strikeeagle801 Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 Going to be picking up one of these soon...Looking for some advice. Anything would be appreciated. Build reviews, add-ons, etc. Aaron Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Parabat Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 What scale? If 1/48 I have a few lessons learned. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
toadwbg Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 (edited) There was a significant thread on Hboss vs Hasegawa in the last week here that covered most everything. Just search back a page or 2: Here it is: http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?showtopic=272858&st=0 Edited March 2, 2014 by toadwbg Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dryguy Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 ok here goes, hope this is helpful. will simply post a list of inaccuracies and how I would tackle them, 1. fill in most of the excess rivets 2. leave off the phoenix palletes, or make the front part more bulged (some major surgery) 3. intakes(a thread all by itself) open the engine bay doors. then remove a section where the intakes join the main fuselage, in order to make them more canted outwards. also swap the intake ramps. some very serious surgery but can be done, essentially what zactoman did with the trumpeter correction. alternately, put some steel beech intake covers almost hide this error. 4. buy a turned metal pitot, cut off the kit pitot from where it joins with the radome, the kits join is too far up the radome. 5. the rear part of tye canooy is too slanted, fairly simple to correct with some sanding and a styrene insert its up to you how much of this you wish to correct. Out of the box it is a straightforward and still nice build. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
strikeeagle801 Posted March 2, 2014 Author Share Posted March 2, 2014 What scale? If 1/48 I have a few lessons learned. Yes, 1/48. Sorry I didn't state that originally. Aaron Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 Here is a video WIP: Other episodes can be found easily on the related videos list. The videos are long and the commentary at times glorifies the kit a little too much I think, but you might find it useful. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Parabat Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Going to be picking up one of these soon...Looking for some advice. Anything would be appreciated. Build reviews, add-ons, etc. Aaron Hi Aaron, As promised I'll talk you through one or two of the 'gotchas' on these builds and throw up one or two ideas on A/M etc. - IFR probe. If you want to model this deployed (opened), you will need to scratch an actuator and a small light box (to illuminate the probe tip and basket during permissive night refueling). Have a look for maintenance or in-flight pictures to see what you'll need to add. Minor niggle. If you want to model it closed but with the probe panel off (a la many pictures of OIF/OEF birds), you will need to chop away at the forward part of the bay in order to allow the probe lie in the stowed position. A little judicious dry fitting will sort you out, make sure you do this BEFORE you close up the forward fuselage halves. - Cockpit. Cockpits are well represented in all three iterations of the HB kits, though the -B and -D are both 'late' models in that they are good to go for 2002 and onwards birds with correct (if somewhat clunky HUDs). I would add a small bit of copper wire around the forward IP coaming to represent the de-mister and perhaps add the instrumentation on the left and right forward windscreen frame (standby compass, ACLS warning light, something else I think too..) GRU-7 seats have the same 'problem' as just about all GRU-7 seaats do - the ribbed cushions. Either putty over, stick Band-Aid over or get some really tasty Verlinden seats! - Landing Gear. 1st up, the nose landing gear. No light. It has the mount, but no clear part. Easy to fix, but a little annoying. There is no representation of the Approach Indexer lights (Red, Amber, Green) on the part, but an easy one to paint on. The nose landing gear axle is too wide, so shorten either side gradually to get it right. Annoyingly, in the instructions, it wants you to build in the gear during construction, so you will need to trim the stubs off the top Y shapes of the strut to be able to insert this later (after painting). Also, the fit of the wheels is really tight on the axles, so if you paint the axles, make sure to remove the paint before fitting the wheels. 