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About Collin

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    Full Blown Model Geek

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  1. Man, couldn't wait for this kit to be done, and near the end took off the canopy masks and realized I had leakage and now a good portion of the clear parts look like there is condensation on the inside. After that, I just wanted to get the thing thrown together and off my bench. She's painted in in Korean War markings but not a specific aircraft. So here she is.
  2. https://www.airliners.net/photo/USA-Marines/McDonnell-Douglas-A-4M-Skyhawk-II/288330/L Awesome!! Cheers Collin
  3. CAPT Scott Speicher scheme. Looks like under the stb LEX there is a pic and narrative which I assume tells the story of CAPT Speicher and his MIA situation.
  4. Unload?? You can't unload an aircraft you don't have control over, which is the essence of "departed from control flight" IMO. Been a few years, but back in my T-2C jet trainer days it (adverse yaw departures) were a ton of fun (at altitude when you are expecting it). Neutralize controls, lock harness, SB in, trim 2-8 degrees nose up. If positive spin confirmed, confirm throttle idle/neutral stick, rudder full opposite turn needle. No indication passing 10K (I'll ask once if you got it)...eject (I used to jog down the beach repeating this in my head). T-2 would depart and tumble a lot if you kept pro-spin controls in...before developing into a full (normal) spin. Within a turn or two of the spin, with pro-recover inputs, she would always snap out of it and you would be headed nose down. Then (AoA under control and AS rising) you are leveling your wings and starting your pull to the horizon, watching your g/AS so you don't pull back into an accelerated stall. Good times. 1992: I was riding with a UK Phantom driver (in a CF-18B at the time) when he "unloaded" to get some energy back to kick the snot out of A-4 Super Fox that was giving him trouble. Everything hit the top of the canopy....including my head since my lap belts were a little loose at the start of the engagement. He then slapped on the G to make the turn and man I was caught off guard for both the negative and positive. Had a few red spots on my eyeballs when we landed as well. I "unloaded" once on a pilot when he got vertigo and was taking us into stall. Sick feeling floating in your ejection seat as your watch the AS needle still moving slower....but all I cared about was getting the AoA back under 18 units (or lower) to be safe. Flying a desk sucks. Cheers Collin
  5. I believe Steve is planning on a drop tank/ARS combo for the Shadow....and a ARS/Harpoon (with 82's in the BB) combo for his VS-29 S-3B, based on earlier discussions we had. He is aware that the Shadow isn't a weapon carrier....but could never shake away the buddy store 😮 It's funny to see the round holes in the rear of the pilot/COTAC panels where the thermos holders are. They were the perfect size for large water bottles....but the original thermos bottles that were supplied with the aircraft disappeared quicker than they came into service. Cheers Collin
  6. Forms a nice bearing line for the slot aircraft in that first picture seems to me. Trailing edge of wings lined up continuous with the yellow strip would tell me I’m on the correct bearing line and in position. Never saw this on a legacy bird, but ours were so dirty it could be easily missed. Cheers Collin
  7. Viking Love....awesome. Love these Lancer markings:
  8. What variant of AGM-65 Maverick are you doing for your build? The seeker cover on IR variants are a tan-ish/cream color, while the EO and LASER variants are clear. Collin
  9. First: let your gloss coat dry completely, a few days at a minimum. Second: test your decals using a bottom decal first, in case you screw up. Third: everyone’s particular product above works. Bottom line, use water or a setting solution (micro set/mr setting solution) to get the decals placed on the model, wick that away THEN use the stronger/hotter setting solution. Lightly brush on s thin coat. One not mentioned above is Tamiya X-22A, it’s a great setting solution. Forth: when using strong setting solutions DON’T let it pool on the decals (remember a light coat, don’t flood it on the decal). A pooled drop of strong solution will burn a soft spot and damage the decals. Put a light coat of strong solution on the decals (and if it wrinkles up don’t worry, that’s normal), look for any pooling solution and wick it away ( I use the corner of a paper towel). Critical you don’t forcibly touch or move the decal after the harsher setting solution has been put on (and your decals have wrinkled up a little). Most important step, walk away and let the solution do its work. This part sucks because your newly applied decals are on the kit and wrinkled, and you want to see a better result. Walk away and let the decal dry out on its own. It should flatten out, get sucked down firmly onto the model and the wrinkles disappear. I am doing decals currently on my 1/48 Invader and all the above is happening. I normally decal in the morning or late at night where I either go to work or sleep and that is my “walk away” time where I just let the chemicals do their thing. Cheers Collin
  10. I tried powders and failed. The grains were just to great in any solution attempted. The metallic particles in nail polish, and other metallic polishes/compounds I also tried just hang in any medium. Its a tough nut nut to crack. Collin
  11. Excellent results. Appreciate your paint call outs, will help with my future build of this kit. Nice to see a gear up version as well. Curious as to what nail polish brand/formula you used. I’ve been down that path with very little success. I didn’t see it mentioned in your above post. Cheers Collin
  12. A little bit of masking....a little bit of red paint. Cheers
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