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aircal62

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  1. Want to build an F8F Bearcat in 48th scale. I have three options: Hawk Testors, Hobby Craft and HobbyBoss. Any experts out there on this airframe which could shed some opinions about these kits and which seem to be accurate, suggested additions? Thanks in advance
  2. In 1/200 scale Hasegawa makes both the 727-200 and L-1011 both very nice kits. In 1/144 scale Minecraft makes the 727, Airfix did one also but I prefer the Minecraft kit, and the L-1011 was made by Airfix, Revell and Otaki. Otaki is the only accurate kit but it is really expensive and hard to find, Airfix is my second choice and Revell - well this was perhaps their worst airliner kit ever. In I/100 scale Nitto/Entex and perhaps a few others have shared the molds you can find the 727-100 and the L1011. This L1011 is without doubt the nicest L1011 made. Also check with Gemini Jets who makes very, very nice prebuilt and decorated die cast models. Not sure what they currently have but their models are the finest of quality and just stunning. Decals are out there by several manufactures, but also look at Vintage Flyer Decals site.
  3. This might be a good subject also for a general "common markings" type of decal, although the markings changed a lot during the life of the airframes.
  4. Dutch so correct! My ADHD shows again. Good Catch, thank you
  5. Tried for years to find a Super Jolly when flown in SEA which had any kind of nose art or name and never have seen one. However would be nice if you included one wearing SEA camoflage, specific serial number 80357. Aircraft apparently wore standard SEA camo and standard markings with USAF and serial on tail with aircraft number on nose 557. This aircraft is a historic aircraft as it was the command aircraft for the Ton Say POW rescue mission called Operation Kingpin. The Aircraft was designated Apple One during the raid and this raid was also the only time that the A-1E was that far north into North Vietnam. This airframe continued to serve the remainder of the war and returned stateside. It was flown during Operation Desert Shield and also also flew the last operation combat mission by an MH-53M Pave Low IV in Iraq. During Iraqi Freedom this aircraft was nicked named Magnum and had some unusual markings, according to crews working on the aircraft, the number 357 painted and repeated in a gray almost the same gray as the dark gunship gray on the top of the aircraft where it could not be seen from the ground, as well as the name Magnum painted on a removable panel. The name Magnum refers to the serial 357 and the caliber of the gun carried by Dirty Harry. This aircraft after the last mission was flown dirt and all to the USAF Museum where it sits today.
  6. Kursad, there are so many subjects that could be revisited especially since we are now 20-40 years since those subjects were initially done. One I would like to suggest would be for the Monogram 1/48 B-24D, and that would be "Blue Streak". A well known aircraft however I do not know of any decals ever done for this aircraft other than the ones which came with the Revell 1/72 kit.
  7. Good idea! USAAF Mosquitos long overdue
  8. scale hobbyist has them listed for sale if you want the Academy which comes with parts for the B, E and RB versions.
  9. My thoughts on building the Airfix P-51. OK, the Eduard kit is much better details wise, however the Airfix will look great built and you'll find it a good experience. My thoughts: On the instrument panel, before you go out and buy a ton of aftermarket, paint up your instrument panel an off black (black with a few drops of white) and apply the kits instrument panel decal using a lot of decal softener. The results may surprise you and it will be acceptable. The kits interior will look good built just as it it is. I did replace the seat with an ultracast seat. On mine i did not replace the prop, exhaust or wheels as I felt that on my self it would look acceptable and it does. If you have several of the Airfix kits, build one almost straight from the box and learn to build the kit (find any problem areas etc) and see what you think. Then from there purchase what you really think is necessary. Personally on aftermarket I like all of Baracuda Studios products for this kit. I am not a fan of etched metal instrument panels act. The Eduard resin is also very nice. As mentioned I also like the Ultracast products.
  10. I agree, lots of aggressor schemes but nothing really for the trainers in the orange/white or blue/white schemes are available currently out there. I might suggest however some USMC utility squadrons such as H&MS 33 as found in the Ginter USMC skyhawk books. Several of those have never been done
  11. Very true about the gun. After all the cutting and fitting I decided that the gun issue was one I was going to skip.
  12. Here is my solution. I used parts from the Otaki, Early Tamiya and a first issue Hasegawa F-16A. There is a panel line just forward of the front edge of the windscreen where I cut the Hasegawa fuselage and then mated the Otaki nose to the Hasegawa fuselage. I then assembled the intake trunk and cut 1/4 inch out of the length at the rear edge and mated that to the fuselage. I then puttied and sanded until it was all good. I took the Hasegawa fin and sanded off all the limbs and bumps and used that. I reduced the cord of the wings by taking .060 off the leading edge of the Hasegawa wings, and .080 off the trailing edge. I reduced the span of the wings by about a tenth of an inch off each wing. I used the sub fins from the Otaki kit, the stabs from the Tamiya kit, as well as the nose gear door, pilot tube, wheels and ejection seat. Its not 100% accurate by any means but it looks the part visually. I am still decaling this beast which I call my frankenviper.
  13. Dennis, is the U-2A still available. If so please let me know. Wayne Fowler, apollodcal@gmail.com
  14. To step into the 1/32 Hellcat mess, I have the old Hasegawa F6F. I love the shape and the look of the model feels right. Would I be better to buy a ton of resin to spruce up details or buy a trumpeter kit and use the trumpeter kit as a source of detail parts?
  15. I totally agree with if you are going to do another T-38 sheet, then adding the USN's Bi-centennial aircraft to the decal. Also might I suggest an early T-38 with Day-Glow panels.
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