Bozothenutter

Middle ground would be using masks, but raised off the surface a bit.

"Trying to accomplish" how terribly rude! You're assuming I knew this then? Might need to tune up your attitude a little, it's sagging.

Pretty please?

Kelik should be right up your street. Their product photography doesn't make the product look good though...

Quinta has the best detail, Kelik maybe a close second. The newer Yahu stuff seems to have even better print resolution than Quinta, but I haven't seen a lot of them yet. The kitsworld stuff is plain horrible, avoid like the plague! Quinta have recently released individual dials with bezels, very useful for aircraft with slight variations.

The new D15/16 might be closer......😈 It wouldn't surprise me is Miniart actually does the -23, they do a LOT of variations of their armour kits.

No longer fully 3D printed, but 'hybrid', like the new Eduard S-199. Basically the main parts will be injection moulded, everything else will be 3D printed.

Didn't Kinetic once say they weren't going to do a Sufa?

where? the OP pic has just the rails

Ah, but I'm not......

The Meng 48th kit could use some of your tail lovin' too! 🙏🏾

here it comes.......it depends! For me it mostly has to do with heat soak, for the solder to flow properly the part has to be heated as well. With an iron it might take a while. (and risk already soldered parts loosening/shifting) Danger of resistance soldering is well, you can easily burn through a part if current is too high, or the pedal is pressed too long. example of DIY setups http://www.n1gy.com/a-diy-resistance-soldering-rig.html https://pnr.nmra.org/1div/clinics/LowcostResistanceSolderer.pdf https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/building-a-resistanc

Think spotwelder, but with less amps A PSU, a footpedal, and a pencil lead holder. The PSU should be capable of at least 10A, and have multiple output voltages. Low voltage for thin stock, high voltage....well you get it. I use a steel plate as a ground surface, and some magnets to help hold parts.

I switched to soldering PE wherever possible. I use a conventional Weller for small pieces, and a home made resistance soldering unit for larger ones (fast local heat) For solder I've been using Chipquick soldering paste.

I have been trying to draw up the nacelles in Fusion. The Convair station diagrams from the manual are wrong ( only illustrative), (the spikes should have been a hint) I used a russian drawing I found online, as it has section drawings, that gives a better shape in profile, but makes the sides bulge outwards. What are the best drawings of the B-58?