Jump to content

1/48 Tamiya Wildcat F-4F


Recommended Posts

Hi Folks,

The only goal I have was to build a 'simple' plane that is good enough for Tamiya competition this year ( which just ended a couple of weeks ago here in Singapore)....By 'good enough' I mean just better grading than the 1st time I took part last year..

So...here is my entry and it is delicated to Wildcat fans.....not sure if I got all the detail and research done correctly....Decal from Cutting Edge base on Lt Jim Swett, F4F-4, BuNo 12094, VMF-221 Guadalcanal

DSC00396.jpg

Well , as it turn out...IT was Good enough for the competition ! :coolio:

DSC00452.jpg

Along the way, I took some photos ...just for memory sake of the pain and toils of buiilding this model that I can pass on.

Link to post
Share on other sites

And here's the 1st part of the progress report ...delayed due to 'technical issue' with the PC :thumbsup:

DSC00082.jpg

As usual, start with the Tub

I Used Eduard PE set and

selective pieces only- seat belt, seat belt rod, panels and some switches

Retain kit seat rather than PE seat

…and remove a fair bit of flooring per Eduard instruction

DSC00090.jpg

Painted using Mr Color (Lacquer paint) Interior Green H340.

…and wash with oil paint Raw Umbra (since this will be a ground base plane rather than sea base plane)

DSC00085.jpg

Some dry brushing on control panel , front panel and seat

DSC00091.jpg

Relatively smooth assembly

Minor modifications…Needed to drill a couple of holes and added short metal bit for antenna wire support at the tail portion on each side

I use CA and Accelerator to fill out gaps …and re-scribe where ever appropriate

Tip: When Re-scribing Panel line, try using Hasegawa Try Tool ‘Saw’ rather than a scribing knife…much simpler!. Drop a droplet of glue on the re-scribe line to smooth out the surface.. It is easy to do and can be done on curve surfaces too!

DSC00092.jpg

….Replace molded guns with Brass Tube

Oh yes, mask the cockpit before you prime.

Tip…make sure you use the right type of liquid mask to mask the cockpit or you will be sorry when it comes to removing it…. There is a rubbery type which is good for painted surface but will stain the canopy….and another ‘sticky’ type for Canopy…which is hard to remove on painted surfaces but will not stain for canopy

DSC00094.jpg

Sand out the kit lights on belly per Kagero Monographs on Wildcat

Re-scribe Panel line at the tail end portion

There a big gap between the Wings and Fuselage…Fill it with Epoxy Putty rather than regular putty

Tip: Fill gap with Tamiya Epoxy Putty Quick Dry type and remove excess with Acrylic Thinner with cotton bud rather than regular putty and lacquer thinner …reasons 1. No smell, 2. very little shrinkage 3. can be re-scribe without cracking…Try it!

DSC00098.jpg

Painting Starts!... I use Mr Color US Navy Set H367 on Top and H57(?) grey for the underside…

Give it an even coat first and then….. Thin it with a few drop of white to provide the shadow….

DSC00099.jpg

Mask section by section with masking tape spray along the edge… Take your time….. You will love the 3-D effect!

You can do it on the wings too but I choose not to do it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Part 2......

DSC00100.jpg

Viola! Completed with painted 3-D painted effect (no lighting needed to show the high lights)

DSC00102.jpg

Port Side

DSC00101.jpg

Not forgetting the Wings…The control surfaces and removable panels are painted with a lighter tone

DSC00110.jpg

Added the black walk way stripes and ammo stain

PS. Note that the transparent landing light at the wing was glued on earlier than later per instruction to make it ‘merge’ in and avoid unsightly gap

BTW, the canopy mask is from Black Magic

DSC00112.jpg

Underside

Oh Yeah, …you can’t see it , but the landing gear have a small strip of bare metal foil wrap around the strut

DSC00117.jpg

Spinner painted using Alcald Aluminum…Nice and smooth!

DSC00120.jpg

Top View

DSC00121.jpg

Next…The “Delightful or Dreadful†Decal…

Don’t forget to give it a good coat of Gloss Coat first!

DSC00126.jpg

Good Decal Adhesion

Tip : To prevent silvering, shot Lacquer thinner on the decal rather than regular decal setting solution. Once the Decal start to wrinkle, stop applying the thinner and let it dry…. Lacquer thinner ‘dissolves’ the decal much better and deeper into the surface contour

DSC00128.jpg

The ‘pesky’ raise rivets….No problem at all using the Lacquer thinner process.. Phew!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Part 3.....

DSC00132.jpg

Ah!.. The ‘Star’ of the plane at the tail

DSC00133.jpg

Port side view

DSC00161.jpg

Top view

DSC00167.jpg

Done?...Nope

…Need Weathering Next

DSC00275.jpg

The Decal on the Prop deserves an additional layer of Gloss coat to ‘smooth’ out the decal thickness

DSC00278.jpg

Weathering 1st Pass…Dirt

Use diluted Earth color and spray around edges that typically gets step on. Your may want to reduce the air pressure to less than 10 psi if possible

DSC00279.jpg

Next, add water and oil stain on rivets locations

Mix oil paint and Thinner on a 50:50 basis

Drop a droplet on each panel and wait for a couple of minutes. Wipe using cotton bud

DSC00283.jpg

Don’t forget chipping.

I prefer to use a silver pencil and randomly knock on the leading edge, walk way strip and cockpit area…. Don’t over do it. Spend 1-2 minute each time and check if you have overdone it… the good thing is that the silver ‘paint’ can easily be remove

Link to post
Share on other sites

DSC00284.jpg

Oh, ..need to add the water stain at the belly…I spray it on rather than using oil paint

DSC00286.jpg

Don’t forget the underside of the wings too… use oil paint and cotton bud

DSC00287.jpg

….As well as the Engine area

DSC00298.jpg

Don’t forget the Insignia too on the tail as it is close to the ground where there is plenty of dirt

DSC00306.jpg

To enhance the rivets on the plane, dirt and water stain were also added to the rear and under side (even though it could hardly be seen when place on a flat surface…but then a sharp eye judge WILL notice it). Dot each rivet with oil paint, let dry and wipe it all at once with a piece of rag. Stop when you think it is good enough

DSC00349.jpg

Weathering DONE!

…Don’t forget to give it a Flat Coat spray

DSC00350.jpg

Adding Antenna wires….. using leftover plastic spruce

Tip : To get very fine wire, don’t just heat and pull and use the ‘thinnest’ portion…it will still be too thick and out of scale. The process: Burn though (melt) the spruce with a fire , quickly join the two burning ends and pull it apart just as quickly , you will be able to get very very fine stretch wire.

Tip : When fixing the wires onto the plane, you do not need to ‘tension’ it. Just make sure each end is secure with CA or whatever. Here’s the secret…. Light a wooden tooth pick with fire, blow out the fire to just a amber glow….bring the glowing tooth pick close to the wire…you will see the wire ‘snap tight’…like magic!.... It is a material property concept called elastic yield point of material

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...

:pray: Man, I drooled all over my keyboard. That is an amazing build. I can hardly wait to get home and try it. Just a side note: if you have an iPod, or iTunes, go to the store and get the History Channel's Dogfight episode "Guadlcanal." James Swett is interviewed and talks about his CMO mission, where he shot down 6 or 7 planes.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...