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Fishwelding

Polishing compounds for clear parts

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I'm interested in improving my processes for polishing clear parts.  For example, after having scraped and sanded a mold seam from a jet canopy, I'd like to polish it back to a clear, high shine.  I'm seeing folks do this with motor tools, and I have one of Dremel's cordless units that goes to really low RPMs. But I should probably do this with some sort of polishing cream or compound.  Anyone have favorites?

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i use colgate non-gel toothpaste

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Posted (edited)

I use water and a step process with Micro mesh.

 

Depending of the level of scratches in the clear part.

Starting with 2400 - wet

4000 - wet

6000- wet

8000-wet

 

Then finish with a buffing block - from the nail polishing world, usually a white smooth finish.

 

If this doesn't make it very clear to your satisfaction, dip in future.

 

This canopy had a deformity in the clear part and used this process to buff it out.

IMG-20200329-153244.jpg

 

IMG-20200329-153124.jpg

 

IMG-20200406-171820.jpg

 

Cheers

AFM

Edited by AlienFrogModeller

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2 hours ago, karl h said:

i use colgate non-gel toothpaste

 

Gives your parts that hint of minty freshness! :whistle:

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10 hours ago, Mstor said:

 

Gives your parts that hint of minty freshness! :whistle:

Nice!!

I giggled at that one!

 

Plaque free as well too.

 

Cheers

AFM

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I get great results with Tamiya sanding sponges..1500, 2000, 3000 and a 4000 smooth white polishing block then a dip in future.   Perfectly crystal clear canopies look unrealistic to me and I'm happy with my results but if your set on the idea I've seen guys who like the Tamiya rubbing compounds.  

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Posted (edited)

I ran an experiment using the Micromesh sanding pads, and some Novus #2 and #3 polish with a motor tool.  The results aren't bad.  I deliberately scuffed a piece of clear styrene (an old Monogram SB2C canopy) with some 600 grit sandpaper.  Next, I used the entire Micromesh set, followed by the liquid polishes.  Although the canopy polished to a shine and was reasonably clear, it still had some noticeable scratching.  

 

I also tried some Tamiya polishes, and they seemed to work about the same as the Novus stuff.

 

I suspected that I should have started with some of the finer grits in the Micromesh set, such as 2400 mentioned by @AlienFrogModeller.   I'll test again on that basis.

 

I've dipped canopies in Future in the past, with success.  But I'd like to see if I can do without that step, for various reasons, and I suspect it's possible.  

Edited by Fishwelding

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13 minutes ago, Fishwelding said:

I ran an experiment using the Micromesh sanding pads, and some Novus #2 and #3 polish with a motor tool.  The results aren't bad.  I deliberately scuffed a piece of clear styrene (an old Monogram SB2C canopy) with some 600 grit sandpaper.  Next, I used the entire Micromesh set, followed by the liquid polishes.  Although the canopy polished to a shine and was reasonably clear, it still had some noticeable scratching.  

 

I also tried some Tamiya polishes, and they seemed to work about the same as the Novus stuff.

 

I suspected that I should have started with some of the finer grits in the Micromesh set, such as 2400 mentioned by @AlienFrogModeller.   I'll test again on that basis.

 

I've dipped canopies in Future in the past, with success.  But I'd like to see if I can do without that step, for various reasons, and I suspect it's possible.  

Sir,

Ensure they are wet, plain water is fine. And IF you think your done polishing while wet...polish  bit longer that you think you should at each level. The extra bit of time makes a big difference.

 

Cheers

 

AFM

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Brasso on cardboard works well for the final polish, too. A quick dip in Future (after washing the Brasso off thoroughly in water) finishes it off nicely.

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