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About RichardL

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    Full Blown Model Geek

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    WA, USA
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    Modern jet fighter, bomber, and attack aircraft.

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  1. Any metal primer will do, such as Tamiya surface primer or Gunze Mr. Metal Primer. AK acrylics might even stick well to bare metal parts. Do some testing to find out.
  2. I would replace "most acrylic brands" with "some acrylic brands". I have zero issue airbrushing acrylics. In fact, I can spray acrylics much better than enamels. Modern acrylics do not tend to exhibit tip dry.
  3. Micro Flat always gives me a finish with a slight sheen - not completely flat.
  4. I would go with a color laser printer because the print is more durable and doesn't bleed like ink would. Plus, it's not necessary to seal the decals with a sealer/setter. The best paper to use, of course, would be decal paper for laser printers: Waterslide Decal Paper for Laser
  5. Vallejo Model Air Dark Ghost Gray is pretty close:
  6. Here is Mr. Color 307 laid next to the actual Dark Ghost Gray color chip: It's slightly too dark and too blue.
  7. Gunze is not very close, and you will need to lighten it just a tad.
  8. I'll take 48-046 F-16C Hill Vipers. Please PM me your mailing address so I can send you payment for it. Thanks.
  9. A coat or two of clear gloss for the decals will darken the color. Another coat of clear gloss to protect the paint and decals before washing will darken the color even more.
  10. You can just use plain tap water mixed with a few drops of dishwashing liquid. You can also use isopropyl alcohol to clean your brushes.
  11. Badger Stynylrez primer. Still need to wear a dust mask while spraying it though.
  12. I find this hard to believe. Don't the colors have to pass federal inspections?
  13. Here is a picture showing the two actual color chips. The difference between the two is clearly visible.
  14. Not a good practice/habit to keep. It is always best to thin the paint right before airbrushing.
  15. Like these? 1/72 Russian Pilots Seated
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