ChippyWho

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About ChippyWho

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    Pushing the envelope of mediocrity...

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  1. ...Oh HELL no -never sprayed the stuff in me life! It levels itself out, so just use a soft, flattish brush slightly moistened with water and apply sparingly with slow strokes -this will avoid bubbles forming. Come back 20 minutes later and it's all smooth and satiny. If you'd rather spray it, I heard tell that it's best done at really high pressure (maybe as high as 30-40 psi!) and sort of wafted on from a safe distance while the airbrush is kept moving swiftly back and forth across the target area. As to 'proper' colors, I usually fudge up something that looks vaguely like the best photos I can find. But then I have a largish drawer-cabinet stuffed with all manner of paints accrued over the years -wonder how they all got there...?! (Something to do with being unable to leave a model store empty-handed!)
  2. With its erm, distinctive design, would it not look fab in heavily weathered/faded SEA colors with bright red extremities? Voila: a QF-107!
  3. Really the seat belt protocol is down to whatever you find easiest -for unprinted ones, I think I'd go for attachment then painting. You probably know this already, but any detail painting is best achieved by doing the base color first, then sealing with Future/Klear when it is fully dry. The belts (or whatever) can then be painted with enamels and any stray paint can be wicked off with a pointy brush slightly (very slightly!) moistened with clean white spirit, ideally before it dries completely, without affecting the base paint. Also, if you have a super-pointy brush, where applicable you can carefully remove the enamel from the metal fittings, so you don't need to paint them. A bit of outlining/profiling with artist's oils or whatever, then final clear finish of your choice and you're done. *One thing I just learned the painful way* is NOT to use Revell enamel thinner instead of white spirit for clean-up -danged stuff chewed right through the enamel, the Klear barrier, the acrylic base color and looked like it was gonna take out half the bare resin underneath! FWIW, I've pretty much given up on metal harnessware anyway -it is almost impossible to get it to drape convincingly, although I haven't yet sampled Eduard's newish thin steel items. I tend to go for resin seats with everything cast in, or attach narrow masking tape (jammydog.com has a selection of PVC or paper types) with superglue at the ends. Then I scalpel off the fasteners/adjusters from etched ones and stick 'em at strategic points! I can't replicate the lovely stitching on printed ones, but you can rarely see much of that on most real ones anyway, and the colors used by Eduard always look a bit weird to me... Have fun!
  4. I dunno either! I just pushes the button, guv'nor...but even with it totally switched off, all I get is 'This site can't be reached' on Chrome. My ANDROID phone, however, cracks it without a murmur -go figure! Now, I'm sure I saw Firefox (not the movie) in one of the drawers on this PC...will give that a shot too.
  5. Interesting...! (In deference to the sensibilities of fellow ARC connoisseurs, I won't share my tempera on gesso FW 190.)
  6. OK, thanks Sir -must be something my side. Ad-Blocker+ is making some other pages a little shaky, but even disabling it won't bring MM to life! Maybe I'll try it on me phone...
  7. I'm not sure p/e bits make a better model; they make a somewhat more filigree one with a bit of effort! I'm addicted to the stuff, and seem to ram masses of it into anything that will stand still long enough. First thing to note is that given the requirement to form some of it into 3D shapes, and given its insubstantial nature, unless you have a phenomenal natural dexterity you WILL trash a few bits at first. Don't let it put you off, just mark it down to experience. Going on from what dnl42 says^ (which is all excellent), things I found out: 1. Folding/shaping bits: I never used specific tools, rollers, etc. A flat steel rule, fine tweezers, scalpel blades and handles plus a set of flat-blade jeweller's screwdrivers work fine for me. You may find otherwise; it's all a matter of preference. If you're rolling something down to a size, roll it around something a wee bit smaller -there is a bit of spring in brass that will pop it up a size after rolling. 2. Forget trying to position fiddly li'l bits (levers, etc.) with tweezers or forceps -it's like shaving with a lawn-mower. Get a toothpick and put a tiny (and I mean tiny!) blob of BluTak on one end. That will work much better, and for longer, than those cheesy 'pick & place' tools you see hawked around. I now have half a dozen of the things in a box to keep 'em dust free, with incrementally sized BluTak heads -the largest is the size of a pea, to accommodate everything from instrument panels down to the zip tab on the pilot's pants... 3. Put the adhesive on the target surface, not the p/e part. For this, I find a #20 hypo needle or the white, pointy plastic toothpicks ideal for fine control. I always decant drops of cyano adhesive into the little blisters that medicines come packed in for easy transfer -yessir, pills, tablets and hypo needles: you and your pharmacist will be on great terms! 4. Installing the Naughty Stuff after painting everything else: sometimes, there is no other practical way. Gator's Grip is fine, but actually you can get cyano to work without wrecking everything if you have applied a clear varnish (Future/Klear or some clear acrylic finishes like Xtracrylic Satin). Obviously, you need to use very small amounts of adhesive... 5. Eduard's self-adhesive p/e stuff...isn't! Well, not in any serious way. Use a dab of glue as well. 6. Ready color-printed parts need sealing with Future/Klear before you even touch them. Ask me how I know... Anything else you need to know, you will surely pick up along the way. Or you'll decide you'd rather stick that #20 hypo in your eye. Etched brass sets are divisive like that. If you learn to love them as I do, you're probably pretty much finished as a hooman bean... Anyway, give it a go, and HTH.
  8. Can't seem to get anything at all there for a few days now. Everything else is working fine...
  9. Excellent work, and a very interesting comparison.
  10. Wicked! I really love that paintwork; it suits The Sea Beast perfectly.
  11. Lovely! Must get around to mine one day...
  12. AIRES Instrument Panel almost done...yes, it even says 'DRAG CHUTE' on the uhm, drag chute toggle! There seems to be an issue here with Flickr 'share' links, so back to the soul-crushing slowness and sea of pop-ups that is Photobucket...UNTIL I TURNED ON GOOGLE AD-BLOCKER PLUS -DUUUHHH! The experience is...enlightening?
  13. YES!!! Have to get me a brace of them!
  14. A very interesting scheme. Like yourself, I can't wait to see it finished!
  15. Well Jari...that is AWESOME!!! Many, many thanks -I have a little light reading for the long summer evenings now!