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About spejic

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    So plausible you won't believe it

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  1. Seems like many of the items on sale at Hobby Link Japan are only 19ยข cheaper than normal.
  2. I don't think there is a perfect one. I use different ones for different needs. If the gap is large I usually put styrene rods or stretched sprue into it before any putty. If there is any flex in the join most putties will crack. I usually use the Tamiya grey. You need to wait a day before sanding it - it might be dry sooner, but it will keep shrinking for a while. If I'm going to be doing lots of manipulation or fill lots of gaps at once or want something structural I will use a two part epoxy (Tamiya Slow or Milliput White) but those take a while to prepare and cure and for me on
  3. in order of how often I used them, it would be: knife handle with #11 blade knife handle with square #17 blade knife handle with round #13 blade knife handle with dull #11 blade electrician tweezers sprue cutters I have like 7 knife handles. My modeling became more enjoyable when I decided to get a bunch and not keep switching blade types.
  4. So... what's going on here? F-35C from the VX-9 test and evaluation unit.
  5. Do mean traditional plasticine or modern polymer clay? The first should be ok, but the second definitely should not be in contact with models before it is baked and set. It is full of plasticizers and will eat through your model in time.
  6. I'd think you'd need to be a couple of wamprats short to even think about fixing that horrible model, but you've done amazing work so far.
  7. I used very fine wire. I wrap it around a toothpick because the tapered tip lets me chose the diameter and can be slipped off easily. I paint it yellow and apply the black stripes with a fine Micron technical pen. Your first tries will certainly be too big, but keep trying. This is a seat from a 1/144 Revell F-104G, but the principle is the same.
  8. The weathering on this is really nicely done. The pilot figures are really exquisite.
  9. I never got it myself so I'm not sure, but the Super Fox requires the two A-4M fuselage sprues which gives you the properly shaped rudder with the ALR-45, and the larger A-4M intakes. And you need the front fuselage of the E/F, which happens to be attached to one of those main fuselage sprues. I assume Fujimi was able to switch around the kind of front fuselage and rear fuselage that came on that sprue, because the A-4KU boxing (which I did get) came with a A-4M front and a A-4E/F rear.
  10. They've already released some a few years ago, like the A-4M and OA-4M. They are adding new ones soon, like the TA-4J with some cool decals. This is all good news for A-4 fans. Hopefully they keep releasing new ones eventually. The only one I really want is the A-4F Super Fox, but that seems a bit unlikely. It was released by Fujimi, but only a limited release at a higher price. Which was just about the non-inflation-adjusted price of a Hobby 2000 A-4M and a A-4E together. I guess I talked myself into it.
  11. Wow. The Academy is a re-release of the ancient LS kit, which is an F-15A and a very bare bones one at that with no pylons, cockpit, or anything really. You did an intense amount of work to turn it into a two-seater and bring the details up to the modern era. Your pylons really look good, and I really like how you modified the tail booms. Really great work. Are those third-party seats or did you scratchbuild those too?
  12. That looks really cool. Is that the clear version or the opaque one? How do you handle the windows?
  13. Those F-35C's are showing a distressing inability to get dirty.
  14. I love the combination of the sharp construction and paint job with the haphazard nature of the touchup painting. Beautiful model.
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