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marvin20

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About marvin20

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    F-15 Eagle Enthusiast
  • Birthday 12/26/1958

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    qpt3700

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    South Euclid, OH
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    Aircraft 1/72, 1/48, 1/32
    Armor 1/35

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  1. Have you tried www.sealmodel.com This is where I usually get my Mr. Color/Mr. Hobby paints from. Their pricing for these paints can't be beat. Here's a link to the start of the Gunze Mr. Color line of paints. There are 5 pages to go through. http://www.sealmodel.com/products.php?category_id=158 HTH
  2. I was wondering if anyone here in the forums has recently received any orders from Hobbyworld USA? I currently have 2 orders in with them, one having been placed on 31 Dec 2019, and the other on 14 Jan 2020. I've sent a couple of messages asking for an update on the status of these orders (last one sent two weeks ago) and have gotten no reply at all. In my previous experience with placing and receiving orders from them, it has never taken this long before, nor has it taken this long for them to reply to inquiries about the status of an order. Hoping that everything is okay.
  3. I've had some great success using this product by AMMO: I get mine from SprueBrothers: AMM2051 AMMO by Mig Lucky Varnish - Matt (60ml) https://store.spruebrothers.com/product_p/amm2051.htm HTH
  4. Are these designed to fit a specific kit? Or will they fit on both the Hasegawa and Kinetic F-104 kits?
  5. If these symbols appear on the painting instructions pages at the end of the instructions, the "gradients" as you call them will correspond to those areas on the model that should be painted that color. For example, if the underside of the model has the gradient listed for D, then it would be painted the color that is called out for the letter D, and the topside would be painted E. The paint colors for each letter in the flag are listed at the beginning of the instructions. If it was a three color camouflage pattern on the topside of the model, then you'd have additional paint callouts with different "gradients" associated with each color, so that you'd know what to paint each section of the camouflage in. See Pages 12 - 13 in these instructions: http://www.plasticandplasters.com/Instructions/manuals/revell-instructions-04394.pdf Hope this helps! QT
  6. I have tried spraying Mission Model paints through an Iwata Eclipse, Badger Khrome, and Badger Sotar 20/20 all with the .2 mm tips and have found the following to occur. If I am spraying a single color, I have no issues when airbrushing. It is when I need to switch to another color, say the tri-color scheme on Vietnam era Phantoms. I will run some of their thinner through the airbrush to clean out any let over paint from the first color, and then put in the second color, and I get sputtering from the airbrush. If I strip the airbrush and give it a thorough cleaning before spraying the second color, I have no issues. I have both the Khrome and Sotar airbrushes with .3 mm tip/needles (yes, a second second of airbrushes) that I have sprayed Mission Model paints through, and have not had the issue of paint sputtering, after running thinner through it and spraying the second and third coats through them. I also have a Badger Patriot that I use, and have had no issue with spraying Mission Model paints with it. I've only encountered problems spraying Mission Model paints with the very fine tip/needle arrangements (.2 mm). I can spray lacquer/solvent based paints such as Gunze, Tamiya, and Mr. Paint without any issues with the .2 mm tips/needles, just run some lacquer thinner or isopropyl alcohol through it between different paint colors and away I go. QT
  7. If you are looking to purchase items and get them quickly, I would suggest these two websites, both of these suppliers are located in the US and have quick turnaround on orders and great customer service: SCALEHobbyist https://www.scalehobbyist.com/index.php Sprue Brothers Models http://spruebrothers.com/ Now, if you are looking for an item, that you can wait to come to you, I would suggest Lucky Model https://www.luckymodel.com/ They can ship things out right away if they are in stock, but they are located in Hong Kong, and shipping can be expensive. However, they occasionally will offer $10 flat rate surface shipping to the US, and this is where the wait time comes in, as it can take 2 months or more for the items to arrive on your doorstep, and this is if the items are in stock and ready to be shipped to you. My experiences with Lucky has been that my items arrive exactly 2 months from the time I get the shipment notification. Two other places to buy model kits from are: Hannants -- located in the United Kingdom https://www.hannants.co.uk/ They have access to all of the kits manufactured in Europe, and pricing is very reasonable, however, shipping costs are pretty steep. Hobby Link Japan https://hlj.com/?SID=dinf28bt4486m36d5l11car9b0 Another good place to get models from, again shipping costs can be steep And finally, if you are looking to purchase Gunze Brand paints, I get mine from this online supplier, as no one can beat their prices on paints, and that place is: Seal Model http://www.sealmodel.com/ Hope this helps!
