fitting, the glueing in place took a matter of minutes.

100_1717.jpg

100_1718.jpg

Overall, I'm not happy with it, as you can see, huge gaps that need to be filled, and the angle on the rear window is WAY off, but there is really no way to avoid that if its going to fit somewhat ok. The angle also puts the bottom right on the edge of the pumpkin, which in reality there was a little space, maybe 4 inches or so. I guess I could have trimmed the bottom piece back a little in hindsight, but no idea if that would have made the gaps worse, or the curve to flat. Guess I'm stuck with results now, cause I'm no doing that again for a long time.

Thanks for looking

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Fwiw I think you did a nice job with it. Once puttied and painted you'll be happy with it. Promise.

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I'm on the fence here, I agree with hamm. You did better than what I would do with difficult parts to work with. However, I agree with you, doesnt look right. The angle of the glass is totally wrong, plus the turret itself looks wrong, too narrow and sticks out so far. For comparison:

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6074/6068244852_1df1cf0f9f.jpg, sorry, best shot I could find.

I would recomend try to get your hands on revell's parts for the cheyenne tail. Best I've never seen a better aftermarket one. Maybe next time, but I bet you could find the revell parts by going through the spares box or buy/sell section.

PA012684.jpg

In the end though, you've already done better than I would with what you used.

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