spejic

I always used the cans, so I don't know.

The paint revealed lots of deep scratches, so I filled, sanded, and repainted those areas multiple times. I've started putting the landing gear on, but I could not find some of the doors and the retraction arms for the rear gears. I looked in every kit box I own, and they are nowhere to be found. I have to scratchbuild them. I'm doing research for that now.

It's not a part that requires strength, so I recommend using PVA glues (white glues). They give lots of working time, hold parts well while wet, clean up easily, and dry clear.

I use the same as the post above. The Acryl flat isn't as dead flat as the lacquer you are used to, but it's pretty fool proof. Lacquer clear coats will work with acrylics, but you better wait a few weeks between painting and clear coating just to be sure.

You shouldn't be getting paint there from just the normal operation of the brush. You are probably introducing paint there by pulling the needle out through the rear when you clean the airbrush. This not only puts paint in a hard-to-clean place, but it might eventually get in the air valve, which is tricky to disassemble and clean (or, more accurately, easy to disassemble and clean and a pain to put back together). I always remove the nozzle and push the needle forward when I clean.

It helps to spray with the absolute minimum paint coming out of the airbrush and not letting the paint look wet. Slowly build up the color moving the brush constantly. This will prevent bleed-under and build up on the mask edges.

Oh, and you should post an image in the Showroom thread.

Anything that moves a model from the unfinished pile to the display case is a celebration in my book. I'm glad this thread gave you the stroke of fortune to do that.

I did the camouflage for the top. The overspray on the bottom is where I'm going to paint some metal plates, so I don't care about that. I've dipped the canopy in Future - I'm going to display the cockpit open to show off as much of the internals as I can.

That looks amazingly sharp. Thank you for showing us how you build such fantastic aircraft.

Try Irfanview, an excellent picture viewer that can perform many batch operations, such as resize. http://www.irfanview.com/ Don't set your camera to take smaller images. You want the big images for your own use, you just want smaller copies to show on the web.

I like making mine a little dusty (which is easy, just grind up some dry pastels and brush it on the model). But despite the obvious skill in making a rust bucket I don't think it's actually accurate from what I read. Tanks undergo frequent maintenance and WWII ones had a short life on the front so they never got a chance to look like extras from Mad Max. Every tank or airplane is clean at least once, so you are never inaccurate making one pristine.

I'm sure this build will be informative. But you sure have a lot of work ahead of you. Good luck. I hate painting road wheels soooooo much.

HARM's can't quickly respond to air defense radars either, at least if the SAM site operators are smart and well trained. The west launched over 700 HARMs against Serbia and it doesn't look like they knocked out a single weapon.

In the sets I purchased the grey they used wasn't anything like the greys cockpits were actually painted. A pretty close match is RLM 76.