  8. Curt, No problem. I hope that you are able to finally use your double action airbrushes soon. I personally disassemble my airbrushes after each airbrushing session and clean it with either 90% or greater Isopropyl Alcohol, or lacquer thinner. I first spray a cup full of these through the airbrush to ensure that I have gotten most of the paint out of the system. Then I will take it to my bench, take it apart and clean the tip, needle, cup and exterior with cotton buds (Q-Tips) and a dampened (with alcohol) piece of paper/kitchen towel. If I am spraying multiple colors during that session, I will only run alcohol or lacquer thinner through the airbrush in-between the different colors and at the end of the painting session strip/clean the airbrush before putting it away. I'm sure that one you disassemble the airbrush a few times, it will help reduce the anxiety you have towards doing so. You can also check with some fellow modelers in your area, I'm sure they would be willing to either show you how, or be there to watch and guide you as you disassemble the airbrush and reassemble it. I see that you live in the Las Vegas area, are you a member of the IPMS/Las Vegas club? If so, do you know Ken Krieger? He used to be a member of the IPMS/John H. Glenn club that I belong to here in the Cleveland, OH area.
  9. Curt, I wound up with so many airbrushes just due to shear luck, I guess. I started off with my trusty Badger 350 single action airbrush, had that for decades before trying a double action airbrush, which was the Iwata Eclipse. I had been using Model Master enamel paints with good results with my trusty 350, then decided I wanted to try acrylic paints, and tried using Vallejo Model Color paints with the Iwata, with horrible results. Switched back to enamels, using the Iwata, and was able to get some pretty thin lines with it, and started using it exclusively for all of my airbrushing needs. Then I went to the 2009 IPMS Nationals in Columbus, Ohio and made the mistake of visiting the Badger Airbrush booth, where I and my dear friend got to play with the Badger Renegade. What an airbrush! I was hooked, bought one as soon as I got home, was able to find an online coupon to get it for 40% off. It was the old design, where the hole for the needle wasn't locate at the bottom of the cup, and therefore there were issues getting all of the paint out of the cup without holding it at an uncomfortable angle. So, I saw that they had changed the design and made it better, but hadn't decided if I wanted to get one. In the meantime, a stroke of luck occurred, I saw that Amazon was selling the Badger Sotar around Christmas time and I got one for the unheard of price of $40 USD!!!! I absolutely love using this airbrush, the only drawback is the size of the paint cup and it not having a cap to cover the cup, which if you weren't careful you could spill paint out of the cup onto the subject you were painting! Then I had issues with my Renegade and Sotar, had to send them back for servicing, so I went back to using the Eclipse while they were being serviced. Bought the first Patriot then to be able to paint large subjects as the tip size is much larger than the Sotar and Renegade. I then got my additional 2 Khromes and 2 Sotars during their Birthday sale that Badger ran, where you could order as many airbrushes as you wanted for $57 USD, I think. But one of each of the Khromes and Sotars have a .2mm tip and the other ones have a .3mm tip. I have since added Mission Model paints, which are a true acrylic paint to my inventory, and I find that I am able to get longer airbrushing periods using the .3mm tip, before the tip clogs, than I do with the .2mm tip. I use the Patriot to paint large models when they are single/two colors (i.e.: Olive Drab over Neutral Grey), or painting armor kits. I use the .2mm tip airbrush when I am spraying Gunze or Tamiya paints, as I can thin them and get some really fine lines with it.
  10. I have the following double action airbrushes: 3 Badger Khromes, 3 Badger Sotars, 2 Badger Patriots, 1 Iwata Eclipse, and 1 Badger 350 single action airbrush. 😲
  11. I haven't tried their primer, I know that it does require thinning for sure. I've used the Badger Stynylrez primer. And have had no issues with any interactions between this primer and the Mission Model paints. http://www.squadron.com/Badger-3-2-oz-Tone-Pack-White-Grey-Black-BGS-p/bgsnr210.htm
  12. EightyDuce, I have used Mission Model paints and they are unlike any other acrylic paints out there. You must use only their thinner with their paints, and actually you don't need it at all. If you do use it, it's like 1 - 2 drops for every 15 - 20 drops of paint. Before purchasing any and using it, go to their website and print the instructions on how to use it. Here's the link to it: https://www.missionmodelsus.com/pages/tips-and-tricks-faq I found that I could spray it fairly well to do a camouflage pattern on a Boulton Paul Defiant: I have not tried to spray really fine lines with it yet, so I cannot comment on how well it does in that area. I typically set my air pressure to around 15 psi and use a Badger Khrome airbrush to paint with. I've also used Alclad and they are great paints, but I have also used the Xtreme Metal paints by AK Interactive and I must say that I like these better than the Alclad. Here's a link to them: https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/browse.php?kw=xtreme,metal Happy modelling! HTH
  13. Thanks Tom! It was a fun build! Ready to do another of these Eduard Hellcats, they go together very well. QT
  14. Thanks Tom! It was a great kit to build.
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