ESzczesniak

Thank you! I don't think I have any GBU-24's. I'll have to look for aftermarket, or look for new load out pictures.

I'm getting close enough to painting my Kinetic 1/48 F-16I Sufa that I need to actually pick and commit to weapons. I want to keep the load out realistic, but "Israeli" and unique if I can. I know they can carry some of the later GPS weapons, but am looking at the Python missiles and SPICE bomb. My first questions, is this load out realistic? Wingtip: AIM-120, Outer wing: Python 4 (or AIM-9?), middle wing: SPICE, inner wing: 600 gallon tank, centerline: 300 gallon tank, and the double chin pods. This is I think what this photo is showing: Secondly, wha

I did try that. The filter settings don’t give a lot of good options. In particular, the “open orders” has potential, but filters out any shipped but not delivered orders. So of no use for tracking shipments. This is definitely a #FirstWorldProblem, but my Amazon order history has grown far more extensive in the pandemic trying to support our house with minimal human contact.

I know this is out there, but I can't seem to find an answer in my Googling and thought I'd give it a shot here. My Amazon "Your Orders" used to sort by the estimated arrival date, with delivered orders being move to the bottom and soonest to arrive being at the top. It is now (on web, iPhone, and iPad) showing the list sorted by order date. I can not find any way to change the list to my prior view through any option menus, sort, etc. There's a filter for "open orders", but this oddly cuts off some of my incoming orders. I'd love to revert to my old view. I find

They sure do! I built the Revell a while ago. It might be ok for an inflight model, but get's very wrong once you open up doors and bays. I'm nearing the end of building the AMP kit. It actually builds up in to a very nice kit, but is a lot of work for what it should be. By all measures, it's a short run kit. It has a fair bit of detail and appears to fairly accurate. But it builds like a Special Hobby short run kit.

This number is off by a factor of 10,000. The current US mortality rate is about 1.5%. Word wide 1-2% is commonly quoted. Up to to about 4% has been reported, although that was mostly earlier in the pandemic. So this number means for every 100 COVID cases, 1-2 people die.

I am looking for any information or insights on what a B-2 would most typically look like in a hangar. My primary question is that I have found an almost equal mix of pictures where all the doors have red RBF edge protectors on them and ones where they don't. I can't figure out any rhyme or reason myself. My best guess is that it's time period dependent, or they only have the door protectors on when actively loading the aircraft. Anyone have any better ideas? Also, it seems the navigation lights "retract" so they can sit flush when the aircraft is fully dark/stealth? It looks

If you have an interest in the vaccine and wanted to discuss medical facts/recommendations, PM me. I'm not an infectious disease/epidemiology specialist, but I'm a physician whose been working through this pandemic and have a wife with tree nut allergies. So I've gotten a bit in depth on guidelines, data, and the objective medical science regarding the mRNA vaccines and food allergies.

I should have planned ahead better. Over drilling the engine cowlings before adding the rear nacelle should have done the trick as well. Now that it's all glued together and painted, I'm a little cautious about doing so.

I just want to make sure I'm not crazy. It seems the stem that slides in to the nacelles didn't account the shrinking diameter past the aft fairing. So the nozzles only slide about half way in and then stop. Anyone else work with these and find anything different. It should overall be easy enough to cut a segment out and shorten them. It'll move the exhaust fan closer to the nozzle, so not quite perfect, but workable.

I also mix it up in batches. I'm using Mr. Surfacer 1200 instead of 1500, but mix up 40 mL at a time (large Tamiya jar) and have not had problems. I usually go through this in 6-8 weeks, so it doesn't sit horribly long. I also do this for the colors I use frequently such as white, black, a basic gray; but in smaller batches (10 mL jars). I have not had any problem with these. I have also been doing this with clear gloss (Tamiya X-22) and had one batch yellow badly in the jar. I had several prior batches that were just fine and my most recent batch seems fine. So this may have

Those are very nice, but I think for that much money, I'd have to just make myself build it myself. The big thing I feel like I'm missing is texturing the anti-skid coating well. It's easy enough to drill some tie downs and make the expansion gaps. I just haven't come across a good way of adding the anti-skid coating.

