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About spejic

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    So plausible you won't believe it

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  1. That Palace Athene is super impressive. I've done enough scratchbuilding to appreciate the quality and difficulty of your work, although I do ships which are basically boxes on boxes. I can't imagine doing compound curves - and then making it's mirror part exactly the same size and shape for the other side! Absolutely top level. Thanks for showing it.
  2. I did find one example on a A-4L. While I have a couple thousand images of the A-4, you could never tell one way or the other on most of them because of the quality of the film/scan/lighting. But there are also very late A-4E and F's (like those in aggressor squadrons) without them, so it really depends on the particular airframe. I don't see them on Skyhawks with enlarged intakes (probably because they wouldn't even fit), and I have also yet to see one on a TA-4J (again, that is not proof they were no TA-4J's with them) and the Hasegawa kit of the TA-4J does not include it.
  3. You are really brave to go back to a model you've already finished, but the new model feels fuller and the display is more dynamic. Love how the wire gives the impression of the V-1's spoiled flight line.
  4. These are excellent representatives of the genre. Extremely sharp and clean work.
  5. Try to find pictures of the aircraft you are modelling. That support is seen on some E's and F's and not in others. In my photo collection I can't find it on other variants of the Skyhawk, which is no guarantee because this is a thin piece of metal and hard to see on clean aircraft in 1970's and 80's film. There is no panel line on the support itself.
  6. The paint scheme is really sharply done. I've noticed you fixed the kit's backwards Sidewinder rails - is there any other modification you make to the kit?
  7. I would like to put an asymmetric load of weapons on a MQ-9 model, but from publicity photos it looks like it is extremely uncommon. Is that the case?
  8. If you mean the right hand side from the perspective of the pilot, the picture I have of this area has nothing. The left hand side (the throttle side) has a pocket made of cloth with the same light metallic green color as the quilting, but I have no idea if this was common or not. The Cutting Edge third-party 1/48 cockpit replacement seems to model something there, but the Ares one doesn't and now we are going into second and third hand information. Unless you have reason to think this container was in your particular aircraft, I wouldn't model it. Once the seat is installed and th
  9. I'm sorry. It worked for me the few times I needed it, but that was for small spots where I guess it's a lot easier to temper how much you rub. It might depend on the brand of the underlying paint as well.
  10. It does look nice. Being bespoke it has a couple advantages over the Hasegawa, mainly having positionable spoilers. The Hasegawa wing doesn't have a spoiler at all, and requires some new panel lines to be added. The cockpit looks more detailed and the airbrakes actually look like they will fit closed, which was a major bummer on the Hasegawa. But the wing slat well is still modeled with a step. Fixing it on the Hasegawa was a pain, and the more detailed the kit the more difficult it will be to replicate all the lines and rivets you need. Can't see if the front wheel is a separate p
  11. I would try slowly rubbing it with a q-tip dipped in isopropy alcohol. It should eventually work, but it might take a while. Be patient. It might look a little cloudy at the end, but if it isn't a clear part it should go away next time it is sprayed with a clear coat (gloss or flat).
  12. I've made some decals for Navy and Marine aircraft of the period, and the lettering was very, very inconsistent. You could have half a dozen different letter aspect ratios / spacings on the same aircraft. If you are trying to replicate the markings of a particular aircraft, it's best to get good pictures and just trace over what was lettered on the real thing.
  13. I think it is compatible with the method I use as it also shrinks a lot as it dries, but it's just goopier than Mr. Surfacer and isn't as easy to spread evenly or thinly over panel lines.
  14. You can thin the fillers (Perfect Plastic Putty is good for this because you can thin it with water) or use one that is already liquid (like Mr Surfacer 500). Fill the lines, wipe away the excess with something that won't go into the panel lines (a coffee filter is good) and they will both shrink when drying. I got good results out of both of those recently.
  15. I dipped a canopy in Tamiya Clear and it looks fantastic except that a large bit of dust landed on it. Is there a good way to fix that? I've removed clear from clear parts before using alcohol, but it makes the clear parts foggy.
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