Flankerman Posted May 22, 2005 Share Posted May 22, 2005 I, ve just got aires wheel bay and exhaust. The detail is very good, same casting qualitiy as in aires cockpit. These pictures took a friend of mine and I wanted to show you some, since I haven't found any good pictures of wheel bay on net. I'm very impressed with the qualitiy of the exhaust, and with the price also . Skuki, You need to bookmark :- http://www.epozar.com/militaria/brno/su27.html All the detail you need............. Ken Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zactoman Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 I, ve just got aires wheel bay and exhaust. I'm very impressed with the qualitiy of the exhaust, and with the price also . Any pics of the exhausts? Mine haven't arrived yet... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
skuki Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 (edited) Here is one pic of exhaust. Edited May 23, 2005 by skuki Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Martinsson Posted May 24, 2005 Share Posted May 24, 2005 Zactoman, I just remebered that a hobbyshop in Wellington, NZ has helped me a couple of times to get in contact with Tore Martin, the man behind Falcon. He has actually helped me to get a couple of vacforms that has been sold out a long time ago. Perhaps he can help you get in touch with Tore Martin if your on-going canopy plan doesn´t work out quite well. The e-mail adress to the company is: modelcrafts@xtra.co.nz and the site is located at www.modelcraftsandhobbies.co.nz The site doesn´t work for me right now but I hope that is just temporarely. Good luck with the canopies! I am really itching to get my hands on a set! All the best Martin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zactoman Posted May 24, 2005 Share Posted May 24, 2005 Thank you for the lead Martin. I have been in contact with Tore through a friend and found out that his computer had crashed and he hadn't recieved my previous requests for help. His response was that he would help, but couldn't for a few months. I'm thankful for this and keeping him in mind as a back-up plan. Because the vendor I've been dealing with locally has invested a good amount of his time helping me, I'm going to give him a crack at it. The guy is very good at vacuumforming and I'm confident he will do a good job. Unfortunately the issue of plastic has arisen again. The sample of Taiwanese PETG that he had, that worked better than the other PETGs is not available. His supplier doesn't carry it anymore and it is only sold by the truckload otherwise. I'm going there Wednesday to pick up a "really nice" part made with .020" instead of .030". I'll trim it to make sure it will fit, and decide whether the thinner plastic is adequate. If so, I'll make the parts with it. ;) In the mean time, I've been studying the intakes ad-nauseam and just started doing a little hacking and whacking. I'll be doing them pretty much from scratch rather than modifying the kit parts. Nothing worth taking pics of yet... Thanks for postin the pics of the cans Marko! They look much nicer than the kit parts! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
geedubelyer Posted May 24, 2005 Share Posted May 24, 2005 In the mean time, I've been studying the intakes ad-nauseam and just started doing a little hacking and whacking. I'll be doing them pretty much from scratch rather than modifying the kit parts. Nothing worth taking pics of yet... Aha...! See PM Chris, you've just given me the answer. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dehowie Posted May 24, 2005 Share Posted May 24, 2005 G'day Chris Got my 4 noses today in the post all arrived downunder OK. Great service from the States tome down in OZ in under a week! Excellent. Also the noses are lovely and i love the resin you are using it has a beautiful smooth finish. Worth every cent. Anyway thanks and i'll look forward to the canopy sets plus whatever else you choose to do. Thanks Darren Howie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flankerman Posted May 24, 2005 Share Posted May 24, 2005 (edited) Has anyone fitted Zactoman's excellent windscreen over Trumpeters coaming yet ??? or am I at the bleeding edge ? I know that Chris mentioned he had modify the Black Box coaming(?) - but I am having to do the same with the Trumpeter part. No wonder Trumpeters windscreen is curved - it has to be to clear the kit coaming. I have had to remove my scratch-built cine camera and re-make it smaller - and shave off a few mm from the stbd side of the coaming (the box-shaped bit) and a smidgeon from the port side - to get it to fit under Chris's windscreen. I was worried that the kit HUD would not fit - but it does - just! - but I had to shave a bit off the top of the uprights though. No fault with Chris's windscreen, which is spot on - clearly an issue with the Trumpeter part. It is all coming together now though......... Pics to follow.... Has anyone test-fitted the Aires coaming - plus HUD - under Chris's canopy ?? Ken Edited May 24, 2005 by Flankerman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flankerman Posted May 24, 2005 Share Posted May 24, 2005 Here's my original kit coaming - unmodified except for the addition of a scratch-built cine-camera... Ken Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flankerman Posted May 24, 2005 Share Posted May 24, 2005 This shows the bits I had to shave off... and build a smaller cine camera... Ken Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flankerman Posted May 24, 2005 Share Posted May 24, 2005 I had to shave a bit off the port side as well Ken Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flankerman Posted May 24, 2005 Share Posted May 24, 2005 This is what it looks like under the kit windscreen.... Ken Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flankerman Posted May 24, 2005 Share Posted May 24, 2005 And under the much better Zactoman windscreen... Ken Quote Link to post Share on other sites
skuki Posted May 24, 2005 Share Posted May 24, 2005 Ken, this looks good, but I think you glued hud way arround, just roatate it for 180 degrees. Yes, under the Zactomans canopy it looks much better Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zactoman Posted May 24, 2005 Share Posted May 24, 2005 (edited) After much deliberation and mental anguish, I decided to go for it. I considered several methods of doing the conversion. I decided to fabricate the majority of it from sheet plastic rather than modify the kit parts. I considered vacuumforming a shell and merging it to make the master pattern, but decided that by building it in place I would have more control over making it fit the kit and still be accurate. At this point it is just a rough shape, not very much to look at, but it's a start :) Edited December 7, 2007 by Zactoman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
