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chek

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About chek

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    Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!)
  • Birthday 02/27/1952

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  1. OK stand down, persons. I was kindly directed to the article where Mr. Vark answers all my questions
  2. Having arrived late to this party , thanks Jim. That's exactly the information I was looking for.
  3. Hi community! I'm wondering if anybody has got close enough to an Aardvark with TP2 intakes (Triple Plow 2 for those unfamiliar) to measure the gap between the inner intake lip/or cone and the fuselage? I have the DMold intakes (one of which is passable, the other one with bubble blobs where the bleed holes should be. Never mind, a bit of needlework required) But some photos of the area I have, whether due to the camera lens or whatever,indicate that the gap between the shock cone and the fuselage is wider - much wider - than an unmodified install will produce
  4. The Thud is a bit of an under-appreciated aviation marvel, which hasn't received the same dues as some of its contemporaries.
  5. Thanks Bill. It might seem a bit weird, but I like a model that helps to understand how things work. Btw the two pdf links aren't working.
  6. Thanks Bill, those photos are a great help. I'll have to build a rig to figure how the flaps actually move, with the hinges pointing inboard but the flaps apparently moving rearwards.
  7. Thanks for the reminder Bill. I've saved many of your WAs over the years. While I had the '385 WA already, I'd forgotten about the detached flap which is very helpful
  8. I've been off models for a while, but recently got a Yahu F-105 instrument panel and want to give it a try again. I've a half dozen Revell/Monogram 1/48 kits that I want to show with the variety of spines and extensions, but I also want to build one with the wing flaps deployed. It's very uncommon as a hunt through my five paper books and 2700 images and several online walkarounds just goes to prove, as apart from landing or take off rolls, I've come up with zero. I think the leading edge flaps are on a simple hinge, but I think the T/E flaps are the Fowler type t
  9. Terrific result John. Making the black of a Black Jet look interesting is no easy task. I hope you'll treat us to a full photo walkaround so we can all appreciate the work you've put into your model.
  10. Well, it just goes to show there's always something new to learn about Phantoms! The dead blog post link can be found here with further info and photos. Although I am a little surprised that McDonnell engineers went all the way to the Middle East when they had the full might of the St.Louis factory's production, test facilities and research personnel to hand back home.
  11. Slats on US Navy F-4Ss were different to the type used on land based Phantoms (E/F/G models), having a blunt lip that overhung the leading edge. Despite having over 30 photos of 153088, the dark blue paint scheme makes it difficult to tell when or even if the slat shape evolved into the F-4S type shown above over the test period. All F-4E Phantoms delivered to Israel were standard production types, the earlier ones having the original 'hard' wing with leading edge flaps, and the later ones (from Block 48 71-0237) were manufactured with the slatted wing. A 1973
  12. F-4J 153088 was originally a Block 27 flight test airframe at NATC with a long nose boom. As part of the research into wing slats for the Navy, it was fitted with fixed slats (no underwing actuator fairings fitted) which were retained long after its Bicentennial scheme reverted to a regular NATC orange fin and outer wing panels, with a regular F-4J nose cone without the F-4B undernose fairing. Interestingly, when it was retired to gate guard status at Baton Rouge, it was repainted in a Marine F-4B scheme but retained an F-4J nose cone. The wing slats and their mounting
  13. The last time I did one in that scale was when making Arnie's AV-8B from the True Lies movie, which indicates how long ago it was. What I did was to as accurately as possible size and draw the pattern - or half the pattern, then fold and trace its mirror image - onto ordinary paper. Tape the paper to the outside of the canopy, then using a fine nibbed mapping pen with white ink, follow the pattern to draw on the inside of the canopy. The ink was acrylic, so could be wiped off if errors were made, but luckily none were. It' works well for 1/72 scale, but you'd really
  14. Very nice and often overlooked attention to detail John. I saw an absolutely beautiful Century-series fighter model recently which looked absolutely exquisite. Until a rear view showed the beautifully detailed jet nozzle set into what looked like something with the barrel thickness of a 20 inch howitzer, when it would have looked so much better with a sheet-metal thickness outer shroud.
  15. If it was a caption competition, the guy in the intake could be saying: "If you weren't planning to hit the start button, how come you've got your ear defenders on?"
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