Sidney

Thanks! (no modelling presents this year though )

awesome

you are using too much airpressure and/or not thinned enough paint! you can see it from the grainy surface next to the -er- thingy (lol) no worries though - you can carefully smooth it out with a sanding sponge or similar as to the Future - I spray it at full strength, but you could add a tiny drop of liquid dish washer detergent and/or some (distilled) water don't forget to clean your airbrush directly after spraying - I tear it down complety under running hot water and soak the parts in the sink (use the rubber thingy, lol) with some strong floor cleaning stuff (windex is popular in the U

thanks - this was meant as a 'quick-build' to get back into modeling more (last couple of years I spent more time running/cycling/martial arts) but it turned into a real test of self-discipline :D

I use normal drinking straws to transfer paint: dip it in the paint as far as you can, and hold your index finger over the hole (a moist finger helps) - remove the straw, hold it over the 'target' and release your finger; the paint will drop out :-) don't be tempted to suck the straw to get more in. Turpentine tastes AWFUL! Euh... I heard... ;-)

I had the exact same thing with the(ir) Vigilante... but I do want the Su-24 now!

thanks all :-) just noticed the Display Case, sorry... @Iron Man: what do you mean with profile shots? side, head-on and such?

I was just doing some research this morning (the F-14 will be my next build) and must say the weathering is even understated! (seriously!) Super!

Well, it is finally finished. I never ever had a model fighting me in this way... each step was cumbersome! But I stuck with it and needed to be creative to solve some head-breakers. The Aires pit is beautiful, but needed some work to get it to fit but it turned out great. First time I used Mr Surfacer - what a disaster! But after inventing some new curse words I got it to spray properly, only to find out it can't stand alcohol... Pre-shading went perfect, as did the base coats. Then the troubles really started: I bought the Hobbydecal set which contains dry-transfers. This was a first time f

I bought this set some months ago and must say I found it very difficult to use. The poster is super as is the alignment of the decals. But many of the dry-transfer would simply not release from the backing paper (especially the coloured ones). I tried to apply them to the matt gray paint: no deal; sprayed 2 coats of Future: no deal; 2 coats of MM flatcoat: no deal (I rubbed through this coat when I tried again). I tried warming the sheets just prior to application (a tip received on this board) and again, to no avail I ended up applying the dry-transfers to some clear decal sheet and (after

Hi Alexander - thanks for the link! I'll try the suggestion made by Fred Thanks for the quick response - spasiba

Hi guys, Long time lurker here - learned a lot from you lot, but now I have a question of my own... Been working on my Hasegawa F-4J (w Aires cockpit) for some time - everything went pretty well; got the cockpit to fit , seams are gone, pre-shading is subtle, wash is subdued etc. Now I am at the decaling stage - having bought HobbyDecal's set with the VF-84 markings, this is the first time I am facing dry-transfers. I applied a couple of coats of Future (smuggled from the US) and the waterslides in the package went on perfectly (some DACO setting solution helped loads - the exception bein

I like to mask off those parts I don''t want to putty and use a high-tech applicator (i.e. my index finger) to apply the putty wiping away excess putty with a nail polish remover soaked q-tip will fill the seam and reduce sanding to a minimum!