2nd, MLG. Once again, instructions would have you build the kit with the landing gear fitted, so trimming the side stubs off the top of the Y shape will allow you to mount these after paint. - Boarding steps. Apart from the forward one being in the wrong position (fixable if you're modelling them closed as you can putty over and rescribe), the F-14 moulds are commonly moulded so there is a reinforcement plate moulded around the rear step. Not actually a bad thing, as otherwise you'd have to build one up yourself or get the Cross Delta enhancement. I beleive these were NOT on the F-14A's at any time, only some of the F-14B's and -D's, but check your references of the plane you'd like to model. The steps are also way too thin if you model them open - add an equal thickness layer of plasticard to bulk them up. - Flaps 'n Slats. Not a problem if you want a build a with it all hanging out, as it comes ready for that. The problem comes when you want it closed... You will need to sand down the slat ledge on the wing and dry fit until you're happy the slat will fit flush. With the flaps, trim the hinges and drry fit the cove door (the underside thin strip - see HERE) until you're happy. You will probably need to sand or smooth the flap links down on the upper side as they project a little high when everything is 'up'. - Wing mounting. HB provide quite a nice detailed wing mounting mechanism - useless if you're modelling it closed, but the positive is that there is a really sturdy mount for the wing. The instructions would have you mount the wing before closing the fuselage up - a problem for later painting. I simply cut out about 1/3 of the mounting ring, which allowed a 'snap fit' onto the mounting post later, throught the open glove sealing plates. Part II coming soon. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Parabat Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Part II - Intakes. Ah, the dreaded things. Why they got them wrong, we'll never know. These are undoubtedly 'off' as the lower lip is not parallel to the upper lip of the intake. All of which makes it Satan's own spawn to some, inconsequential to others. I'm somewhere inbetween, but would love it if someone made a corrected intake or HB provided replacement intakes... Anyway, you would be advised to sand the inside bottom lip of the intake down as it is too thick anyway. The mounting holes for the fuel tanks are too far forward - I re-drilled locating holes by eye (about 5mm, IIRC) for mine, but if left as-is, the fuel tanks will sit too far forward. They also appear too central on the kit, so I drilled mine 1-2mm off centreline, but don't overdo it or you could have interference later with the MLG struts. Don't place the intake ramps in place before you place the intakes. This will allow you to fill the seam on the inner side of the intake funnel. If you want the ramps in the 'supersonic position', ie. as per the kit, then the ramps will cover the side seam. If you want the ramps 'flat' and the intake funnel open, you'll also need to cut the ramps and don't bother with installing any of the actuators for the ramps. This will let them lie flush. There exists the same 'problem' as the Hasegawa F-14's - how to make seamless intakes! It's genuinely not that difficult to achieve, but will require a bit of effort and a lot of sanding. - Tails. These are all the same, ie. late versions with the layered triangulated plated on the top of the fins, not the two diamond shaped plates on the early Tomcats. Annoyingly, the tails mount on an odd split to the fuselage, so it's preferable, for a clean seam, to mount before painting. Some people prefer to paint the tail seperately, then mount later, but I fear you might not get such a great result with that method on this kit. - Pitot. I would recommend, gluing the kit pitot on, snapping it off, sanding it down and using a Master brass pitot replacement. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
toadwbg Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 great stuff should be Pinned! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Parabat Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 great stuff should be Pinned! Ha ha, thanks, it'll need some decent editing if it's to be pinned! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Parabat Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Part III (final) - Rivets. These kits are known for their infamous amount of rivets, a lot of them in the wrong place (most prominently the stabs, or staiblators). I'd recommend filling with a fairly liquid substance like Mr Surfacer 500, or if you can't be arsed filling and sanding, then a wipe or two with Tamiya Extra Thin or Mr Cement S to 'melt' the riveting down some and soften the appearance. - Engine shrouds. The -B and -D have the GE engine shrouds, which thankfully are smooth, unlike the Hasegawa which have the PW ribbing. The only drama is the 'soft' edging of the shroud to the aft of the stabs - it just blends right in to the carbon case. Some judicious masking or even a quick scribe will set this right. I masked mine (the strange looking stuff on the Abe Lincoln decal is MicroSol) - Arrestor hook. The arrestor hook is, like the Hasegawa offering, a tad long. It's quite an easy fix