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About JeffreyK

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  1. JeffreyK

    KA Models aftermarket parts

    The detail looks superb, but as Kursad said, it's not a problem at all to create it in resin, and repeatable (although you have to replace moulds at regular intervals if you don't want to compromise on detail fidelity). The geometry however is impossible to re-create in resin as the cast detail needs some sort path to be removed from the mould. It doesn't have to be a strictly vertical path (like in injection moulding and steel moulds), you can have sometimes severe undercuts etc, but somehow the path needs to be there. Here though, with all the actuators in place and daylight between them, that's incredibly hard, if not impossible to achieve. The reason why most companies prefer resin cast copies rather than selling the 3D printed (master) parts directly are: - the surface fidelity of 3D printed parts is often below what's acceptable in the scale model world and needs to be hand-finished to bring it up to standard. This is in direct relation to the type of printer used and its print process, the print material and the geometry and orientation of the part to be printed. You have to do a lot of testing to find what's working on which part. It's NOT a case of just using the most expensive machine. KA seem to have found a very convincing solution. - the cost of printing. My guess is that KA own their machines as hired printing time would be very expensive. Cheers, J (p.s.: I'm just puzzled why they made the AB cans as separate halves. I don't think printing them as one piece would have been any different? The support structure could have been on the outsides of the tube instead... Perhaps they think modellers would prefer to paint them in separate halves?)
  2. JeffreyK

    1/32 & 1/48 F-15E Stencils

    My decal sheet is in stock at The48ers.com .
  3. JeffreyK

    Minicraft 1/144 KC-135 series

  4. JeffreyK

    What's needed to build a 48th Scale EKA-3B

    Sorry about the confusion, I can't confirm the exact measurement at the moment as the project is packed up and still on the boat to Japan. I had closed up the bay doors and marked out the new position. Somehow the figure of 9mm was in my head, but if I said 4-5mm in that post (hard to believe it's already 4 years old!), then that might be it. It will all be resolved eventually. J
  5. JeffreyK

    What's needed to build a 48th Scale EKA-3B

    ...eventually I will get to doing the wheel well correction set. Had started it twice, but shelved it as more issues came to light. It will include new side sections of fuselage to re-position the wheel well about 9mm (I think that's what it was) forward and provide a whole now interior and gear suspension linkage (the angles are wrong...). Jeffrey
  6. JeffreyK

    1/48 Tamiya F-14D

    For me there's only room for one F-14 in the stash and this will be the AMK kit IF there are no shape or scale issues with it (not really expecting there will be any).
  7. JeffreyK

    Anyone use the Hypersonic resin A-3 canopy?

    Well, thanks. A bit late to the party, just to confirm that clear resin is a bit different from clear kit plastic and other resin. It's not quite as thin as modern day injection moulded canopy parts and can be a little brittle sometimes. (Depends on small temperature variations in the curing process which are hard to control). Clear resin is generally harder than regular resin. It's advisable to make the big cuts with a razor saw first and then do the smaller flash cuts with a sharp knife. But if you pay attention and work carefully, it's not a big deal at all. I'm still determined to do the A-3 wheel wells, but it's a bit like the proverbial greased piglet - every time I try to get to doing them something comes up and the project slips again... J
  8. JeffreyK

    the48ers.48 a new modelling project

    Congratulations Ilias! To a great future and our continuing cooperation. Cheers Jeffrey
  9. JeffreyK

    1/48 F-4 Phantom best kits

    Looking just at those photos, I currently fail to see where the difference would be...? The Duxford F-4J has the anti-glare painted right on top of the clear quarter panel, so that is perhaps misleading? Also, the photos are shot at very different angles so the curvature of the fuselage opening where the clear part "sinks" into the fuselage looks very different, but might actually be the same. A little bit more evidence is needed here I think. J
  10. JeffreyK

    1/48 F-4 Phantom best kits

    Agreed, a bit puzzled by that myself!
  11. JeffreyK

    1/48 F-4 Phantom best kits

    Ah, gotcha, now I know what you mean. I've used the "Thomas" drawings mainly, but also another McD drawing sheet, but can't identify any name on it. ZM did produce a 3D print of the model before the tooling was cut, I've seen it in Telford 3 years ago. With limited time, I only focused on the issues known from the Academy kit (tail section, stabs, intakes, canopy...), but someone really should have picked up the problem at that stage.... J
  12. JeffreyK

    1/48 F-4 Phantom best kits

    Hi Richard, no I didn't use "Morris" drawings, in fact I don't even know them... I used McDonnell loft lines as the basis for my cross sections, accurately scaled to 1:48 in my CAD program, based on the various fuselage station markers and then traced and printed true to size. I re-shaped the fuselage from cross sections FS 414 and FS 453.30 and the result was very much as you demonstrated, a much straighter sloping line rather than a continuous curve. Straighter than Hasegawa, I agree, but also straighter than the Academy kit, but as I said before, Academy has the shoulders dropping away too much resulting in a bit of a "petite" look, lacking some muscle. Given that there is now a lot of very detailed F-4 shape information out there, to be obtained with very little effort, it is indeed a surprise that big shape issues still happen with even the latest kits. On the other hand, I know from my own experience that forcing a CAD program to produce complex curved surfaces that accurately reproduce shapes that were slide-rule designed and hand-built, is often a difficult and frustrating task. What the computer wants to generate from the input available and what the (model) designer is trying to create is often quite apart from each other and there might be instances where either the design team themselves or the head honcho intervenes and says "this has to be good enough now, you need to move on". J
  13. JeffreyK

    1/48 F-4 Phantom best kits

    Sorry, but I totally disagree. Shape wise, the Academy kit is to me the worst of all the offerings (I actually tend to agree that the Monogram kit is the best in that department, followed by Hasegawa. ZM could be top if it wasn't for that fuselage error). Apart from the issues you listed, the aft fuselage from about half way down to the aft end is bodged. The engine shoulders/bulges always looked a bit too shallow and "soft" to me, but I didn't have any proof. My cross section templates have now confirmed this. Where the ZM kit has too much "meat", the Academy has too little. But worse still, the whole tail end is quite dodgy shape wise. The vertical sides between the stabs should be just that, vertical, narrowing down with a smooth, continuous, gentle curve. Academy's tail is a weirdly shaped diamond, both in cross section and plan view. And no, I've not come up with this yesterday, I've been saying this for a few years...and the reason why, despite my own upgrade/correction parts, I still haven't build up the full kit. I have adapted a Hasegawa tail end to fit onto the Academy fuselage (hence the cut-off tails in my pictures above), but still haven't gotten 'round to adding the surface detail. I do acknowledge though that everybody's priorities are different. J
  14. JeffreyK

    1/48 F-4 Phantom best kits

    Hi Gene, once ready, I'm going to cut out the reshaped fuselage sides, add mounting lips/tabs and attach a casting block. The replacement parts will be large, but hopefully casting be relatively simple. The set will require cuts through the entire fuselage, but they will be straight and simple, fool-proof cuts, and away from most panel lines. Let's see how this will go... J
  15. JeffreyK

    1/48 F-4 Phantom best kits

    ...no, I can't take pictures of the "before" state - I only have that one kit here in the UK. I do own another one (the S), but didn't bring it with me from Japan last time. Perhaps I should have... J