Wingnut Wings Fokker D.VII (32011)

[mrvark]

I’m a ‘jet’ guy, but like a lot of modelers who don’t normally do WWI aircraft (let’s face it, mostly because we “don’t/can’t do rigging”), I had to take the plunge and try a Wingnut Wing’s kit. So, if you’re like me, and have one or two of these in ‘the stash’, here are a few lessons learned that might be helpful.

1) I decided to go with a set of Master photoetch and turned brass Spandau machine guns. Aside from the really cool barrels and muzzles, the cooling jacket is a photoetched tube, which is very handy. While we’re on the subject, since most photoetch is made out of brass (and guns aren’t), a friend alerted me to a product called ‘Blacken It’ that will turn brass black within a couple of minutes, using a chemical reaction. I suggest you do this before getting superglue all over the parts as it ‘protects’ the brass from the chemical. The challenge in using the Master replacement is to get all the pieces aligned, especially since the jacket has a particular orientation. Suite yourself, but I think the best approach is to 1) blacken the parts, 2) glue the gun-sight on in the correct orientation, 3) install the gun barrel and front of the gun jacket, 4) then the rear of the jacket. This was the most maddening part of the whole build and one I procrastinated until the very end on.

2) Rigging. If you’re a metrically challenged Yank, like me, note that the rigging diameter they call out is 0.15mm, NOT inches! (BTW, that works out to 0.006 inches.)

3) Interior ‘rigging’. The instructions lead you through the assembly of the interior, then they have a drawing that shows the assembled interior including control surface cables and interior wire bracing. Study that drawing before you start assembling the interior – you may want to do some of that before the interior is completely assembled.

4) Something that I did that you may find helpful is to go through the instructions and make a list by part number of which steps a part is used in and what color it needs to be painted. I did this because there are lots of parts that weren’t familiar to me. I referred to the list numerous times both as a painting guide and to see which step a part was used in, or if it was unused. This takes about an hour, but I think it easily saved me that much time during painting and assembly.

5) Decals: The instructions warn against applying the decals over Future/Clear and using decal solvents to get them to settle into the plastic (they recommend using a blow dryer). I emailed WnW about this and they claimed the decals would eventually come up if applied over a coat of Future (I’ve used Future for years and never had this problem, but whatever). I used the acrylic thinner X-20 and although I had a couple of small spots where the decal bleached out a little, I was able to recover by using some of the extra decal supplied to cover the mistakes. On balance, I think using the solvent was preferable, especially for getting the decals to wrap around the edge of the flying surfaces. The decals are Cartograf and totally impressive—even having little holes in the decal for the control surface wires!

6) Prop: I bought an aftermarket wooden prop from “The Prop Shop” and it totally rocks—laminated using the same wood and finishes as the original. Optional, but highly recommended. There are a couple of guys who do this and you can find out more at www.ww1aircraftmodels.com .

7) Being from New Zealand, they don’t have access to several major paint brands, including Model Master, so be prepared to use one of the several paint-matching web sites if you plan to use something other than Tamiya, Humbrol or Misterkit paints.

A couple of specific notes on the Fokker D.VII (32011):

1) If you attach the pilot’s safety harness (part P4 from step 3) to the back of the seat (part A38 in step 1), you won’t need to cut off the little tab at the bottom of the harness. It actually fits very nicely around the seat where it attaches to the bulkhead (part A26). This is alluded to in the instructions, but you have to look for it.

2) I read a review of this kit in a modeling magazine and the modeler described how the cockpit structure was too wide for the fuselage halves. He shimmed the fuselage, which caused a ripple of other fit issues later in the build, especially with the cabane struts. The parts, if assembled correctly fit snuggly in the fuselage without modification. In step 2, the reviewer didn’t assemble the cockpit frames (parts B10 and B11) correctly with the seat bulkhead (part A26 from step 1). Do a little test fitting and you’ll have no problems.

3) In steps 1 and 3 they tell you that the floor (part A37) and instrument panel (part A39) are wood, and have an on-line tutorial showing you how to simulate a wood finish. One other spot should get this treatment, the angled panel on the left cockpit frame (part B10 in step 2).

4) In step 5, engine part E11 looks a lot like part E15 that goes on the other side of the engine. However, they are different; E11 has a series of tiny holes in it to facilitate wiring the spark plugs, should you so desire.

5) Before completing step 6, take a couple of pictures of all the work you’ve put into the cockpit and engine area. When the model’s done, you won’t see 90% of it again!

6) In step 9, the left side of the cowling is actually part I-8 not I-12 as it’s labeled. They imply that the various side panels can be removed. Frankly, while the fit of the kit is good, it’s not that good and you should probably decide if you want the cowling covering the engine or removed. Once you install the fragile flash guards in step 13, I don’t think you’re going to be inclined towards removing them. I ended up gluing the cowling on with Gator glue in case I ever change my mind and want to display the engine.

7) In step 10, if you want your wheels (D8) to rotate, remember to attach them to the axle (A30) using clips (D16) before gluing on the wheel covers (D9). Don’t ask me how I know!

8) Also in step 10, the most harrowing part of the build for me was seeing one wing about a quarter inch closer to the ground than the other after installing the undercarriage. (I’m sure the guys who build biplanes all the time have a trick to avoid this that I don’t know about.) The rigging diagram on page 20 shows the cross-rigging for the undercarriage. This is where my 0.15-inch wire came in handy. I very carefully measured and cut the bends in the wire (I think it was 1.5” between bends) and installed them using superglue, which pulled the struts into alignment and leveled the wings. HUGE sigh of relief! BTW, you’ll need to drill your own holes where the front struts enter the fuselage. Oddly enough, those are the only rigging holes they neglected to include in the kit.

9) In step 12, the front cabane strut on parts B8 & B12 attach to the front-most flat tab on parts B14 & B15 respectively as seen in step 4.

10) Also in step 12, I recommend supergluing wing struts D2 into the lower wing and letting them set before installing the upper wing.

Hope you've found my little review helpful!

[Jennings]

Great job Jim!! That's a sharp looking Fokker. I've got a D.VII in the stash, and in fact just received a set of (INCREDIBLE!) Aviattic lozenge decals in the mail today. I'm printing out your tips to use when I get started on my build.

Does "The Prop Shop" have a web site??

J

Edited June 16, 2014 by Jennings

[11bee]

Great job. Wish I had known about the Prop Shop when I did mine, trying to paint the laminated prop was a PITA.

[vince14]

Great job Jim!! That's a sharp looking Fokker. I've got a D.VII in the stash, and in fact just received a set of (INCREDIBLE!) Aviattic lozenge decals in the mail today. I'm printing out your tips to use when I get started on my build.

Does "The Prop Shop" have a web site??

J

'The Prop Shop' is run by Doug Craner - he doesn't have a website, but you can email him at dougcraner@hotmail.co.uk with your requirements. It's currently taking him 4-6 weeks to turn orders around.

Vince

[SBARC]

Beautiful build.

I'll add the Prop Shop to the ARC links page linked to Doug's e-mail addy. I also plan to run an article tomorrow for his props.