su27rules Posted May 24, 2005 Share Posted May 24, 2005 Nice work Ken,but I think you placed HUD on the wrong side,need to rotate it for 180. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
geedubelyer Posted May 24, 2005 Share Posted May 24, 2005 (edited) ;) Keep up the good work Ken, we're all learning tons from your build.... Err,........on another note......umm :blink: ......is the HUD on back to front on the top of the coaming? .... :D *EDIT* Sorry.....I think it's already been spotted. At this point it is just a rough shape, not very much to look at, but it's a start All right........ Way to go Zactoman :) Thanks for posting the pic Chris, it gives a great insight into how you do what you do. To think that you start like this and end up with the finished article.....excellent.! Early days I know but if all goes well, do you plan to incude any rib detail on the lower surface? Edited May 24, 2005 by geedubelyer Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flankerman Posted May 24, 2005 Share Posted May 24, 2005 Nice work Ken,but I think you placed HUD on the wrong side,need to rotate it for 180. Thanks guys - I never even noticed it was the wrong way round - its an age thing!! I have just been downstairs, carefully removed it - and cemented it back on the right way round - phew! Chris - geat work on those intakes !! I know you haven't finished yet - and you probably don't need me to tell you - but you also need to fill in the 'dip' between the front, separate, intake and the 'fixed' rear engine trunking - where the rearmost piece of blue tape on the trunking is in your photo. I added lots of Milliput on mine - over the joint line - to get a dead straight bottom line in side profile. I then had to sand it all down - and re-scribe the detail!! Chris - why don't you just scrap all the Trumpeter parts and make the whole thing in resin - it would probably be easier in the long run :lol: Keep up the good work. Ken Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zactoman Posted May 25, 2005 Share Posted May 25, 2005 Early days I know but if all goes well, do you plan to incude any rib detail on the lower surface? I plan to include everything! ;) Is Neomega doing intakes? Anybody? This quote from Geedubelyers in-progress build : Apparently the seat is to be released first and the guys have to convince their artisan to continue with the tub as he wants to fix the intake problems first!! I don't want to be releasing all the same stuff as everybody else! Actually I've been hoping somebody else would have done the intakes by now so I didn't have to! Chris - why don't you just scrap all the Trumpeter parts and make the whole thing in resin - it would probably be easier in the long run Canopy, nosecone, intakes, I'm working on it! :D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flankerman Posted May 25, 2005 Share Posted May 25, 2005 Chris - why don't you just scrap all the Trumpeter parts and make the whole thing in resin - it would probably be easier in the long run Canopy, nosecone, intakes, I'm working on it! Plus............... New wingtip launch rails - I haven't checked the others yet. New nosewheel FOD guard. New starboard fin - with corrected aerial engraving on the inner face. New port fin - with added baffle in the intake. Added Exhaust vents on the underside. and that's just the CORRECTIONS !! (OK so I'm being just a little picky with the last three) That's all apart from the detailing bits supplied by Aires, BB, Eduard etc. Ken PS - The lug on the rear of the main u/c leg - through which the pivot pin on the upper part of the scissor link fits - is too high up the leg. This results in the scissor link adopting a too wide Vee shape when the spring is depressed. I have 'sawn' the lug off - and fitted a new lug (made from a short section of aluminium tube) further down - near the bottom of the leg. Then I drilled out the linkage/pivots in the plastic scissor-link parts and made 'pins' from brass wire - so it all works as per the real thing. I really must get out more !! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zactoman Posted May 25, 2005 Share Posted May 25, 2005 About the scissor-link. If you look at this picture (Gear strut), you can see that the two parts of the link are joined side-by-side with a shaft, where the kit features one part fitting between two lugs on the other part. I had my shocks working and opted to glue them. This will better allow for adding wires and plumbing and allow the plane to sit where I want it... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
geedubelyer Posted May 25, 2005 Share Posted May 25, 2005 I glued the nose gear so that I could work better with it. I'm still not sure about a working suspension on the model unless you plan to make whistling noises and brumm the thing up and down the lino... :P I've followed the walk-around link and studied P20 of Lock-On a bit. These bad boys are pretty complicated. Has anyone got any close-up detail shots of the inside of the main wheel and the scissor links? p.s. Sorry to scare everyone on the Neomega intake thing, I believe I was mistaken. OOPS! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flankerman Posted May 25, 2005 Share Posted May 25, 2005 Don't get scared !!! It's only me - sat in a Su-27 at Kubinka airbase in 1994.... Apart from the handsome would-be pilot, the photo does show the HUD to good effect. I was worried that the kit HUD (when put on the right way round!) would not fit under Chris's windscreen - especially when the resin arch was fitted. But this pic shows that the HUD is well outside the canopy arch...... There are some other interesting things in this pic - including the sliding throttle above my left forearm, the three inverted L-shaped lugs on the canopy sill and the tapered shank on the bottom of the windscreen arch - all part of the canopy locking mechanism. You can also just make out the cine camera - far right under the windscreen - and the 'bungee' type chord going back from the top of the K-36 seat headbox. Finally - note the 'lip' around the windscreen arch - which continues along the sills on both sides. I've also lost some more hair and the beard is a lot whiter since this photo was taken........... Ken Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flankerman Posted May 25, 2005 Share Posted May 25, 2005 Has anyone got any close-up detail shots of the inside of the main wheel and the scissor links? 'ere ya go geedubelyer........... from my collection.. This first one shows the scissors fully compressed. Note where the top scissor link attaches to the leg - way below where Trumpeter has it.. Ken Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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