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JeffreyK

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About JeffreyK

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    http://www.hypersonicmodels.co.uk

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  1. JeffreyK

    AMK 1/48 F-14!!!

    👍👍👍
  2. JeffreyK

    second intruder/crusader type pilot by Reedoak

    They do look superb - may have to fork out on a large(ish) order. J
  3. JeffreyK

    Modelcollect B-52H

    Well, it has to be this then: http://www.hphmodels.cz/hph/b-52-stratofortress/?lang=en Jeffrey
  4. JeffreyK

    Tornado control stick 1:1

    Years ago there was this F-104 grip : http://www.hyperscale.com/2010/reviews/kits/f104stickreviewme_1.htm Now I regret that I didn't buy it back then... J
  5. JeffreyK

    KA Models aftermarket parts

    The detail looks superb, but as Kursad said, it's not a problem at all to create it in resin, and repeatable (although you have to replace moulds at regular intervals if you don't want to compromise on detail fidelity). The geometry however is impossible to re-create in resin as the cast detail needs some sort path to be removed from the mould. It doesn't have to be a strictly vertical path (like in injection moulding and steel moulds), you can have sometimes severe undercuts etc, but somehow the path needs to be there. Here though, with all the actuators in place and daylight between them, that's incredibly hard, if not impossible to achieve. The reason why most companies prefer resin cast copies rather than selling the 3D printed (master) parts directly are: - the surface fidelity of 3D printed parts is often below what's acceptable in the scale model world and needs to be hand-finished to bring it up to standard. This is in direct relation to the type of printer used and its print process, the print material and the geometry and orientation of the part to be printed. You have to do a lot of testing to find what's working on which part. It's NOT a case of just using the most expensive machine. KA seem to have found a very convincing solution. - the cost of printing. My guess is that KA own their machines as hired printing time would be very expensive. Cheers, J (p.s.: I'm just puzzled why they made the AB cans as separate halves. I don't think printing them as one piece would have been any different? The support structure could have been on the outsides of the tube instead... Perhaps they think modellers would prefer to paint them in separate halves?)
  6. JeffreyK

    1/32 & 1/48 F-15E Stencils

    My decal sheet is in stock at The48ers.com .
  7. JeffreyK

    Minicraft 1/144 KC-135 series

    http://fishermodels.indiemade.com/product/kc-135-nose-correction-minicraft-1144?tid=3
  8. JeffreyK

    What's needed to build a 48th Scale EKA-3B

    Sorry about the confusion, I can't confirm the exact measurement at the moment as the project is packed up and still on the boat to Japan. I had closed up the bay doors and marked out the new position. Somehow the figure of 9mm was in my head, but if I said 4-5mm in that post (hard to believe it's already 4 years old!), then that might be it. It will all be resolved eventually. J
  9. JeffreyK

    What's needed to build a 48th Scale EKA-3B

    ...eventually I will get to doing the wheel well correction set. Had started it twice, but shelved it as more issues came to light. It will include new side sections of fuselage to re-position the wheel well about 9mm (I think that's what it was) forward and provide a whole now interior and gear suspension linkage (the angles are wrong...). Jeffrey
  10. JeffreyK

    1/48 Tamiya F-14D

    For me there's only room for one F-14 in the stash and this will be the AMK kit IF there are no shape or scale issues with it (not really expecting there will be any).
  11. JeffreyK

    Anyone use the Hypersonic resin A-3 canopy?

    Well, thanks. A bit late to the party, just to confirm that clear resin is a bit different from clear kit plastic and other resin. It's not quite as thin as modern day injection moulded canopy parts and can be a little brittle sometimes. (Depends on small temperature variations in the curing process which are hard to control). Clear resin is generally harder than regular resin. It's advisable to make the big cuts with a razor saw first and then do the smaller flash cuts with a sharp knife. But if you pay attention and work carefully, it's not a big deal at all. I'm still determined to do the A-3 wheel wells, but it's a bit like the proverbial greased piglet - every time I try to get to doing them something comes up and the project slips again... J
  12. JeffreyK

    the48ers.48 a new modelling project

    Congratulations Ilias! To a great future and our continuing cooperation. Cheers Jeffrey
  13. JeffreyK

    1/48 F-4 Phantom best kits

    Looking just at those photos, I currently fail to see where the difference would be...? The Duxford F-4J has the anti-glare painted right on top of the clear quarter panel, so that is perhaps misleading? Also, the photos are shot at very different angles so the curvature of the fuselage opening where the clear part "sinks" into the fuselage looks very different, but might actually be the same. A little bit more evidence is needed here I think. J
  14. JeffreyK

    1/48 F-4 Phantom best kits

    Agreed, a bit puzzled by that myself!
  15. JeffreyK

    1/48 F-4 Phantom best kits

    Ah, gotcha, now I know what you mean. I've used the "Thomas" drawings mainly, but also another McD drawing sheet, but can't identify any name on it. ZM did produce a 3D print of the model before the tooling was cut, I've seen it in Telford 3 years ago. With limited time, I only focused on the issues known from the Academy kit (tail section, stabs, intakes, canopy...), but someone really should have picked up the problem at that stage.... J
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