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About zaktwist

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    Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!)
  • Birthday 01/28/1981

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    nottingham , uk

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  1. The rivets are all water slide decals from microscale and archers, good products, check them out
  2. Thanks rod. The archers rivets- I used some from their 'n' scale and some from the 0.4mm sheet. The microscale rivets are larger but don't have a specific scale.
  3. Hi folks Just a small update, lost my mojo over the Xmas period so slow progress. The nts unit..... Version 15 or 16 who knows... It's starting to resemble the real deal now, pics are a little crappy but hopefully you can see the adjustments I've made. Also sourced some mirror paper (the same stuff used on two way mirrors) to use on the left side camera glass, will post pics shortly. Began riveting the tail and boom, looks a little messy at the minute as I'm using humbrol's decal fix. This leaves a gluey residue but has a much stronger bond than microfix/sol. I'm usi
  4. Wow that is one nice model! Yea I think I'm going to have some custom made, still unsure of what airframe tho....
  5. Thanks for the kind words dude, really appreciate it, hope I can continue to do it justice! R.e ref pics, I'm still undecided on what scheme I want, I'm thinking I may get some custom made mask/decals so any ref pics of whiskeys serial numbers, markings etc that you've worked on would go towards helping me decide. Also any pics of the main rotor would be good, specifically the blade tips as I think the academy kits blades are incorrectly shaped Cheers Zak
  6. Hi folks. Im racking my brain on how to create the canopy seals on my current AH-1W build. Im specifically talking about the black/grey rubber seals on the interior of the canopy (see photo)I'd rather not paint them on as I'm after a more 3d effect so any ideas/suggestions on what material to use would be helpfulZak
  7. Exposure to UV light can effect white paint. gunze do a 'UV cut' clear lacquer that may help, I've not tried it though. another tip is to add a small amount of blue paint in with your white paint. Not sure of the science behind this but I believe it puts the white on the blue side of the spectrum as apposed to the yellow side which many white paints fall into, if that makes sense Zak
  8. Thank Rod. Yes I'm using the fireball ALQ, it's pretty darn nice. Zak
  9. Hey chaps hope all are well.Not much to show at the minute. Much of my modelling time has been spent on rebuilding a few elements (3-4 times...) The nts unit is being scratched again as my first (or 5th...who knows) effort was quite abit out, same with the skids.Also have a few goodies on order as well which will hopefully add a few nice touches to the finished kit but I'll reveal those at a later date.Added extratech PE washers to the belly drainage pipes, pipes made from aluminium tubingDetailed the nose drainage pipes with telescoped aluminium tube Built the m197 cannon. This took a good co
  10. Thanks Rod. the vast majority of the brass on the belly i made from brass shim ( the rectangular and circular panels). a few parts are from the eduard exterior set but they have chopped up and reshaped as the eduard set is incorrect in some areas Zak
  11. Hi chaps. More work on the belly. Aerials are from the spares box, added x2 aber hex nuts on nose Remade all of the steps as kit ones are to shortKit aerial was reshaped and attached with epoxy glue. Additional inspection panels added to the boomAttached skids but removed them shortly afterwards as the didn't sit correctly. Think they'll need rebuilding from scratch....buggerCheers folksZak
  12. I would try making a template as you said or use something with a substantial curve to it then gently heat up the blades over a pan of boiling water ( wear gloves!). then bend the blade over the curved object. this worked for me
  13. Love these kind of pics. This project may only be possible for someone with a particularly acute case of AMS....so Oliver ;)
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