Camo Masking, mechanics there of

[Grant]

OK, here I am doing my first camo airbrushing (3 colours :blink: ) and, having read through the TnT articles on the subject, and done some black panel spraying over a single, Futured, base coat I still have some questions...

1. Having sprayed the lightest colour, isn't that so thin and neat looking paint layer going to lift, if I stick masking tape onto it? (Using Tamiya tape - about to try there new 40mm stuff.) And given the three colour camo, this tape could be on for a few days.

2. I could Klear between each colour, but that would mean 7 layers of paint (including the final flat coat) and I don't get on spraying Klear, I brush it on. That seems a little OTT to me.

3. Is BluTack better or worse than Tamiya tape for not lifting paint?

4. And what about silver paint, that just looks like it is waiting to come off with the tape. <_<

The kits are an F-16N and an MB339 PAN in 1/72.

Somebody tell me I am just being paranoid at that it is not that troublesome, please.

TIA

GM

[Guest Guest_benjamin]

hi grant

I'm not a hero in masking myself but;

I think you can be pretty sure masking tape will not damage your paint if you spray it thin enough and let it completely dry.I always use Tamiya tape and never had any problems with it. :blink:

i'm sure the experts will help you out here

No need for being paranoid! :P

Have fun

greets, Benjamin

[MoFo]

OK, here I am doing my first camo airbrushing (3 colours :P ) and, having read through the TnT articles on the subject, and done some black panel spraying over a single, Futured, base coat I still have some questions...

1. Having sprayed the lightest colour, isn't that so thin and neat looking paint layer going to lift, if I stick masking tape onto it? (Using Tamiya tape - about to try there new 40mm stuff.) And given the three colour camo, this tape could be on for a few days.

2. I could Klear between each colour, but that would mean 7 layers of paint (including the final flat coat) and I don't get on spraying Klear, I brush it on. That seems a little OTT to me.

3. Is BluTack better or worse than Tamiya tape for not lifting paint?

4. And what about silver paint, that just looks like it is waiting to come off with the tape. :blink:

The kits are an F-16N and an MB339 PAN in 1/72.

Somebody tell me I am just being paranoid at that it is not that troublesome, please.

TIA

GM

First and foremost, when discussing matters of paint, it's always important to cite specifics - type/brands of paint used, thinner used, surface prep (if any), etc. Different paints behave differently, so it's impossible to give any catch-all answers, unfortunately. (also, I'm not sure I get your preamble - you've primed, then Futured, then pre-shaded? :huh: )

1. It shouldn't, but there are many variables. Acrylics (aqueous) can lift, as they don't "bond" to the plastic, so if you have problems with paint lifting/peeling, switch to enamels - I've NEVER had them lift, and they're even more sturdy if thinned with lacquer thinner. That said, if your primer coat doesn't lift, paint sprayed on top of it shouldn't, either.

2. WAY OTT. And wouldn't do any good, anyway, really - see #1.

3. BluTack should be less prone to lifting, simply because of how the two work, though I don't have personal experience with either (and don't use Acrylics, as I suspect you do).

4. Depends on the paint. If it's an acrylic, it should behave the same as every other acrylic. If it's an enamel, it'll behave the same as other enamels. If it's metalizer, then yes, it can be prone to lifting - mask the bare plastic on the area to be sprayed NM, then spray your camo, then mask around the NM areas and spray your metalizers. If it's Alclad or SNJ and has been properly prepped and sprayed, there shouldn't be any problems with masking.

[Old72s]

I use primarily PollyScale acrylics and some MM Acryl, so here's my side of the coin...

Like Mofo said, Acrylics do not bind plastic so technically they're more prone to lifting. Technically. I highly recommend washing the plastic with warm (WARM, not hot) soapy water to get rid of any mold release agents etc. Dry it thoroughly and shoot a coat of primer (a lot of people swear by Mr Surfacer which I have no experience with -- I use PollyS primer grey (a railroad color). I recommend shooting primer on all the unassembled bits on the sprues as well -- it makes detail painting that much easier later on.

FWIW, I've never had primer or paint lift and I use 3M masking tape from Home Depot. Part of the solution is to de-tack the tape by sticking it to your pants or shirt a few times before applying it to the model. You only need enough tack to keep it on the surface (you keep paint from bleeding under by keeping it relatively dry rather than by making a perfect seal with the tape). The only exception are metallic paints. PollyS ATSF Silver is one of my favorites and it will lift for weeks. The solution is to shoot Future over metallics. You can then mask to your heart's content.

My preferred method of masking is to apply a piece of tape to the surface, mark the camo line, remove the tape and cut it out to shape, and the re-apply it. If you want softer edges, put some dots of blue-tac under the tape to raise it off the surface.

Personally I haven't had much luck using blue-tac for masks because it's almost impossible to get a smooth edge on it -- it always tends to wave a little and crack. Masking with tape is a lot faster and gives me better control for complex shapes.

Just my 2 cents.

[Guest BZZBZZ]

Hi Grant, to minimizing the lifting risk, I usually stick the tape ( I also use tamiya masking tape, the best :blink: ) to my inner thigh, or any place where safe (not too many hair in this case), lift it up, repeat the procedure 2-3 times, and you have a lo-tack masking tape.

HTH

:P

[Aggie96]

On the Fw190D-9 I'm finishing up, I used blue tak to mask the camo for the first time.

I use MM Acryl acrylics over MM enamel primer. There was no chance that it would peel the paint. let the primer coat and the top coats dry for 24 hours each befor masking for the second color. Turned out great! The best part is being able to get that uneven masking line I have a hard time getting with tape and it was faster than cutting masks and taping them down.

The bonus is I can now reuse the blue tak on the next project.

FYI

[Paul T]

Well,I didn`t want to be the first to say it....but you leave me no choice,as apposed to the many choices for masking.SILLY PUTTY :P Works much like blue tack I suppose .Not sure what or if it`s called in the U.K.

Good luck Grant :blink:

Paul T

[Guest stealth]

Hi there

I found this interesting video describing a neat way of painting camoflaged aircraft HERE. Make sure you have a broadband connection (or a lot of time on your hands) to view the streaming media.

In essense the guy uses small balls of blue-tac to attach the masks onto the surface (he uses a commercial mask but you should be able to do the same with paper cut to the right shapes). This eliminates the worry of lifting paint since only the small bits of blue-tac touch the surface.

I haven't tried it myself but seems a logical way of doing things!

Hope this helps

Regards

Mat

[Old72s]

Yeah, that's Brett Green from Hyperscale. :blink:

[Grant]

Thanks Guys.

Sorry for the delay in getting back, just haven't had time for the net since posting the question.

True MoFo, not enough detail in the question.

I use Humbrol enamels, so it sounds like I am not going to have a problem with masking tape. Though I like the idea of making the tape even more low tack BZZBZZ.

OLD72s that sounds like a sensible plan - mark the tape then lift and cut.

Paul T - I think SILLY PUTTY is probably called POTTY PUTTY in the UK, but I haven't seen it for years.

Right lets get stuck in - Oh no! I am at work, it will have to wait till later

Thanks again

GM

[TedTaylor]

If you want a soft edge then why not spray it freehand with no masking, if your paint is thin and your airbrush is almost closed you can lower the air pressure to aroung 15 lbs PSI and now hold the nozzle appx half an inch from the surface and you can follow a pencil line around the edge of that colour then fill in straight after. you will only have to do this twice as the first colour can be sprayed roughly where it is needed then pencil in the demarcations for the others. This way your paint will dry almost instantly and you can spray all three colours one after the other, I use mainly Humbrol Enamels but it works just as well with other paints.

good luck

TED