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chek

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  • Birthday 02/27/1952

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  1. F-15E, 1/32, Tamiya

    Looks brilliant Fs! So much so, if it were mine I'd forget about keeping those bay doors movable and just flip up those door latches. Let the viewer feast their eyes on that detail within.
  2. 1:32 Trumpeter Harrier GR.7

    I'm not sure if it still holds true, but when I built my last 1/48th Harrier GR3, my research told me the MLG doors could be manually released by the ground crew. (And I always think discontinuities in outline and added detail trumps 'usual' if viable and possible. Rather like Spitfire flaps). I've not yet read or seen anything to have me believe the Gen 2 Harriers were any different.
  3. 1:32 Trumpeter Harrier GR.7

    You certainly improved the look of that instrument panel from the raw material John. That canopy bow frame doesn't look too shabby either. Can't help with the polish either. I got a shallow tub of polishing paste from a perspex sign shop almost twenty years ago. So long ago in fact, the paint along with its ID has peeled off the lid. And it looks to have a couple more centuries use left in it. Still works well for buffing clear and regular plastic to a high shine though. Edit to add: One further thing I'd consider is, if the windscreen is under continuous stress after bonding to the fuselage, to cover it with a cloth wrung out with hot water for a minute or two. It may help 'relax' the plastic into its adopted shape and prevent stress cracks appearing at some point.
  4. F-15E, 1/32, Tamiya

    Very convincing looking E-bays Fs! It'll look great when the outside paint goes on.
  5. 1:32 Trumpeter Harrier GR.7

    Definitely "UGH!", but not insurmountable. And definitely unnecessary for that kit. But is the kit canopy length correct? I often wish aftermarket went with 'true' measurements rather than the kit's interpretation. Often they err on assisting the builder rather than sticking to the correct values. Which is mostly best for some, but not all.
  6. 1:32 Trumpeter Harrier GR.7

    Very neat riveting lines John, and right about where to draw the line, at least in 32 scale. It's surprisingly hard to find a clear enough wing underside photo - even for the pylon attachments points when unloaded. But the white undersides of the linked YAV-8B 158394 photo bear out the lack of access panels. I strongly doubt there was any revision to the composite wing once the wing design was finalised and the mould/autoclave built.
  7. 1:32 Trumpeter Harrier GR.7

    Very convincing nose sensor and associated paraphernalia behind that outer lens.
  8. 1:32 Trumpeter Harrier GR.7

    It's looking very good so far, John. To digress very slightly, it occurred to me that ye olde ADEN cannon pods were rarely (but not never) seen in the last few years of the Harrier's RAF career. In contrast, an LRMTS GR3 would look naked without them, but later on the weapon stations were more often seen with nav. and targeting pods fitted for the 21st century version of precision strike. Bur the ADENs might be more congruent with the darkgreen/lichen green era, should you decide a grey scheme is too humdrum. Though grey schemes (there was also the early light grey undersides with the hard demarcation) are certainly a common and suitable option.
  9. 1:32 Trumpeter Harrier GR.7

    As there are what appears to be a moveable door just inside the main intake (for boundary layer control?) I'd deduce the ducts under the rear canopy skirt are their outlet ducts.
  10. 1:32 Trumpeter Harrier GR.7

    Those wing tip detail enhancements make all the difference, John. One small tip that may help others wondering about sanding lights to a nice curve, is to gradually bring the squared off end of the clear sprue/rod of adequate diameter close to the base of a lighted candle flame. At the right point (found by trial and error, depending on sprue/rod thickness) the end of the rod will melt into a dome. It forms a mushroom rivet-like head, which can grow fairly large as it melts back as it's brought closer towards the heat. If care is not taken, it can also burst into a (tiny) flaming fireball. For this model, the flange so formed at the cooled end of the rod would be sanded away leaving a perfectly clear and curved end. You can also paint the curved area silver, then when dry, glue it into a landing light body or whatever. When firmly fixed, the cut end can be more easily sanded to the flatter curve of a lamp's lens and polished back to clarity. And you get the same internal inverted reflection that make MV lenses and similar look so good.
  11. F-15E, 1/32, Tamiya

    Oh c'mon F, those Vulcan barrels don't even rotate. It's like you're not trying any more. But to be serious, it's coming along very well. Interested to see how the skin texture looks with a matt coat of camouflage on it.
  12. There are 12 openings, with the 12th slat hiding below the forward edge of the area. Pity it's correct really, because 'these go up to 11' could've been a memorable meme.
  13. 1/32 SH Tempest Mk II

    I likely depends on where in the world you are, but in Europe, ordering direct from SH's website is generally the cheapest option. Unless someone on eBay is offloading one.
  14. 1:32 Trumpeter Harrier GR.7

    Hey John, wonderful to see you back in action and applying your eye and creativity to model aircraft again. I haven't actually begun my journey in miniature from P1127 to .... I suppose AV-8B+ being the arguable end-point? - in my fairly recently adopted 1/32 scale, but certainly will be storing your Gen II Harrier improvements for when I get to them. I still can't believe we in the UK retired one of the surviving pinnacles of Brit excellence and world-beating ingenuity over 4 years ago. And did I say great to see you back?
  15. F-15E, 1/32, Tamiya

    Looking very good F. Your stressed skin effect looks great. Gary's parts also make a big difference which is good to see. I bought them too, but am currently too involved in other projects (F-14/Hurricane/Tempest) to get on with actually using them. Great to see your progress, and for future projects, remember! Ejection seats should always be clean and fresh looking! Nobody would trust them looking any other way.
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