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  1. With all the necessary details to build a complete rear AWS-cockpit!!!
  2. Perhaps you could use Gunze's Off-White with some raw umber oil wash to replicate the effect?
  3. I had a Spitfire painted and applied the decals approximately 3 years ago, and last May when I finally decided to finish it I noticed that the paint underneath was full of cracks, including the decals. I remember that the paint was let to dry for two weeks before I applied the gloss varnish. Somebody had told me that if I use the Levelling thinner to thin the Mr Surfacer 1500 I could get a smooth result and I thought this could work but apparently it didn't. The same thing happened to another kit that had bigger decals, the Hasegawa's Fuji T-1. Decals and varnish: full
  4. Have you tried this website - the48ers.com? The guy who owns the online store - Ilias - is legit and ships items very fast.
  5. So, that's why I see "cracks" on the paint and in some cases on the decals. Man, I'm still learning !!!!! So, what is it good for if it causes shrinkage? Only for dioramas?
  6. It is better known as "procrastination" AND believe me I am also full of it!!! Unfortunately, this can take you back on your progress even days! By the way, I have never seen this photo before. Where did you get it? From the grain I can see that is probably from a magazine or a book.....?
  7. Every time I check to see if there are any updates with your build I stumble upon the photo you have uploaded with those amazing decals from Quinta. It's a pity you had to order the Eduard set. There is no comparison.
  8. Take your painted models outside to test and compare the results. After all the picture you have posted above is taken in natural light. When you try to compare hues using artificial light you will always get the wrong impressions. At least this is what I have noted on my painted models. Painting models is an extensive and complicated subject by itself, particularly when you're trying to achieve the result we see in the picture. But, as I have said many times in the past, the level of scale modellers we have in the forum is definitely a source that can help solve a lot
  9. If for some reason the primer (black) you have applied "blends" with the colours you mention, you could apply a layer of gloss varnish to "seal" the primer. Otherwise, you could use Gunze's grey primer that already has a hue you can take advantage of. Just my two cents. Sernak
  10. So, we definitely NEED a new kit. I wonder How many years has Hasegawa to launch a new mould kit????
  11. How "bad" are these two kits? Particularly the Savage? As for the 1/72 Greyhound WE DO NEED ONE. We've been waiting for ages!!!
  12. How about in 1/32? I know I ask too much but, you never know! Right?
  13. Only if I win the Lottery! then, yes, I will have the time and the financial resources to first of all, finish my stash which is 100plus kits and simultaneously by "a few" new ones. I think the ideal formula is; build your kits at a certain standard (remove excess glue, fill in the gaps, avoid the "orange peel" effect, and etc.) and devote some extra time only on those models that for some reason are more important. For example, the aircraft you used to fly or, the one you dad used to, etc.
  14. So, during the 50s they were wearing flight jackets with a lot of patches on. I thought that this was a "trend" that started in the late 70s but obviously I was wrong. Now, where do I have that leather flight jacket....hmmmmm🤔
  15. Always put in almost boiling water the plastic parts that are wrapped. Have done it a couple of times and I had managed to reshape the parts (ESCI S-3 Viking wings). For me, the worst thing that I have ever experienced is accidentally placing too much glue on the clear parts. Always gloss coat (Future) the clear parts before you use glue. However, if you're using Humbrol's Clearfix you don't need to do this. Just my two cents
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