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Lucas C.

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About Lucas C.

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  1. Thanks, Bill, that's very useful information! I'll start document the cost of the kits and aftermarket items that I used. I'll have to talk to the moving company about their policy on stuff like this, but I do think they'll balk at paying anything more than that.
  2. I recently moved and (surprise) discovered that the movers irreparably damaged several of my built models. The movers have given me forms to file a claim with them. How do I value my built models, and where can I find documentary evidence to back up those valuations? Thanks for any help you can give!
  3. I used to spray all types several years ago, but now I'm only spraying acrylics (Vallejo, AK, Ammo, and, every now and then, Tamiya). Maybe my gloss coats are too thick? I tend to have to put down multiple coats to get a good gloss and avoid pebbling.
  4. I don't use very much thinner with it, but I don't measure it out precisely, either. Sometimes I spray it near (for small parts). Afterward I simply leave the model in the spray booth or off to the side for a while (sometimes partially covered with tupperware to minimize dust on the finish). I only have one bottle of the gloss coat, so I guess it could be a bad one.
  5. I've used Vallejo's clear gloss for a few models and have noticed that I can still leave fingerprints in the finish even after a week of letting it dry. It's not particularly cold, warm, dry, or humid where I airbrush (70 degrees 50% humidity on average), and I've only thinned it with Vallejo's own airbrush thinner when spraying it. I remember having a similar problem years ago with a different brand of clear coat (Maybe MM Acryl? Maybe Tamiya X-22?). Another thing I've noticed when applying weathering and decals is that the gloss coat doesn't feel tacky when I first begin handling the model, but after half an hour or so of constant handling, it begins to feel slightly tacky, and then I start leaving prints. Any ideas how I can avoid this/fix the issue? Thanks!
  6. I think you'd be better off buying Tamiya's own retarder.
  7. I think this thread has underscored an enduring problem with trying to define "the best" kit of any given subject. What is "the best?" Is it the one that is most accurate shape-wise? The one with the most detail? The one with the most accurate detail? The one that is easiest to build? Everyone has a slightly different view of what "the best" means, but most folks never explicitly state what their criteria are, so we end up arguing round and round on some kits. No one kit is going to score perfectly on all criteria (or even come close, in many cases), so I suggest that, for this exercise, you consider explicitly stating what is being measured instead of using "such and such a kit is hands-down the best F-somethingorother." Better to say that the kit has the most correct shape (or note where it has shape errors), has the most accurate detail, etc. For example, take the A-7 kits out there. Trumpeter's kit is more detailed but has shape issues and crappy stores; the Fujimi kit has an intake trunk and an accurate shape, but detail is not as good as Trumpeter's; and the ESCI/Italeri kit has a generally accurate shape, better stores than the Fujimi kit, is easier to build than the Fujimi, but has sparse detail, particularly in the cockpit. Which one is the best? Better to just list the pluses and minuses than to solve a pointless argument. My contribution--the Hasegawa F-117 has good detail, is accurate in shape and dimensions, and includes a detailed bomb bay in some boxings. The is a join at the wing root that creates additional work that is avoided in other kits and has some poorly placed ejector pin marks on the landing gear. The Academy kit is less detailed, has intakes that are a bit too narrow, and has incorrect pitot tubes.
  8. I have one of these, but they appear to be OOP. Hobbyzone makes similar hanging racks that should work equally well.
  9. I generally spray them straight from the bottle for just that reason. They do seem to be thinner than other similar paints like Vallejo Model Air.
  10. The membership doesn't seem all that worthwhile. Scalemates has links to reviews and also links AM products to the kits they are designed for. The 5% discount might be worthwhile if you order more that $400 per year from them.
  11. I bet there were many others that did the same. A few of the items I wanted were out of stock when I put in my order. Not too many, thankfully.
  12. I managed to put in a last-minute order on Sunday thanks to this thread. Stocked up on a few items I had been eyeing but hadn't pulled the trigger on. Thanks for the heads up!
  13. I got a reply from Mission Models: That's good news. I'll give some of the colors a try once the new ones are available.
  14. I saw an announcement from Mission Models back in April stating that they were going to be broadening the range to include a lot of useful paints, but since then I have heard nothing. Instead, the Web site now shows several colors as "sold out" and there is no hint that new ones are coming. Is the expansion of the range still going to happen? Is MM postponing it? Or are they winding it down? The "sold out" part is what triggers my concern that the paint line may go away. I was thinking of trying the paint, as it has gotten very good reviews, but I'm not willing to invest the money and time required to learn it if the brand will cease to exist. Anyone know?
  15. I'd go for the RG3 or the G5--better to have a dedicated instrument that does one thing really well instead of a jack-of-all-trades, master of none. I also was tempted by a fan-pattern cap for my Grex Tritium, but spray guns with a fan pattern produce a lot less overspray than airbrushes using a fan cap. That's what sold me.
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