Lucas C.

Members
  • Content count

    435
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Lucas C.

  • Rank
    Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!)

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    McLean, VA

Recent Profile Visitors

6,415 profile views
  1. I got a reply from Mission Models: That's good news. I'll give some of the colors a try once the new ones are available.
  2. I saw an announcement from Mission Models back in April stating that they were going to be broadening the range to include a lot of useful paints, but since then I have heard nothing. Instead, the Web site now shows several colors as "sold out" and there is no hint that new ones are coming. Is the expansion of the range still going to happen? Is MM postponing it? Or are they winding it down? The "sold out" part is what triggers my concern that the paint line may go away. I was thinking of trying the paint, as it has gotten very good reviews, but I'm not willing to invest the money and time required to learn it if the brand will cease to exist. Anyone know?
  3. I'd go for the RG3 or the G5--better to have a dedicated instrument that does one thing really well instead of a jack-of-all-trades, master of none. I also was tempted by a fan-pattern cap for my Grex Tritium, but spray guns with a fan pattern produce a lot less overspray than airbrushes using a fan cap. That's what sold me.
  4. Not to further muddy the waters, but consider the Iwata LPH-50 if you have a compressor with sufficient CFM to run it. I've got the 0.6mm model and love it. I spray 1/35 armor and 1/72 planes. It's a bit of overkill for the smaller planes in 1/72, but perfect for 1/35 armor and larger 1/72 models.
  5. Nate--I've done that on one model (left the decals unsealed) because it was NMF, but I'm not sure it will last for more than a few years. A lot depends on the quality of the decals. I'm not worried about fading--chances are they won't fade unless exposed to direct sunlight every day, for the whole day, for months or years. I think your approach makes sense in theory, but you might want to think of ways of strengthening the decal's glue--maybe put a tiny drop of diluted white glue under each one?
  6. Great--I'll be waiting for the email!
  7. That's great news! I've got my eye on that one and a couple of other sheets, so I'll definitely be putting in an order for a sheet.
  8. I'd like to buy a sheet (and a couple of others, but see that the purchasing link is still deactivated. Thanks!
  9. Lucas, I found you after an extensive internet search.  I am interested in these decals & mask from you 2014 sale list, if still available.  R/ Dutch

     

    Eduard XS063, B-17 F/G mask, for Academy kit (says Fujimi on the label, but the Eduard site says these are for the Academy kit), new, sealed, $3 (two available)

    ScaleMaster SM-17, 1/72 & 1/144 Low Visibility USAF Tactical Insignia/Rescue Markings, new, sealed, $7.50

    1. Lucas C.

      Lucas C.

      Dutch--sorry, but I've moved and put most of my collection in long-term storage until I return in 3 years or so.  I think both are still available, but I don't remember for sure.  If you're still looking for them in 3 years, let me know and I'll check my stash.

       

      Regards,

      Lucas

    2. Dutch

      Dutch

      Roger!  Thanks for the notice.  I will keep looking and if I don't find anything, I will ask again. R/ Dutch

  10. Lucas, I found you after an extensive internet search.  I am interested in these decals & mask from you 2014 sale list, if still available.  R/ Dutch

     

    Eduard XS063, B-17 F/G mask, for Academy kit (says Fujimi on the label, but the Eduard site says these are for the Academy kit), new, sealed, $3 (two available)

    ScaleMaster SM-17, 1/72 & 1/144 Low Visibility USAF Tactical Insignia/Rescue Markings, new, sealed, $7.50

  11. You also need to grind material off of the top of the resin well (on the surface that touches the bottom of the cockpit tub). In addition, grind material off of the bottom of the cockpit tub. In some cases with Aires parts you need to shave nearly all of the material off of both parts to get a decent fit. Do it slowly and check your work against a light source. When you can see the light very easily through the part, you're getting close to sanding right through.
  12. Tamiya, Model Master, and Krylon should all work just fine. Other may, too.
  13. Steve--Thanks! That's an interesting idea--I'll talk to my agent to see if they will accept a letter from Rareplanes (or someone similar) in lieu of an appraiser's report.
  14. I've got my stash saved in Scalemates, so I can download it into an Excel spreadsheet. I have input the prices I paid for some of the items, but not all. I just took a look and it seems I've got about 1,500 items total (kits and AM).
  15. I've been told by my insurance company that I need to get my stash professionally appraised so it can be covered by my homeowner's policy. I'm not sure where to begin on this, however. Do I need to hire an appraiser who knows about models, or would any appraiser do? If I need a specialist, does anyone here know where/how I could find an appraiser who knows about scale models? For the appraisal, do I need an inventory of my stash, or will the appraiser make one? Should I include my built models? About how much should I expect to pay (I'm in northern Virginia, if that helps)? I f anyone has gone through this process before, I would really appreciate hearing how it went. My stash is fairly large (north of 300 kits and 1,000 AM items), so I imagine this will be a big undertaking.