chek

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About chek

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    Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!)
  • Birthday 02/27/1952

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  1. Definitely "UGH!", but not insurmountable. And definitely unnecessary for that kit. But is the kit canopy length correct? I often wish aftermarket went with 'true' measurements rather than the kit's interpretation. Often they err on assisting the builder rather than sticking to the correct values. Which is mostly best for some, but not all.
  2. Very neat riveting lines John, and right about where to draw the line, at least in 32 scale. It's surprisingly hard to find a clear enough wing underside photo - even for the pylon attachments points when unloaded. But the white undersides of the linked YAV-8B 158394 photo bear out the lack of access panels. I strongly doubt there was any revision to the composite wing once the wing design was finalised and the mould/autoclave built.
  3. Very convincing nose sensor and associated paraphernalia behind that outer lens.
  4. It's looking very good so far, John. To digress very slightly, it occurred to me that ye olde ADEN cannon pods were rarely (but not never) seen in the last few years of the Harrier's RAF career. In contrast, an LRMTS GR3 would look naked without them, but later on the weapon stations were more often seen with nav. and targeting pods fitted for the 21st century version of precision strike. Bur the ADENs might be more congruent with the darkgreen/lichen green era, should you decide a grey scheme is too humdrum. Though grey schemes (there was also the early light grey undersides with the hard demarcation) are certainly a common and suitable option.
  5. As there are what appears to be a moveable door just inside the main intake (for boundary layer control?) I'd deduce the ducts under the rear canopy skirt are their outlet ducts.
  6. Those wing tip detail enhancements make all the difference, John. One small tip that may help others wondering about sanding lights to a nice curve, is to gradually bring the squared off end of the clear sprue/rod of adequate diameter close to the base of a lighted candle flame. At the right point (found by trial and error, depending on sprue/rod thickness) the end of the rod will melt into a dome. It forms a mushroom rivet-like head, which can grow fairly large as it melts back as it's brought closer towards the heat. If care is not taken, it can also burst into a (tiny) flaming fireball. For this model, the flange so formed at the cooled end of the rod would be sanded away leaving a perfectly clear and curved end. You can also paint the curved area silver, then when dry, glue it into a landing light body or whatever. When firmly fixed, the cut end can be more easily sanded to the flatter curve of a lamp's lens and polished back to clarity. And you get the same internal inverted reflection that make MV lenses and similar look so good.
  7. Oh c'mon F, those Vulcan barrels don't even rotate. It's like you're not trying any more. But to be serious, it's coming along very well. Interested to see how the skin texture looks with a matt coat of camouflage on it.
  8. There are 12 openings, with the 12th slat hiding below the forward edge of the area. Pity it's correct really, because 'these go up to 11' could've been a memorable meme.
  9. I likely depends on where in the world you are, but in Europe, ordering direct from SH's website is generally the cheapest option. Unless someone on eBay is offloading one.
  10. Hey John, wonderful to see you back in action and applying your eye and creativity to model aircraft again. I haven't actually begun my journey in miniature from P1127 to .... I suppose AV-8B+ being the arguable end-point? - in my fairly recently adopted 1/32 scale, but certainly will be storing your Gen II Harrier improvements for when I get to them. I still can't believe we in the UK retired one of the surviving pinnacles of Brit excellence and world-beating ingenuity over 4 years ago. And did I say great to see you back?
  11. Looking very good F. Your stressed skin effect looks great. Gary's parts also make a big difference which is good to see. I bought them too, but am currently too involved in other projects (F-14/Hurricane/Tempest) to get on with actually using them. Great to see your progress, and for future projects, remember! Ejection seats should always be clean and fresh looking! Nobody would trust them looking any other way.
  12. Hi Don, can't believe nobody has answered you yet. The Martin-Baker Type 9 seat fitted in RAF GR1s has a semi-gloss black seat frame, with bright aluminium rivet detail. The seat's back cushions are an olive drab shade, being a slightly greyer shade on the actual seat pack the pilot sits on. Straps are light tan for the main harness, with light greyish-blue leg restraints. Check when searching for images that you're looking at a Harrier seat, and not a Jaguar one as both used the Type 9. The cockpit walls should all be Dark Admiralty Grey (very similar to Dark Sea Grey but maybe just a touch lighter). Airfix may mean that the part of the bulkhead forming the nose gear wheel well interior should be light aircraft grey, but that's not correct. The gear leg and wheel hub certainly are LAG, but the bay walls themselves should be white - although it gets very dirty and grimy. My supposition is that first generation Harriers were all manufactured in the UK, and will be the same basic schemes whether US, UK, Thai or Spanish. What happened after delivery and when is something you'll need to consult photos on to be sure. For model purposes the IPMS's Harrier SIG is a great resource.
  13. Thanks for posting, it's good to see some old school Phantoms and Tomcats still flying. It's also reassuring that even in the Islamic Republic, photo hosting sites time out just like those in the West (if you've checked back to the earlier pages. Business is business no matter where in the world you are.
  14. Hi John, I'm very sorry to hear about your circumstances but glad to hear you yourself are OK, or as well as you can be with the grief and stress of events. The only consolation I can offer is that time is a great healer. It may sound glib, but I know from experience it's true. best wishes, Charles
  15. The Fujimi F-4E is not a great Phantom model. The proportions are out, and the bulged wing for the larger main gear are simply two 'U' shaped lumps sticking out at right angles to the centreline. They're crisply moulded and when they came out I bought four with a view to converting two or three using the Entex kit. But the more I researched Phantoms, the more un-Phantomlike the Fujimi became. I finished one, but then rumours of a new Phantom coming from Monogram and then a family from Hasegawa killed any further interest. I kept a set of wings with a view to sanding off the bulges for an F-4B combination with the Monogram F-4C, but they were too small and the outlines woeful.