James H

I'm going to pull of out this GB as this kit is awful and requires deication and extreme attention to detail to make it viable. It certainly isn't inspiring me at the moment, so I'm off to build an Me 163 Komet!

Keep away from the Roden 1/32 Airco DH-2...

Sorry about the delays guys, but I just got back from holiday. This is gonna be unusual; a build with absolutely ZERO aftermarket stuff. I had high hopes for this bird, especially having 2 other Roden kits, and the reputation Roden have acquired. I have to say my first impressions aren't good. I have found the kit to be covered in flash; parts misaligned when moulded, and the detail very soft in lots of cases. Locating pins and holes are so misformed or shallow as to be of no use. This going to be a real FUN build First up, the obligatory box and bits shots: Here's a pic of a sprue o

I'm glad you got more luck than I did. I emailed them several times regarding some 'ommissions' in the 1/48 Do 335 set and I wasn't even considered worthy of any reply at all

Just a few more shots for you. Thanks for all your kind comments.

My kit has just been delivered from Jadar Hobby in Warszawa, so as soon as I get back from my hols in 2 weeks, I'll start this build. First impressions are fair. Looks a lovely model with some bad flaws such as massive ejection pin marks in the fuselage. I intend to remove all the interior detail and scratch it anyway so no worries. I may line the exterior with very fine tin foil and crumple it around the wing join. Either way, it is still a very nice kit, and with some love and care should look just fine.

How long are you leaving the wash for? It sounds like the wash is being drawn out by cappiliary action as it may be too thin and not dry enough to remove. You tried oils? They are so much easier.

The Dora is almost complete and 3 months at are near to a close, thank God! I still have to figure out how to do the resin hardstand base I have and the figures. The engine is mounted, and that took the most time. I found an issue with the bearers which mean that when they were mounted to the engine, and then to the bulkhead, the engine pointed downwards. I swear I had done everything to make sure this was correct, even comparison with the Bentley drawings. I had to pack the lower strust point on each bearer up by about 1mm to get the engine to the correct elevation. I still have to add the

Beautiful Peashooter....nice finish and display too.

Post shading is artistic licence anyway, and your Dora looks bloody fantastic. Keep that up!

I just use Tamiya XF2 thinned 50:50, and over a nice white primed surface if possible.

Very nice indeed. Lovely finish.

That's how I feel about the HP-C+

DARN!!!

The engine is about 80% complete. At the moment, it's had a base of Magnesium Alclad, with a misting of Dark Aluminium Alclad, and shading is with heavily thinned Tamiya black XF2. The supercharger was sprayed XF2 and then misted with Dark Aluminium Alclad also, with other work done in White Aluminum Alclad. I still need to do some work on the ancilliary kit on the engine as well as weather the exhausts and manifolds and then do a final oil wash. Here she is so far:

With any luck, the engine work will be posted tomorrow. I've had some trials and tribulations with trying to make it look presentable, and it's been an Alcad fest here for the last day. The magnesium Alclad I originally used was a little too severe, so I used Alclad Dull Aluminium dusted over the Magnesium to get it to look more engine like. I've done some serious shading with heavily thinned Tamiya Black also. The engine bearers were a trial themselves with the supercharger protruding way too far for comfort. Has anyone here ever used the Aires engine set who could explain the engine mount o

I have an Iwata HP-C+ and don't know how similar it is but if it's anything like mine, then it will just the job you want. I have a standard 0.3mm nozzle and it's great for general coverage down to detail stuff. I also have some 0.2mm fittings for the same airbrush and that takes it to a whole new level. Wonderful airbrush, handles and cleans well and is capable of just about anything.

I used Radus Rivet-R pounce wheel tool from radubstore.com. First time I used that particular tool and it's worth every penny.

I reckon the rivets took 3 days to mark out and do. Not as much of a chore as I thought it might me.

LMAO!

I've done the majority of post shading now, and added a wash. Wash was done with Promodeller black wash instead of the oil I usually use. It seemed to do a good job but I had to add a touch of washing-up liquid to it to break it's surface tension as it was pooling on the model surface. I still need to do a little panel post shading yet and some staining, but so far so good. Panel line accents were touched up with Tamiya acrylic thinned 90%. I've now started on the cowl panels and engine components. The rudder and elevators, landing flaps etc are now painted and ready for installation.

Ok guys, Here is my first attempt at mottling and I did it straight on the model with no practise as I'm too impatient for that It's by no means perfect but this is the one bit of the model I'd been dreading since I bought this kit. I no longer 'feel the fear'! I'm always open to suggestions on how I could have bettered it. I know there are a few 'harder' blasts from the airbrush where I was perhaps a little too thin too start with. I have used the Galland Circus JV44 set of EagleCal decals for this and Mr Mark Setter to get them to seat. I had no use for the Mark Softer as the decals are

So as not to be a slacker :lol: Tamiya flat white has been sprayed on the underside to fade out the pre shading and a whole van load of Tamiya tape was used to mask off thewhite bars. Gunze RLM23 was then sprayed on in very thin coats so it self sealed the tape. Enough paint was sprayed to allow proper coverage, and what you can't see in these pictures is the proper colour of the paint, and also the pre-shading which still shows beautifully. I just seem to be harrassed with bright light and crap photos. Still, I'm pleased so far, and NO paint bleeding. Tomorrow I'll paint the fuselage sides

The tail was the next candidate for my hatchet and for this I removed ALL control surfaces so I could replace them with the Blackdog resin. I also wanted to remove the tail access door and detail the interior. The resin kit is superb but lacked that familiar dimpled plate at the rear, so this was made with thin plasticard, drilled and covered with a thin covering of tin metal foil, pushed into the drilled holes. I decided to add the small oxygen tanks to the tail extension section, so drilled out the access port and thinned the plastic at that point. I then got some beads of the correct dia

About time for an update perhaps? Sorry about the lack recently, so here we go. I've been doing a LOT of work mainly on the wing, which required so much thinning for the Aires parts to fit that I must have worn it to less than the thickness of a sheet of paper in places. I actually used a pernament marker to highlight the areas where I had gone dangerously thin and the ink bled right through the plastic to the face side! :lol: Not a problem though with a little Devcon epoxy All paint is either Gunze or Vallejo. ALL surfaces have also been riveted using Radu's Rivet-R tool and the Bentley d