strikeeagle801 Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 Title pretty much says it all. Picked some of this up tonight, and am wondering how best to use it. Do you need to thin it (if so, with that?) Any spray tips? Any advice appreciated. Aaron Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 Don't thin. Don't get too far back or you'll get a very gritty finish. Do practice. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
billb Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 don;t breathe the fumes Quote Link to post Share on other sites
davevw Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 Easy stuff to use! Remember to shake well and turn down the psi, then spray. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Barneydhc82 Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 I've used the White Primer decanted into my Iwata and straight from the can at 12 psi, it is great stuff. Barney Old number 13 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SERNAK Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 To summarize, protect your face (nose - eyes) from fumes / small paint particles; don't thin it; spray it at 12 psi from a close distance; and of course, practice a lot. Oh, and good luck!!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 Alcad II isn't like airbrushing paints. Prep is everything. For prep work make sure that all your putty work has been sealed with thin CA glue. Then sand lightly with 600 wet. Polish the whole model in stages: 4,000/6,000/8,000/,12,000. It should be smooth and very shiny. Now you prime. I use either Alcad Gloss Black or Model Master Semi gloss Black. Let it dry for several days to a full week. Then polish the black primer. Now you're ready to spray the Alcad II. Don't thin it as it's already at the proper consistency. Make sure that you have proper ventilation, this stuff is toxic. I use a mask and a home made spray booth. 12-15 psi(really depends on your painting setup), and stay about 6 inches from the model. Keep the gun moving. Light even coats to build up the surface. I would really advise you to practice 1st. If you have a scrap fuselage or wing use them. If not, buy the cheapest model you can find. I also use their sealer, not Future/Pledge. Gloss black give you the shiniest/smoothest surface. Semi gloss black looks more like oxidized aluminum. Gray cuts the depth of the shine down, and the metalizer just isn't as metallic looking, but still looks like oxidized metal. You can mix and match for nearly an unlimited color range. Like everything else, practice makes perfect. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fly-n-hi Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 (edited) You only need to spray a gloss black base coat for the Alclad II High Shine paints. The regular shades don't need it. Edited March 24, 2014 by Fly-n-hi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RichardL Posted April 11, 2014 Share Posted April 11, 2014 Add a small BB or two into the bottle and shake it up real good before pouring it into your airbrush. Other than that, it's pretty easy to spray. Use low air pressure and stay close to the surface. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
strikeeagle801 Posted April 11, 2014 Author Share Posted April 11, 2014 Thank's guys. I was able to get the cockpit primed, and it turned out just fine. So far, so good! Aaron Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Barneydhc82 Posted April 11, 2014 Share Posted April 11, 2014 Aaron: If you are doing a BMF, the best Gloss Black primer is Tamiya TS-14 in the rattle can. I cut a 3" length of drinking straw and tape it to the nozzle then decant directly to the airbrush paint cup. Let it gas-off for a few minutes then airbrush onto the model at 12 psi. This stuff dries fast, smooth and glossy. Barney http://www.barneysairforce.com Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted April 11, 2014 Share Posted April 11, 2014 Aaron: If you are doing a BMF, the best Gloss Black primer is Tamiya TS-14 in the rattle can. I cut a 3" length of drinking straw and tape it to the nozzle then decant directly to the airbrush paint cup. Let it gas-off for a few minutes then airbrush onto the model at 12 psi. This stuff dries fast, smooth and glossy. Barney http://www.barneysairforce.com The Tamiya paint in the aerosol can is lacquer based, and of course pre-thinned. You would be better off price & time wise to just use the Alcad Black primer which is also lacquer based and pre-thinned. That way you don't have to deal with the decanting process, which can get messy & have those fumes to deal with if you don't cover the container correctly. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Barneydhc82 Posted April 11, 2014 Share Posted April 11, 2014 I tried the Alclad II Black, as have many others and if it ever dries, it might be OK but...I'll stay with The Tamiya TS-14. Barney Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RichardL Posted April 11, 2014 Share Posted April 11, 2014 Alcad Black primer which is also lacquer based and pre-thinned. Alclad Gloss Black primer is not lacquer based. It is enamel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RichardL Posted April 11, 2014 Share Posted April 11, 2014 I tried the Alclad II Black, as have many others and if it ever dries, it might be OK This is odd because mine requires only a few hours to dry. Never had any issues with it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted April 11, 2014 Share Posted April 11, 2014 I stand corrected on the Alcad Gloss primer as the back of the bottle says: Contains MIneral Spirits. I've used it a few times and it dried to the touch after a few hours. I lightly polished it after several days with no issues. I did apply it in light even coats rather then one coat right after another. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
strikeeagle801 Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share Posted April 12, 2014 No BMF here. I actually used the primer for an Aires resin cockpit set...The 1/48 AH-64D. Aaron Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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