chek

Members
  • Content count

    337
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About chek

  • Rank
    Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!)
  • Birthday 02/27/1952

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0
  1. As there are what appears to be a moveable door just inside the main intake (for boundary layer control?) I'd deduce the ducts under the rear canopy skirt are their outlet ducts.
  2. Those wing tip detail enhancements make all the difference, John. One small tip that may help others wondering about sanding lights to a nice curve, is to gradually bring the squared off end of the clear sprue/rod of adequate diameter close to the base of a lighted candle flame. At the right point (found by trial and error, depending on sprue/rod thickness) the end of the rod will melt into a dome. It forms a mushroom rivet-like head, which can grow fairly large as it melts back as it's brought closer towards the heat. If care is not taken, it can also burst into a (tiny) flaming fireball. For this model, the flange so formed at the cooled end of the rod would be sanded away leaving a perfectly clear and curved end. You can also paint the curved area silver, then when dry, glue it into a landing light body or whatever. When firmly fixed, the cut end can be more easily sanded to the flatter curve of a lamp's lens and polished back to clarity. And you get the same internal inverted reflection that make MV lenses and similar look so good.
  3. Oh c'mon F, those Vulcan barrels don't even rotate. It's like you're not trying any more. But to be serious, it's coming along very well. Interested to see how the skin texture looks with a matt coat of camouflage on it.
  4. There are 12 openings, with the 12th slat hiding below the forward edge of the area. Pity it's correct really, because 'these go up to 11' could've been a memorable meme.
  5. I likely depends on where in the world you are, but in Europe, ordering direct from SH's website is generally the cheapest option. Unless someone on eBay is offloading one.
  6. Hey John, wonderful to see you back in action and applying your eye and creativity to model aircraft again. I haven't actually begun my journey in miniature from P1127 to .... I suppose AV-8B+ being the arguable end-point? - in my fairly recently adopted 1/32 scale, but certainly will be storing your Gen II Harrier improvements for when I get to them. I still can't believe we in the UK retired one of the surviving pinnacles of Brit excellence and world-beating ingenuity over 4 years ago. And did I say great to see you back?
  7. Looking very good F. Your stressed skin effect looks great. Gary's parts also make a big difference which is good to see. I bought them too, but am currently too involved in other projects (F-14/Hurricane/Tempest) to get on with actually using them. Great to see your progress, and for future projects, remember! Ejection seats should always be clean and fresh looking! Nobody would trust them looking any other way.
  8. Hi Don, can't believe nobody has answered you yet. The Martin-Baker Type 9 seat fitted in RAF GR1s has a semi-gloss black seat frame, with bright aluminium rivet detail. The seat's back cushions are an olive drab shade, being a slightly greyer shade on the actual seat pack the pilot sits on. Straps are light tan for the main harness, with light greyish-blue leg restraints. Check when searching for images that you're looking at a Harrier seat, and not a Jaguar one as both used the Type 9. The cockpit walls should all be Dark Admiralty Grey (very similar to Dark Sea Grey but maybe just a touch lighter). Airfix may mean that the part of the bulkhead forming the nose gear wheel well interior should be light aircraft grey, but that's not correct. The gear leg and wheel hub certainly are LAG, but the bay walls themselves should be white - although it gets very dirty and grimy. My supposition is that first generation Harriers were all manufactured in the UK, and will be the same basic schemes whether US, UK, Thai or Spanish. What happened after delivery and when is something you'll need to consult photos on to be sure. For model purposes the IPMS's Harrier SIG is a great resource.
  9. Thanks for posting, it's good to see some old school Phantoms and Tomcats still flying. It's also reassuring that even in the Islamic Republic, photo hosting sites time out just like those in the West (if you've checked back to the earlier pages. Business is business no matter where in the world you are.
  10. Hi John, I'm very sorry to hear about your circumstances but glad to hear you yourself are OK, or as well as you can be with the grief and stress of events. The only consolation I can offer is that time is a great healer. It may sound glib, but I know from experience it's true. best wishes, Charles
  11. The Fujimi F-4E is not a great Phantom model. The proportions are out, and the bulged wing for the larger main gear are simply two 'U' shaped lumps sticking out at right angles to the centreline. They're crisply moulded and when they came out I bought four with a view to converting two or three using the Entex kit. But the more I researched Phantoms, the more un-Phantomlike the Fujimi became. I finished one, but then rumours of a new Phantom coming from Monogram and then a family from Hasegawa killed any further interest. I kept a set of wings with a view to sanding off the bulges for an F-4B combination with the Monogram F-4C, but they were too small and the outlines woeful.
  12. Thanks for the info guys. I agree that the '89- mid 90s is the most likely timeframe for what I'm looking for. The problem is finding pictures from that period, just before the internet and digital photography took off. While there are lots of photos from the era on Airliners and Jetphotos etc., most have been taken at airshows open to civilians, and full combat loads at such events are very rare.
  13. There are a couple of walkarounds on Prime Portal that may answer some of your questions: http://www.primeportal.net/hangar/carl_dennis/f-15i/ and http://www.primeportal.net/hangar/isaac_gershman/f-15i/ Some of my searches for IDFAF Phantoms have also turned up Israeli sites, which are usually in Hebrew. Google translate in the Chrome browser is a big help there, and allows you to google things in Hebrew, which don't show up in English language searches. You'll get the hang of the Hebrew terms you need quick enough. It's the same with Russian aircraft - more shows up in the native language than in English. And I dare say if you post a topic specifically on the F-15I iaf-man will show up sooner or later. Isaac also posted one of those PP WAs and has contributed many terrific photos and his extensive local knowledge to here and many other sites over the years.
  14. Thanks OCD - I can see now I misread the post to mean front gear door instead of front maingear doors. Bushande, a photo and a couple of links to more of the same series. And as said before, the relevant Tamiya sprues can often be bought on eBay for between $15 to $20 depending on parts tree size. They aren't always available at all times, but I got my F-15C nose parts within about four weeks from deciding to try it to ordering them. and and
  15. "Each (F-15E) CFT is fitted with 2x3 weapon racks (note that all current F-15E CFT's are of type IV, earlier type CFT's are without weapon racks). The lower three pylons were moulded into a single, straight runner which contains 3 BRU-47/A racks. The upper three pylons feature BRU-46/A racks. The maximum payload for the upper pylons is 1100 pounds, the forward and aft lower pylons have a combined maximum load of 2200 pounds, while the middle lower pylon can hold up to 3300 pounds of weapon load". http://www.f-15e.info/joomla/technology/fuel-system/91-conformal-fuel-tanks I'm not sure of the nosewheel door question - though there are a few walkarounds available that should show them clearly enough. But certainly the nose wheel leg itself is strengthened, with a flanged square section half-fork mounting the nosewheel. There is also a unique shimmy damper mounted on it which protrudes forward. The Tamiya F-15E metal leg is not a good representation at all, which is why the anticipated GT Resin correctly sized resin wheels with metal legs gear set looks like the best (soon) available solution.