Jump to content

shinai

Members
  • Content Count

    152
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by shinai

  1. As mentioned above an airbrush is gonna cost you the most but if you got the cash then go for it. Also, I highly recommend practicing and watching some videos of airbrushing. It took me a little bit to get use to it. I also highly recommend Tamiya brands . . . of just about anything. I get the masking tape from Hobby Lobby, if there is one near you .
  2. I could not agree more. Having started the hobby about a year and a half ago and with my last two builds I have tried to put a lot more into them besides tube glue, a knife, paint and a brush. AB and a compressor were big purchases, but I can tell you that my last two builds look a lot better then my previous ones. As mentioned above my tool collection have just kind of grown as well as the colors I have. I highly recommend checking out Swanny's Tool Tip Page: http://www.swannysmodels.com/Tools.html Also try the tools n tip section tap off of the main page. Like you I am completel
  3. Okay so I went to Hobby Lobby and Michael's and they had no clue what I was talking about. Is there a specific name associated with the product besides retarder?
  4. So I have read about people using a retarder for when they are brushing on acrylics. I main use Tamiya and would like some extra paint time and not be so rushed when brushing certain areas. My question is . . .what kind of retarders are you using? I have looked and no one mentions any by name or what I should look for exactly. I hope this is not a retarded (excuse the pun) question. On another note. I will be in Chicago next month for a conference and am driving in. Are there any good LHS people could recommend. I am hoping to find some Mr. Color or other stuff I can't get out here i
  5. I hear you!! I have almost completed a Mitsubishi Ki-67 "Peggy" and my gosh was masking it a nightmare. I eventually just went with the Tamiya masking take and used the small strips and cut them to size.
  6. I think the sanding and filling part is just something you learn how to do. I use the Tamiya fine surfacer from a can then apply the colors I intend on using. Also, a lot of my first models and even the ones I do now are not perfect. I recommend even though the model maybe "ruined" to just go ahead and complete them and try to perfect your skills.
  7. I pretty much agree. The LHS here stopped carrying Poly scale and Tamiya has been good for me. Especially, since I mostly do Japanese aircraft. For airbrushing I add a little of the Tamiya thinner and it sprays pretty well. When brushing it does dry fast. Which leads me to my question: As a retarded to perhaps giving me more time to brush when I do, what should I use?
  8. Yeah I have the site book marked. Its interesting to see some of the inconsistencies between companies.
  9. Okay so I had a bottle of MM acrylic and today I sprayed a little on a part just to see if maybe I was wrong and seriously it just did not look good. The part was not primed, but still I prefer Tamiya! But, I was to try some Mr. Color. Anyone use this or have some experiences they want to share about Mr. Color?
  10. I ran into this problem as well. As I noticed the apparent color differences between the Poly Scale and the Tamiya IJN and IJA colors. I ended up on settling on the Tamiya brand. However, after reading this I may see if I can find get some Mr. Color. Though all of the LHS within about a 100 miles only carry MM, Tamiya, and Poly Scale. I have a Betty sitting on the shelf as well that I plan on getting to.
  11. Yeah I gave up with MM acrylics a couple months ago. I have found that what I can get locally Tamiya is the best acrylic. However, some of the enamel colors work really well I like better then the Tamiya. To each his own!
  12. I am hoping to finish masking my KI-67 "Peggy". With the semester starting, I am a little swamped right now.
  13. WOW!!!!!!! That camo paint job is awesome!!
  14. LOL . . . . that put a grin on my face!!!
  15. The last time I took a stroll in Akihabara, like 2 years ago, I don't think any of the kits had anything on them from stopping you from opening them. When I was in Japan in January I noticed that some of the models in the Yodobashi in Kichijoji had a security feature around the box. I think security features are becoming more common in Japan, so perhaps maybe shrink wrapping is in the future. Even the Nagasakiya near the Mushashi Koganei station had security features on some of its electronic which I do not ever remember.
  16. I did buy some Tenax 7R and holy cow does that stuff dry fast!!!! I just put together the fuselage of my "Peggy" and used the Tamiya extra thin.
  17. Thanks for the reply. I actually use Tamiya extra thin and Jet and played around with the Testor's liquid cement. I just find that sometimes for smaller parts the Testor's red tube glue just works really well and did not really understand why it is frowned upon. Yes, I prefer the Tamiya paints . . . however, I prefer to the Poly Scale IJN colors over the Tamiya ones.
  18. So I am still pretty new to the hobby still with some of my builds still being five-footers and not nearly as nice as those on the forums, though within the last year my builds are getting to look a lot better. I was at my LHS and one of the things I was picking up was a regular old tube of glue. Another customer asked if this was my first model to which I told him no that I had done a couple builds. He then asked my why I was using tube glue when other types work better and that tube glue is for people who do not know what they are doing. I do use things like epoxy and Jet, but I found tha
  19. I got my badger compressor at Michael's for $112 a little less then the ones mentioned above.
  20. I just bought a badger compressor form Michael's. I had one of the 40% off coupons, but some of the receipts from Michael's sometimes give 50%. I was lucky that my wife had one. I just had to get a regulator to control the psi. Some of the earlier post talk about these and this is going to be cheaper in the long run of just buy the can stuff.
  21. This is the process I have been following at Swanny's site: http://www.swannysmodels.com/Canopies.html Miccara's guide has been pretty helpful as well.
  22. With a baby on the way I am loosing my office where I do my models and moving to the basement. I have thought of building my own paint booth and have looked at some of the ones you can buy, which is why I am thinking of building one. I do like the booths that are made by Bob Pace, but since I am going to have to go up about five feet to an existing window to get rid of the fumes I was wanting to know if the fan is really strong enough to get the job done at only 148CFM. Or any other feedback on them would be appreciated. THANKS
  23. Yeah, I am not sure what caused the color distortion . . . but the first coat of clear gloss did the trick. I am hoping when I apply the flat coat it will stay gone. When I go back into Kansas City this week I am going to pick up some Mr. Thinner to try it out later in place of the Testors thinner. I normally spray some of Testors cleaner through the brush then I take it all a part and clean it with q-tips and some water. Thanks for the input.
  24. KMelz, I am working on my fourth build and am pretty new to the hobby as well. Here are just some random thoughts to maybe help you. I highly recommend priming your models, that has helped me a lot and I also learned that when I was painting with a brush along a taped off portion to paint away from the covered area. This helped prevented some of the problems. Also, I really like using acrylics as they are easy to clean up and if I make a mistake I can generally fix it very easy. however, they dry real quick and I have learned to apply small amounts over and over. When I use the can stuf
  25. So I put on the first coat of clear gloss and the color distortion disappeared. Weird . . .
×
×
  • Create New...