spejic

In some cases, but generally it makes a weaker bond and can make the glue look white and powdery. Accelerators are almost all stuff that evaporates quickly and only a tiny bit of stuff that cures cyanoacrylate. It does help to increase the humidity if you have low humidity in the house. You can also try lightly blowing on the bond.

This has happened to me on occasion. I'd get a bottle of the standard green labeled stuff and it wouldn't bond anything. Then I get another bottle and it worked fine.

I actually just dipped a canopy in Tamiya X-22 a a few days ago for the first time. It looked even clearer and sharper than Future, and a bit of fogging I had from a previous dip in Future cleared up, but it's quite a bit thicker which may not be a problem for most models but it forced me to sand down the HUD in my 1/144 F/A-18D a bit to make it fit.

You can clean Future from your airbrush or brushes with isopropyl alcohol. I also recently found an unfortunate way that Future can go bad. If you leave the top open and you have fruit in your house, fruit flies will go into the bottle of Future because of its sweet smell. And they don't come out again. So now I have to buy a new bottle. But at least I drowned a couple hundred of those suckers.

I use the Model Master thinner or the Tamiya X-20 thinner. They both work well for all acrylics I use.

That's even worse. It is even less stable because it has multiple ingredients meant to react with each other. It will have a reaction just from the moisture in the air. Here's a thread about some people's long-term experiences with models built using baking soda: http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/19/t/84838.aspx

This looks really great. Nothing better than a VF-1 with an alternate paint scheme. I'm really interested in seeing how it turns out. I kind of lean towards the lighter schemes where fast packs are used because it makes a nice contrast. But really you can't go wrong. I've seen some wild builds and they never look bad.

Very attractive scheme that couldn't have been easy to pull off. Clean build with excellent panel line work. Thank you for showing us your kit.

That Skyhawk web site is fantastic. I leaned lots of tricks from it, and hope you continue. Here is how I deal with the intakes. I installed the inner duct part D12 so it is centered between the fuselage halves with a little gap on either side. When you do that, the intakes have a small step to that part, but only on the bottom half. You can put a little two-part putty there and smooth it down. You then get a very close match.

I don't have a problem with those. I even kind of figured out a way to do the intakes. But how in the world do you close the airbrakes. They are just the wrong shape.

This looks very dynamic and the support of the helicopter is well hidden. It really looks fantastic. But using baking soda was a mistake. It's going to yellow, and it decomposes into a nasty goo in time when it is mixed with paints or glues.

It doesn't say on their web site how they are printed, but they don't say to put a sealing coat before applying so I assume it isn't water soluble printing. So I would just use the decals as they are now.

This is on a home-printed decal, right? I don't think it is a fatal problem. But you will probably need to spray the Decal Bonder on top to actually make it waterproof, and you will end up with a very thick decal. The Decal Bonder is some kind of lacquer, very similar in smell and look to their Gloss Cote, but it isn't quite the same. I've tried using Testor's Gloss Cote as a decal sealer on ink-jet printed decals and it didn't work. I've since switched to Microscale Decal Film, which is a little trickier to use but makes a thinner surface and doesn't yellow.

That is hilarious.

Freetime Hobbies used to have a massive storefront in Georgia, but they recently changed to a private warehouse. They are still a good internet store, especially for ship models.