Ed DeVivo Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 Greetings... I am going to use Clear Gorilla Glue to attach the canopy of a 1/48 F-15 to its frame. Here's my question. I know its a very long drying time, and while Im not worried about it drying clear, which it certainly does, my concern is holding the canopy in place on the frame until it cures. Taping and clamping is off the table due to the convex shape of the canopy and the two pieces being somewhat cumbersome. I can see that actually becoming disastrous. I thought of uv clear epoxy w/ a uv led light, as it cures in 2 minutes or so, and I can simply hold it in place.. Anyway, are there any suggestions as to what some of you do? Thanks! -Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ed DeVivo Posted February 24 Author Share Posted February 24 48 views not one response.. My God what's happened to ARC... lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ExchefAndy Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 I have never used epoxy glue, uv light before so I can't recommend it either way. Would several elastic bands be an option? Just don't make it too tight of course as you'll crack the clear part! Just a suggestion but I hope it helps Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chuck1945 Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 I often use a Bondic set (UV curing clear resin and UV light) for attaching canopies. Takes about 15-20 seconds but you do need to keep the parts in place while you use the UV light to cure the resin. 5-minute clear epoxy is another alternative with the potential advantage of being able to clean up any smears with a Q-tip dipped denatured alcohol before the epoxy cures (let it set enough that the canopy holds in place, then gently rub any excess off) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nathant Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 Why not use Tamiya thin cement? Both parts are plastic… just be careful and don’t overdo it. The clear plastic won’t fog if you’re careful. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NButtifant Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 Hi Ed, I always use Humbrol Clearfix ( and have done for several years )to glue any Perspex parts, I believe that Microscale Krystal Klear does the same, Humbrol Clearfix generally takes a couple of hours to set. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ed DeVivo Posted March 2 Author Share Posted March 2 Thank you all for the replies!! It certainly helped, and I went with the uv clear resin and I was impressed... I learned that you can also use Tamiya thin cement, which I used as well.. Thanks! -Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spejic Posted March 9 Share Posted March 9 On 2/24/2024 at 9:41 AM, Nathant said: Why not use Tamiya thin cement? Both parts are plastic… just be careful and don’t overdo it. The clear plastic won’t fog if you’re careful. It might wick up in panel lines, and even if one is careful mistakes can be made. I usually use the thick Testors glue. Unlike epoxies it has some holding power right away. I use the non-toxic type which doesn't make strings, but does have a long drying time (which I don't mind in my building style). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheRealMrEd Posted April 21 Share Posted April 21 G-S Hypo Cement also known as "watch" cement, used to glue watch crystals to cases. This stuff is sort of like tube cement, crystal clear and can be smoothed (or removed) with rubbing alcohol (I find 90% type works best.). I will NOT mar plastic, clear or otherwise! Available from Amazon and elsewhere. Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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