though - cut about 2-3mm out of the length. Voila. Also, the actual hook can do with a bit of carving out to create a more rounded 'hook'. The arrestor hook mount has a poorly rendered dump pipe. I removed the 'pipe' and added a small section of sprue. This was drilled out and then shaped by carving and sanding to get a realistic looking dump pipe. - LTS (LANTIRN) Pod. The LTS pod is quite nice, with some good detail apart from the vent being on the top of the rear, not the bottom. Easy fix once again - fill the top, scribe the bottom! (Yes, I only saw this once I'd painted it, so shoot happens!) - BRU-32 bombracks. Frustratingly, these are good representations, but only come with two in the box! They also have a strange casting, so need filling - frustrating again, but not insurmountable. - Loadouts. The HB kits come with some impressive loadouts - but most of it is for the ammo dump. The forward Phoenix pallets are clearly not 'deep' enough, but the rest of the weapons rails seem pretty good and comprehensive to me. LAU-7 and LAU-138 are well represented. The GBU-31 JDAM is ok, the AIM-9L/M's superb (there is a seperate sprue of two very well detailed 'winders), the AIM-7M's are great, the AIM-54's just need the weird forward and centre 'driving bands' removing to make them good. The GBU-10/12 is more an older GBU. The Mk.82's are ok, and the AGM-84's just not applicable! The Mk.82's and the JDAM's will need an ablative coating manufacturing if you are that into detail, and I'd recommend Mr Surfacer 500 stippled on to create this effect. There are a multitude of AM weapons available, so shop around. I'd recommend North Star models' AIM-54's and GBU-38 500lb JDAMS (already with ablative coating!) - but remember that not all Bombcats got to fly with the GBU-38. The SJU-17 seats OOB are pretty good, even the PE details are nice and soft brass, not SS. Rearview mirrors are seperate, which makes placement easier than the Hasegawa 'ring of steel'. Masking idea for the non-slip walkway: I simply masked the walkway, then sprayed over with a 'thick' mix of black, on a low pressure, to achieve a worn looking surface on the intake tops. Aftermarket. Wheels - Wheeliant by Aires has just released F-14A resin wheels for HB, they already have the later -B/-D wheels released - very nice they are too Pitot - Master brass pitot and AOA are super updates. Wolfpack Designs Bombcat update - complete pallets, BRU-32's, LTS and pylon, LAU-138's. Decals - Fightertown Decals ONLY please! (ok, I used TB 'cos FT hadn't yet released their awesome Felix Final Flight...) GBU's - Northstar models for GBU-38's, AMRAAM Line for GBU-12's. Both come with the ablative coating already applied. Seats - Verlinden for GRU-7's, and I'd use Quickboost for the SJU-17's as they're Aires seats with the belts cast in resin ;-) Exhausts - Aires for PW and GE. SHULL or Dr Pepper for just GE cans. Wheel bays - Aires Canopy masks - Eduard Fuel tanks - Wolfpack Designs or Royale Resin And that folks, is that! All I can think of for now. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
strikeeagle801 Posted March 4, 2014 Author Share Posted March 4, 2014 Thank you very much for the comprehensive review Parabat. I'm a little bit overwhelmed by everything...Not sure if an F-14 (of any sort!) is in my realm of abilities right now. Again, I appreciate the help though. Aaron Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Parabat Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 Thank you very much for the comprehensive review Parabat. I'm a little bit overwhelmed by everything...Not sure if an F-14 (of any sort!) is in my realm of abilities right now. Again, I appreciate the help though. Aaron Hi Aaron, no problem, I was a little in awe when I was reading about all the Hasegawa and HB F-14 reviews. I decided to jump in at the deep end with a Hasegawa Tomcat. You'll be surprised at what you're capable of! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChippyWho Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 All good points; however I have the Aires 'Wheeliant' wheels (B/D variety) and they look too wide. Also, the tyre sidewalls have some deep recesses that will need filling... (Apologies for the lousy photo, but it shows what I mean!) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Parabat Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 Hmmm, just checked mine and they are indeed wider than the kit wheels and the Wheeliant F-14A wheels. The hubs are different too. My examples don't have the sidewall issues though. Did the GE engined Tomcats have wider wheels due to increased airframe weight? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Darren Roberts Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 Something else I haven't seen brought up is that the NACA vents for the gun are too close together. Steel Beach has a replacement piece for it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.