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aircal62

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  1. Title says it. Time to build another Century series jet. Any boxing - Monogram or Revell. Wayne Fowler - apollodcal@gmail.com
  2. Kursad, as promised earlier, I will send you this week color slides of a 366FBW aircraft (red white candy striped). which I did as a decal 40 years ago for the Heller kit.
  3. I've been watching and reading this thread from the beginning, and the possibility of these decals in 1/144 scale has spurred me to begin building a B-52G early in SIOP scheme. I started by purchasing the old Crown B-52H and then a Revell B-52G kit. The Revell kit is really nice, and I noticed a lot of issues with the old Crown kit which I somehow always thought was a good kit. Now not so much so. I read that the early nose radomes on the B-52G/H were different size wise from the later EVS equipped B-52's. Is that accurate?
  4. Looking to either purchase or trade for Eduard's release of the Hasegawa F-86 - Ultimate Sabre boxing of a couple of years ago. Mostly interested in decals for Mig Mad Marine, and post Korean War Sabres. Willing to trade a new unopened ICM 1/48 OV-10A Bronco kit. Please PM me if interested, Thanks Wayne
  5. Great to see the Shamrocks done. A question on the OV-10 schemes. I take it that the USAF never flew Bronco's with SEA color schemes?
  6. Looking at the potential aircraft on the decal, are the USAF birds no longer included?
  7. I too would love to see the XF-90. I think however I heard somewhere that the molds are in poor shape, with a lot of corrosion and pitting. Aurora used good steel in their molds, hardened to about 75 Rockwell. Age (this tooling is now something like 60+ years old), long term storage and sometimes stored in poor conditions take their toll. I hope that Atlantis is does take a look at this kit and a few others like the original Aurora 1/48 scale F4H-1 with the cut back intakes, flat canopies and small nose.
  8. The Stynelrez primer may also be helpful, should have mentioned that earlier. I just got these myself and I am still learning. They come four sets per package so enough to do four seats.
  9. They hold shape generally, not as well as etch. Some people have suggested heating in hot water (not boiling) to make them more pliable but I have not tried that yet.
  10. I've used them. I like them and I don't at the same time. They take a bit of learning to use, such as cementing one end and then when dry, gently bending and draping over the seat, running some liquid glue to hold. Painting and then applying them I have not tried yet. I like them better than etch metal but not as much as the 3D printed sets. I bought several sets if you are looking for something let me know.
  11. Outstanding decal sheet! If you are printing this one, please reprint the 1/144 general markings sheet also!
  12. I agree with Dutch about the A-4 markings, but might even suggest that the entire Post WW 2 era be revisited. Decals which were done mostly by Microscale back in the 1970's & 80's for this period are mostly gone or new information has shown the markings to be inaccurate. Examples of aircraft to be redone would be USAF F-4's post Viet Nam but before the 1980 change over to grays. 31st FW, 49th FW, 33rd FW and so on. Same for USN and USMC subjects. Did you know that for such a famous A-7 squadron VA-195 Dam Busters, their CAG Full color A-7's have been done over and over again, as have
  13. Personally I'd suggest any of Tamiya 1/48 scale single engine fighter kits, like the P-51. They have fewer parts, fit like a dream and look great if finished using their paints and so on. While I love the Airfix P-51 it is more work to get a finished model out of it, and the Eduard P-51 - lets just say not for someone just getting back into the hobby. I would next recommend most Hasegawa 1/48 single engine fighters. My thinking is to start with something that if you bought the model, followed the suggest build and colors you'd end up with a good looking and successful build and a good exp
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