Canopy marks

[Ollie T-Y]

when i glue canopies together ( i like my planes to be in mid-flight) i usually get a clousy glue mark where the glue has come out and gone on it!!!

Is it the actual glue im using ( liquid Poly)?

can i get rid of it?

ALSO : is food colouring + future the best way to tint? i like the idea!!! i suppose if i bugger it up, out comes the Windolene :lol: :D

[dreammh]

Its very strongly advisable not to use cement instant glue or any other strong glues for clear parts. Stray glue can damage the canopies quite bad. Their vapours can 'fog' the canopies.

For clear parts, use Tamiya extra thin cement, or white glue which is just as effective at a much lower cost.

[Ollie T-Y]

ok, Tamiya thin cement, ill get some of that for my next models

How about the tinting question? does it really work? how do i get an orange cockpit? i dont really want to buy the Tamiya clear paints, as im quite low on cash at the moment (Valentine's Day.....)

[billb]

Don't know about the tinting but white glue (Elmers, Aquadhere whatever it's called where you are) is perfect for canopies. It doesn't dissolve the plastic so doesn't hurt the clear plastic at all.

[Shawn C.]

I just tinted an F-16 canopy using future mixed with food coloring. It turned out pretty well. I just dipped the clear parts in the colored Future. It took 2 dippings, but it looks nice. It's subtle, and since this was the first time I have tried this technique, I scrounged a few spare clear parts to experiment with, and I strongly suggest you do the same if you can.

HPH,

Shawn

[redruffensore]

If you can find Microscale Krystal Kleer in the UK, get a bottle of that. That's my clear parts cement of choice. It dries crystal clear and has much less shrinkage than Elmer's. I have used Model master's Clear Parts cement, which is really wartch crystal cement in a nutshell and although it is very strong, it has a lot of shrinkage and it is a lot harder to clean off the excess with a damp swab than Krystall Kleer.

Caz

[canadian_camo]

for clear parts white glue will do just fine or you can use something like Testors clear parts cement or Humbrols clearfix. as for the tinting food colouring is fine

[Ollie T-Y]

Cheers everyone

So, do i add more food coloring for a deeper effect, or will it look crappy?

[Miccara]

For clear parts, use Tamiya extra thin cement, or white glue which is just as effective at a much lower cost.

Tamiya Extra Thin is really the glue of choice for me regarding the 'Close" canopy version of a kit. You will not get the fogging and the glue dries very fast. It's capillary action works amazingly well in this circumstance. Frankly I like the fact it melts the plastic a little because with pressure and a little wiggling, you can achieve a perfect fit.

I found that my problem with white glue is it takes too long to dry, I ALWAYS put too much on and have to clean it up.

[dreammh]

Oh ya Future....I forgot to add that :lol:

Future is the best choice I guess for glueing canopies. I never used that method myself but it should work great. White glue is good but sometimes too weak.

As for your tinting question. I myself uses Tamiya enamel clear and airbrush onto it. So far it yields a better result than dipping it in Future, IMO. Future, is however a much safer way in case you are not confident of airbrushing clear parts. But getting a immense tint with this method can be a pain.

[Julien (UK)]

For your canopy glue I would use a 2 part epoxy glue like Araldite (in uk)

It dries clear, gives a strong bond and about 10 mins to play with to get things nice and straight.

Julien