I think the confusion starts from the misconception that acrylic means water based. This is therefor construed as “safer”. As touched on somewhat already, paint has 3 primary components: Pigment: we tend not to talk much about these. They tend not to lead much to toxicity. So as long as the color is right and the particles aren’t too big, we move on. The one caution is that some pigments use heavy metals for their vibrance. Cadmium in whites is a good example. They have no real toxicity if used by brush, but can be harmful if sprayed. This is fairly uncommon though. Bind

I have a Cameo 4 that is new and I'm ready to put to work on it's first task...it's been sitting waiting for a while. I'm making a set of masks for a 1/144 B-2A. I have the graphics drawn and test passes in cardstock working well. My plan is to print this on sheets of Tamiya masking tape: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004WBC0AQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I know others have done this. Does anyone here care to share what blade settings they used? Thank you in advance!

I've seen/had that one in the past. I agree it's decent, but I'm looking for just a plain old section without elevators or catapults that I can use for arming/fueling setups. Or even just tied down and stowed. I've been hoping someone somewhere bought the Just Plane Stuff masters and would reissue this, but that doesn't seem to be the case.

A long time ago, something like a decade, I got a modern carrier deck section from Just Plane Stuff. It was made of resin and had to be painted. It has been the best modern carrier deck for dioramas I've seen. I'd love to have a couple more, but they are long gone. Does anyone know of any similar product? The prolific cardboard versions don't enough depth and texture for my liking. Zoukei-Mura have a couple pre-painted ones to go with their F-4J/S. They are the next best thing I've seen, but one is a catapult section, and one has a part of an elevator...neither are the best sections for

This doesn't directly answer your question, but for the legacy F/A-18C, Kinetic and Hobbyboss both make options as well. From reading, I'm unimpressed with the Hobbyboss kit, but the Kinetic is my preferred legacy Hornet. The build may be ever so slightly more complicated than Hasegawa, but it has loads more detail at baseline. If you're not picky about boxings, they're pretty easy to come by. Meng is just about to release a new F/A-18E, and the F is supposed to be coming relatively soon. By the previews, it looks on par with the Hasegawa, but gives more options for an up-to-

As always, it'll all depend on who you are and what you're looking for, but I think it's more than sufficient. I'm closing up the rear, so haven't paid as much attention back there. It seems pretty complete, but won't be visible at all without the ramp down. The seats are all folded, they don't seem to have an option for open seats. The cockpit and crew entry are both on par for 1/72. Instrument panels are decals. There are no seatbelts, etc. But there are all the appropriate bulkheads, etc. It looks good once closed up, and will look even better through the cockpit glass.

I am, but probably won’t be to decals and painting for a month or two. I’m a slow builder and my more active builds are a 1/144 B-1B and B-2A.

The attached photo is my one fairly clear reference. The upper split aileron could be faired and the inboard flaps slightly drooped, but it looked to me like the upper was up just a touch. Like you said, may not be worth it in 1/144 scale regardless.

Thank you! I really appreciate the help! I'll figure it all out eventually. I've got 4 birds either here or on the way...Fat Albert, USCG, AC-130H, KC-130T. I may either pick up a 5th for a USAF regular cargo bird or wait for the -J and build that one as a straight up USAF bird.

I'll walk away if I'm too much of a bother, but the intructions call for silver all the way down intake. This looks plausible in pictures, the silver appears to go at least a foot back or more. Is this correct or would it be the white I'm thinking it would be normally for an intake?

I think I'm going to make life hard on myself and try to model the parked position of the AMP 1/144 B-2 I'm working on. This seems to be pretty straightforward, but it seems there's often insight to be had from others on the boards, so I thought I'd check. I'm seeing: 1. Auxillary engine inlet doors closed 2. Outboard ailerons/flaps split with top half slight up, bottom half full down (about 70 degrees) 3. Beaver tail slightly drooped (it seems very slight, I might leg this one go) 4. IFR receptacle closed Any feedback on what I'm seeing? I appreciate

Thank you!

Yes, but Fat Albert hasn't done a JATO takeoff in years, there have been a few Fat Alberts, and the most recently retired had a major PDM. And I'm not C-130 expert. So 1) I'm not actually 100% sure these parts are the JATO brackets, and 2) I'm trying to be sure the Fat Albert in service until last year actually had the JATO brackets. I haven't been able to find any type of walkaround and the high gloss has made it hard for me to see these brackets. The picture below is the best I've found of this area and I think it shows the brackets... https://www.istockphoto.com/photo/fat