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lasermonkey

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About lasermonkey

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    Rivet Counter
  • Birthday 03/10/1966

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    http://www.photobucket.com/albums/1003/lasermonkey
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  • Location
    Rural Bedfordshire
  • Interests
    Music, vintage aviation, modelling, guitars, analogue synths, scifi, rachel weisz, amongst others
  1. Xtracolour/Xtracrylix, WEM Colourcoats and Lifecolour are my favourites. I find Aeromaster to be too beige, Humbrol 90 too "minty" and Tamiya too dark.
  2. I took a few when I was lucky enough to wander around in Duxford's Lanc a few years back. You can find them at www.photobucket.com/albums/1003/lasermonkey just go to the Avro Lancaster subfolder located on the left hand side. Hope this helps, Mark.
  3. Actually, the ICM '109 is more accurate than the Tamiya kit, which is a few mm too short. When they did the measurements, they must have measured along the thrust-line, as opposed to sitting on the ground. The ICM kit, which is based very heavily on the Tamiya kit, is spot-on in that respect. That being said, the moulding on the Tamiya kit is far crisper and it does go together much more easily. Then again, it's a bit more expensive. If you have money to throw around, use the ICM fuselage and Tamiya for the rest.
  4. The Tamiya Bf 109E, whilst a bit on the short side, builds up beautifully. The fit is stunningly good. It's rare for me not to need any filler at all on a kit, but this was one of them. Cheers, Mark.
  5. Can't upload images just yet, but I can briefly recap on the whinge-fest that appeared on Another Site. :blink: According to John from Aeroclub, the shape is pretty good, probably the best Mk I/II you'll get in 1/48th. The Tamiya kit has some difficult to eradicate problems (wing planform, shortness, chunkiness in fuselage cross section). On the Airfix kit, the rudder hinge line is half a mm too far back, the thrust line is .75mm too high, wing planform is pretty good. The ailerons would appear to be a touch too deep and the side access door could probably do with rescribing. Again, these
  6. From Hannants: Special Hobby 1/72 Fiat G.50, Fiat Cr.25 and Mavag Heja II Aeroclub 1/72 Spitfire Vc wings (x4) Techmod 1/32 FAA Corsair decals
  7. Both the Revell (the newer kit) and the Hasegawa 1/72 Hurricanes suffer in the canopy area. Hasegawa's looks way too small and, frankly, looks stupid. Revell's is too triangular when viewed from the front and there's also the lack of turtledecking under the extreme rear of the canopy (when closed). Sadly, the Hurricane is not well represented in 1/72. I usually go with the Airfix kit, because it's cheap and the thin nose (in plan) is only apparent from certain angles anyway. Maybe I should think about how to sort that out......
  8. Hiya, I built two MPM Spit XIXs together and what i did was drill out the ports and put some plastic card backing behind them. Once the whole model was filled, sanded and painted (and I found this kit to be very easy to put together for a limited run kit, especially the vac canopies) I painted the ports black and then, once dry, went over with some Krystal Kleer to represent the lens. It looked fine to me. Trying to fit a small, clear, plastic disc is going to be a major headache. Unless you have a punch and die set, i wouldn't go there! HTH, Mark.
  9. I (finally, no thanks to Parcel Farce) received three 21st Century 1/32 kits, namely the Ju 87B, Bf 109F and F4U-1. Including shipping, they cost me around a Tenner each. Bargain! :lol:
  10. I'm not sure I entirely agree here. While I use several manufacturers' paints to represent, for example, RAF Dark Green, there are certain dark greens that just don't look anything like the actual colour. Humbrol's No 30 is a case in point. It's just not anywhere near olive/brown enough, just as Graham says. Even taking into account fading (it tended to go browner, anyway) and "scale effect", it's just too far removed from the actual colour, or reasonably acceptable range of hues that colour would be. Cheers, Mark.
  11. Hiya, Both the FR. Mk XVIII and PR.XIX are avaliable from Ventura. Ventura probably make the most accurate late Spitfires in 1/72, but they are limited production kits. There is considerable work required to get them together (ie extremely thick flow lines on the inside surfaces of, well, everything!) but with the aid of a dremel tool and lots of patience, an excellent result can be achieved. I'm most of the way through their Mk 22 and despite the work, have really enjoyed it. It is a challenge, but I learnt a lot doing it. Alternatively, the old MPM XVIII can still be found occasionally on
  12. Totally agree! I did read an interesting post, some time back, where it was suggested that to improve the opacity of red or yellow, add a little of the appropriate colour to the white undercoat. I can't say I've tried it myself, but I'm intrigued. Cheers, Mark.
  13. I have one of those pieces of Tutor, along with a bit from the Pup and Southern Martlet. Cheers, Mark.
  14. You'd probably be better off asking this question over on Hyperscale's Plane talking, as Lynn Ritger (the author of said book) is often over there. HTH, Mark.
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