Monogram F-106 OOB

[Impatient Pete]

Hi Guys,

Here are a few pics of my Monogram 106. I posted this thread in Jet Modelling at first, but I

think it should be here (It's not an F-16 or Superhornet ).

So back to the model.

For the wheel wells...MM green zinc chromate, then Future, then a wash with of black and rust MM enamels and Testors Brush Cleaner. Then Polly Scale flat clear to seal the wash, then a drybrush of MM GZC mixd with yellow and radome tan. I like to seal the wash with a flat acrylic so that the drybrush doesn't pick up any of the dark wash pigment and mix it with the lighter drybrush color and make mud. Also, I use a flat clear to seal, so that the surface has a little "tooth".

Then I went back with yellow (plus a tiny amount of GZC) and thinned it so it is almost more of a glaze and brushed some of the larger pipes and boxes. Also, at that time, the silver plumbing was picked out. The anodized fittings were painted with testors steel (in the small bottle) and when dry, were overcoated with Tamiya clear red and clear blue.

What I like to do to avoid alot of masking is this: Before assembly, I paint the area around the opening that would need masked later, with the color that the finished model will be on the outside. In this case, I painted the bottom of the wing with ADC gray. I extend it out to past the panels around the area. Then I flipped it over and painted the inside of the part with GZC. Done. Then of course, the wheel wells detailed inner surfaces get completely painted and detailed. Then the wing gets glued together. This way, when I am doing the overall painting, I can just avoid the area entirely, because the area around the wheel wells is allready painted, the wells themselves are allready painted too. I do the same with cockpits and everything else that I can.

That's it. I am trying to do all of the little stuff at once, so that when I get out of summer classes, I can "throw" the rest together in a couple o' days.

Edited July 30, 2005 by Impatient Pete

[Impatient Pete]

And the painting method:

[Impatient Pete]

And the seat:

[Impatient Pete]

I would thoroughly reccomend this kit to anyone who is man enough to not fear a little putty and fitting.

[Impatient Pete]

Because the detail is excellent!

[Impatient Pete]

Here is my fix for a problem that I remember from the first time I built this kit in the '80's. The collapsing wing underside. The problem is that the mating surface for the underside...well...doesn't. That is, it doesn't really mate to anything. The aileron actuator fairing acts as a stop, but the rest of the part just hangs ther. Liking a little more rigidity in my models, I added this strip of styrene as a mating surface against which I can glue the upper wing.

One other thing, If you glue the lower wing to the fuselage first, you can totaly eliminate any gap there, and thus any need to fill and sand at the wing root or entire upper wing surface. Nice Just press the wing to the fuse and apply liquid glue and hold.

Edited July 30, 2005 by Impatient Pete

[model_madness]

Fabulous detail here Pete

Any tips on how you painted the pipes and small details so neatly?

[FlyingSnowmew]

Amazing F-106! Great work on the detail! I've always loved the look of the F-106 and I can't wait to see this one finished!

[Pete "Pig" Fleischmann]

Wow Pete-That wheel well looks fantastic! Looking forward to seeing more!

Regards,

Pig

[maydaypc]

Great painting job Pete!

Do you think you could share with us about how you paint those lovely pipes?

I really wonder how you ended up with so stunning paint job.

[Impatient Pete]

NOOOOoooooooo!

One of my old unfinished threads comes back to haunt me. One of my greatest fears (not really) is that someone will go back and look up all of my unfinished threads and get the picture that I never finish anything...

Anywayyyy-

The plumbing is easy. The wash really helps things. It hides any rough edges so that really only the tops of the pipes need color. Basically, paint the base color, seal it, apply the wash. I do the wash before I paint the detail so the detail colors will stay "bright" and not get muddied by the wash.

Then, when you paint the details, hold the brush at a low angle and use the side of the tip of the brush and not just the very tip. This will help you if you don't have the best aim or a steady hand.

Oh, I jusy realized that I described my technique in the first post. It's been so long.

The other thing you can do is almost drybrush the silver, then go back and clean the whole area up with the base color and a wet brush.

Pete

[chriss7606]

Hey, I have a couple of 'sixes' going right now myself! I agree- the Monogram kit is excellent and I recommend it as well. I'll be doing at least a Michigan and New Jersy bird. Any ideas on markings yet? Looks great so far!

[Impatient Pete]

Sounds like another 106 GB going on here. Here's another one-

http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index....16456&st=15

No idea on the markings yet, but plenty of cool lookin options-

Pete

Edited April 7, 2007 by Impatient Pete

[Maveryck]

Nice detail on wheel well. I just bought the 106 this past week. It'll be my next build or may be the one after...anyway...I was looking at the post where you put that strip of styrene in -- where exactly did you put it? I couldn't tell from the pic.

Maveryck

Edit -- Never mind I just figured it out...

Edited April 8, 2007 by Maveryck

[Da Ole Guy]

One point on my part as a former Six Fixer. The small cylidrical units in the wheel wells are mostly sensors and transmitters. I know the hydraulic pressure transmitters were there These were generally flat black and not silver or aluminum in color. Much of the small tubing was painted OD (some was aluminum in tone, but other lines high pressure flex lines in a dull grey metalic tone, not silver. Any, box, pumplike unit was also black in color. Stuts are white on Sixes. Hope this helps folks.

Da Ole Guy

Edited August 26, 2007 by Da Ole Guy