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Lucio Martino

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About Lucio Martino

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    Canopy Polisher
  • Birthday 05/24/1961

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    Roma, Italy / Columbia, South Carolina

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  1. Well, Where 90% rubbing alcohol and lacquer thinner failed, toothpaste succeed ! Now, I am pretty worried by what I get on my teeth several time a day...
  2. Hi, Time is coming to think about seats: - The two seats on the left are the ones included into the Aires cockpit set. They are missing of the photoetched belts. - The one in the middle is the original Hasegawa one. - The two seats on the rigth are Verlinden. Which one you like the best? I don't have any Quickboost F-14 seats. Should I get a couple of Quickboost seats instead ? Lucio
  3. I do agree about moulding loosing sharpness, but with the passing of time, styrene doesn't get worst, doesn't become brittle and weak ?
  4. Hi, How would you clean this needle? I used rubbing alcohol and then lacquer thinner. It belongs to an used Badger 200 airbrush (medium) I bought days ago on eBay. Lucio
  5. Improving Hasegawa 1:48 tomcat - 18 Tails, Stabilizers, and Strakes (IV) And then comes step 20 according to which the parts D14 and D30 are glued together, using part A13 as a spacer (pic 219). In step 21, this his sub-assembly should be glued to the upper and lower half-fuselage (pic 220). Honestly, that doesn't seem like a good idea to me, especially after taking a close look at all three of these parts (pic 221). I really don't think that part A13 can ensure a good alignment of this sub-assembly to the fuselage. In addition, this is a quite visible area, especially the upper half-fuselage. This idea of mine was confirmed by several other threads dedicated to this kit. So, I left aside part A13 and removed any related small bits of plastic (pic 222). My choice was to glue part D14 directly to the upper half-fuselage and part D30 to the lower half-fuselage, as you can see in pics 223-228. I have to acknowledge that it was more difficult than expected, so much so as to require a lot of care, superglue as a filler, and a very gentle sanding work. Actually, part D30 fits to the lower fuselage better than part D14 to the lower fuselage. In the next pic (229) a dry fit of the rear ends of the parts D14 and D30, now glued to the semi-fuselages. In the last (230), the Evergreen stripes that, at the end, I used to ensure greater solidity to these joints. Once again, any feedback is welcome.
  6. First of all, I need to thank Toki71 for his very appreciated help _____________________________________________________________ Improving Hasegawa 1:48 tomcat - 17 Tails, Stabilizers, and Strakes (III) When I thought that - finally - there was nothing else to improve in the fuselage, my Tomcat Hasegawa gave me another surprise. The speed brake compartment is not acceptable as it is out of the box. The temptation to close everything was strong, also because the fit of the E14, E26 and E27 doors is particularly good. In the end, I decided to leave everything open and improve the aspect of this area, but not much, just a bit. In addition, given that I am planning to build this kit as an early F-14A (no TCS, no ECM bulges), but at my disposal, I have only parts D15 and D30, that is to say those with the prominent tail bulge (instead of the required parts D13 and D25) I strengthened from the inside part D30 with some Milliput and then I filed away the bulge. Immediately afterwards, I realized that the lower compartments of the speed brake and its doors are about three millimeters too long. Reducing the length of parts E26 and E27, and gluing the bits thus obtained to part D30, was not really difficult (see pics 206, 207, 208, and 209). At this point, it became necessary to dress up the door compartments. Evergreen came handy, again, as you can see in pics 210 and 211. Rivets were simulated using a ruler and a needle into a in wise. After checking the great DACO book dedicated to this aircraft, I sanded down to a more proper scale appearance the “bars” of part D15 (pic 212), removed one of these “bars” (pic 213 and 214), and then glued a couple of short Evergreen stripes as shown in pic 215. Next pic, 216, shows the inside of modified parts D15 and D30, while pic 217 shows modified parts D15 and D30 momentarily assembled. As usual, any feedback is welcome.
  7. First of all, My special thanks to Toki71 for his help. Dear Brett M, Very useful comment. thank you.
  8. Right now I don't have much documentation with me (I left on the other side of the ocean my Daco Book) and browsing the Web I did not find pictures good enough: 1) To asses if the Hasegawa step/door compartment is deep enough: 2) To detail the Hasegawa airbrake upper and lower compartments: Any help is very welcome
  9. I just want to thank you for your very welcome message. I am doing my best, but the true is that I do not have the stamina and the skills of some the excellent modelers crowding this forum (like Wardog, just to give an example), to cut these vents off and to scratch building some new. In this, like in any other build, I need to stop somewhere, I need to say to myself "good enough". When it comes to this kit gun vents this is one of these cases. On the other hand, especially after checking the pics, I saw few other small flaws in this area that I am planning to address, but first I want to deal with "another" critical area of this kit, the joint between the upper and lower fuselage and the upper and lower component of the beaver tail. And then I want to spend some time on the other projects now on my workbench (Trumpeter 1:48 SM79 and 1:35 T-80; Academy 1:72 Tempest; Hasegawa 1:72 F-15) because I enjoy jumping from a project to another...
  10. Thank you! I need to do some minor filling and sanding in this area before dealing with the vents. However, I won't do much more than cleaning them from the sanding dust because these vents are very, but very, fragile and I feel that a dark wash will be enough to bring them to life.
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