Mr. Surfacer curing time

[Cobus]

I have been trying out Mr. Surfacer 500 and 1000 but It seems to still shrink days after filling...

It feels like I have to wait almost a week after filling a seam before I can be dead sure it is gone, and won't reappear after sanding due to shrinkage of the Mr. Surfacer.

Is this normal?

[Netz]

How big of a seam are you filling? Mr Surfacer is as the name applies a surfacer not really a filler, it's basically a heavy primer, and a surface imperfection filler such as sanding scratches, your problem might be your trying to fill too large gap.

Curt

[Cobus]

Relatively shallow seams. But even with using 500 for shallow scratches they still reappear after a couple of days and I have to fill them up again.

[Triarius]

That doesn't sound right for the 500. I've only been using this stuff for filling a short time, but I suspect you are not mixing the 500 enough. It settles relatively rapidly, and it takes a surprising amount of mixing. Also, you might want to try applying it, waiting 20 minutes, then wiping off with a lint free paper towel dampened with ethyl or denatured alcohol. Wipe across the seam. Let dry, then give it a coat of 1000 and a light wet sanding.

[Jim S]

FWIW,

Though Mr. Surfacer was the "latest greatest" thing a few years ago I think (like Netz suggested) it is better used as a surface leveler. I think it is better used to fill minor imperfections across a broad area via spray can or airbrush. It seems if applied too heavy, it takes overnight to dry, and shrinks up requiring another application. The same thing if you put it on too thin, it shrinks up and requires another application. Your specific problem is probably related to mixing as Triarius suggested.

I have found myself using Super Glue more and more. You can buy it anywhere, it's easy to apply, doesn't shrink up, and durable enough to scribe. I avoid using accelerator because it usually does more harm than good, smells like it's loaded with VOC's and that's probably why it leaves its mark on any unprotected plastic. I usually try to apply the CA and sand it out somewhere between the "still tacky" and "hard as a rock" stage.

If somebody could recommend a simple liquid accelerator that wasn't as harmful as the typical accelerator that would be awesome. If it was a liquid that had a tint, that would be even better. I've tried using dyes made to tint resin, they work, but the chemicals (VOC's) used are as hard on unprotected plastic as plain accelerator.

Sometimes I use a combiniation of the two. CA to fill the gap,sink marks, depressions etc. and if I still notice something while wet sanding under the light I'll use the Mr. Surfacer for the final layer.

Hope this helps,

Jim S

Edited February 9, 2014 by Jim S

[Triarius]

Jim, what accelerator are you using? I bought a big bottle of Zip Kicker years ago, still using it, and it has never had a negative effect on plastic.

[Jim S]

Jim, what accelerator are you using? I bought a big bottle of Zip Kicker years ago, still using it, and it has never had a negative effect on plastic.

Hello Triarius,

I too have a big brown bottle of Zip Kicker,I don't know how old it is but the label says it contains Aliphatic Solvents. The problem I have is

application. When I apply too much it runs beyond the CA and can soften the surface detail,or mar paint (like in a wheel well), or un bonds small

detail parts. I guess the problem is more "me" than the "Kicker".

Maybe it has been reformulated but I don't know, it just seems like you could bond styrene with it, if you had to.

Thanks for asking,

Jim S

Edited February 9, 2014 by Jim S

[Triarius]

Hello Triarius,

I too have a big brown bottle of Zip Kicker,I don't know how old it is but the label says it contains Aliphatic Solvents. The problem I have is

application. When I apply too much it runs beyond the CA and can soften the surface detail,or mar paint (like in a wheel well), or un bonds small

detail parts. I guess the problem is more "me" than the "Kicker".

Maybe it has been reformulated but I don't know, it just seems like you could bond styrene with it, if you had to.

Thanks for asking,

Jim S

Very odd, root and twig, very odd indeed. Admittedly, I rarely apply large amounts. You can accelerate CA just by holding the joint over the open bottle.

[Jim S]

You can accelerate CA just by holding the joint over the open bottle.

Thank you for the great tip! Being the ham fisted modeler that I am,I never realized that, but it makes sense.

Thanks again,

Jim S

[balls47]

Yessir, I have used Mr. Surfacer for a long time. It is great for small surface problems. Apply it in very thin coats. I don't use if for filling seams, unless the seam is almost invisible. I love the stuff, but, like everything, it has its limitations. As far as CA accelerator, I have never had any problems with it crazing plastic. I have used a couple of different brands, Zip Kicker and Flashtac. Both work fine. Good Luck!!!

[DrGlueblob]

I've sprinkled baking soda over CA.. Sets it right up.