swordfish paint colour

[martin_sam_2000]

im building a swordfish and im wondering what the inside colour of the fuselage would be. the instructions call for desert yellow, but that doesnt seem right to me. based of that colou rim assuming it was left bare canvas. but with a lack of good photos i am unsure.

does anybody knowwha colour it was?

thanks, sean

[Falkirk1298]

There was a discussion about this very question with regard to Wellington interiors on Hyperscale a while ago. John Adams of Aeroclub Models posted an image of fabric that should give you an idea of the effect you are looking for.

http://www.network54.com/Forum/149674/thread/1158262901/

I would sum it up as looking like a white tissue after you've had a nose bleed!

John

Edited March 24, 2007 by Falkirk1298

[Edgar]

The tubular framework, and other metal areas, should be cockpit green. The fabric areas should be a streaky cream/pink. The fabric was Irish linen, which is a cream, not white. Red dope was painted on the outside, five coats in all. The first two were 1/2, the last three full, strength. This partially bled through the fabric weave, giving the streaky pink effect. Without wartime restrictions, modern restorers tend to be a little more generous, with the dope, hence the almost brick red, on some aircraft, which are flying today.

Edgar

[martin_sam_2000]

thanks to you both. that was exactly the kind of info i needed. what did we all do before the interweb arrived.

sean

[peebeep]

I have seen fabric samples at Old Warden, in some cases the dope bleeds all the way through to give a fairly even coverage, others were very streaky. I have some pics somewhere, if I can find them will post here.

peebeep

[Old Man]

A good way to get the right effect, Sir, is to paint the surface white first, then go over it with streaks of Model Master 'British Crimson' Enamel, which is very close to the P.C. 12 dope shade, and then do a couple of thin coats of a buff or cream shade, that the streaks will show nicely through.

[peebeep]

Thes bits of fabric were removed from the Shuttleworth Avro Tutor when it was given new fabric:-

First pic shows consistent colour where the primer has leeched all the way through:

Second pic shows the streaky effect;

peebeep

[The Keeper]

This partially bled through the fabric weave, giving the streaky pink effect. Without wartime restrictions, modern restorers tend to be a little more generous, with the dope, hence the almost brick red, on some aircraft, which are flying today.

Well said, Edgar! I recall having this discussion on RMS a few years back and I wound up using a white tinted version of "salmon" (used on the interior of early Corsairs) to achieve the look.

Cheers,

[lasermonkey]

Thes bits of fabric were removed from the Shuttleworth Avro Tutor when it was given new fabric:-

First pic shows consistent colour where the primer has leeched all the way through:

Second pic shows the streaky effect;

peebeep

I have one of those pieces of Tutor, along with a bit from the Pup and Southern Martlet.

Cheers,

Mark.

[Mrp]

In my collection, I actually have a panel off a Swordfish. It is untouched and genuine . I have attached a couple of pictures to give you an idea of what it actually looks like.

Hope it helps.

MRP

IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v703/MRLP/IMG_2325.jpg[/img]

[martin_sam_2000]

great pics. that really gives me a good idea of waht i have to do.

A good way to get the right effect, Sir, is to paint the surface white first, then go over it with streaks of Model Master 'British Crimson' Enamel, which is very close to the P.C. 12 dope shade, and then do a couple of thin coats of a buff or cream shade, that the streaks will show nicely through.

i was thinking of reversing this process. paintthe crimson red on first then airbrush a very thinnned down coat of white. does anybody know if this will work??

does anybody have any other ideason how to do this??

[Edgar]

You'll find that it pays to undercoat red, with white; I do it, every time. Red hasn't much "body," so won't cover very well, and, especially if the plastic is dark, you may need several coats. The same criterion applies to yellow, as well.

Edgar

[lasermonkey]

You'll find that it pays to undercoat red, with white; I do it, every time. Red hasn't much "body," so won't cover very well, and, especially if the plastic is dark, you may need several coats. The same criterion applies to yellow, as well.

Edgar

Totally agree! I did read an interesting post, some time back, where it was suggested that to improve the opacity of red or yellow, add a little of the appropriate colour to the white undercoat. I can't say I've tried it myself, but I'm intrigued.

Cheers,

Mark.

[Old Man]

i was thinking of reversing this process. paintthe crimson red on first then airbrush a very thinnned down coat of white. does anybody know if this will work??

The undercoat is just to equalize the color, Sir. I do not know what color the plastic on that kit is, and if it is at all darkish, you would have to put on enough of the fabric color to cover it that you might well cover the streaking too. You can also get a decent result by spraying your fabric color on solid, and then dry-brushing with a pink composed of a brick red cut with your fabric color.