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Rob Mignard

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About Rob Mignard

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    Canopy Polisher

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  1. Thanks; I didn’t notice that. I think it would still be easier to convert the HB kit to a 27R than try to convert it into a 28PP. Mig
  2. Sorry! 27/28 (not enough brain bytes I guess)
  3. A few moreYak-38PP/Yak-37R differences: The 37R has the same windscreen as the Yak-38P (the HB kit doesn’t work for this configuration either) The 37R has a much smaller nose probe The 37R doesn’t have a window in the EWO’s entry hatch The 37R doesn’t have conformal wing tanks The 37R doesn’t have weapons pylons on the outer wings I may convert my HB kit to a 37R. It wouldn’t be a hard conversion and would certainly be unique. Mig
  4. After a little more research, it appears that the HobbyBoss kit (kind of) depicts a Yak-27R Mangrove! HobbyBoss has captured the angle of incidence on the Yak-27 perfectly. The main external differences appear to be the wing incidence and inlet spikes that do not extend in front of the engine inlets. I'm sure there are other differences, but a cursory look only uncovered these two. The HobbyBoss kit has the spikes of the 28 and the wings of the 27 as far as I can tell. Google Yak-27R Mangrove and you can see lots of photos.
  5. You’re actually describing angle of incidence. I haven’t worked on the HobbyBoss kit so I had not noticed this problem. Thanks for pointing it out. Back to the Bobcat kit I guess.
  6. I agree, the Bobcat Yak-28PP is a bit of a hot mess. Nice interior detail and it appears to be accurate but in my experience, it's a bear to get everything to fit. It has the It has lots of exterior details (intakes, antennas, and such) that are mounted on panel like pieces that require lots of fitting and filling once they're glued on. I stopped about half way through mine because I was getting bogged down trying to get everything looking right for painting. I also have the HobbyBoss kit which I haven't started. If it's like other HobbyBoss kits it will go together well. There is one GLARING error on the HobbyBoss kit. The windscreen on the PP is two ovals that form a streamlined V shape. The HobbyBoss kit has a very goofy-looking single oval that in no way resembles the actual aircraft (Bobcat got this part correct). I don't know how you'd fix that; I don't think anyone has offered a replacement piece. So, you can go for accurate and hard to build or inaccurate and easy to build (or if you've got lots of money, you can buy the Bobcat Kit and steal the windscreen for your HobbyBoss kit). Your choice!
  7. Here are a photo of the main landing gear bay. It's mostly dark gray carbon fiber. Let me know if you need more detail. migflier@aol.com Mig
  8. Curt, give me a call. I'll be happy to help you with this. Rob
  9. Here are a couple of comparison photos of the A and B cowling. Mig
  10. The photo above is a Hind F. Here's photos of a Hind D nose, and tail. You can see that the mast on the D is in line with the fuselage center line; not the cockpit. This was changed as part of the effort to make the Hind more maneuverable. The D model flew like a truck. The vertical fin is cambered to help offload the tail rotor during forward flight (similar to C model Hueys and Cobras). The reason the cockpit is offset is to provide a level platform during flight. Western helicopters accomplish this by tilting the mast and transmission rather than twisting the cockpit. Looks goofy, but works. Mig
  11. Don, I admire you for wanted to do an A model, especially with the Monogram kit!. That's been on my to-do list for some time. The main issue with the Monogram kit is that they used their B model kit and only changed the cowling (and prop, which is terrible). The engines in the A (Wright R-1300) and the B/C/D (Wright R-1820) are exactly the same diameter. The R-1300 is basically a 7 cylinder R-1820. On the actual aircraft, the A model forward fuselage starts to narrow towards the nose (top, bottom, and sides) at the panel line in front of the windscreen. On the B and later models, the top slope is less, and the bottom and sides are pretty much straight to until the curve of the cowling lip. I haven't been able to locate any decent drawings of the A model so I'm working off photos. The Roden kit is a much better starting point than the Monogram/Revell kit. It's 1/48 and the fuselage is not slab sided. Hope this helps. Let me know if I can provide other data for you. Mig
  12. Oliver, the H-34 used a 9 cylinder Wright R1820. I don’t build in 1/32 so I don’t know if a resin engine is available. You could use a Kitty Hawk T-28 engine, but that might be too pricey. I can’t wait to see your finished diorama. Are you doing a Marine or Vietnamese King Bee H-34? Mig
  13. The “walkway” on the left inner leading edge is where the crew chiefs put their ladder for getting onto the top of the airplane. Mig
  14. Yes, it’s a standby wet compass. Mig
  15. I’ve got one I can send you. migflier@aol.com mig
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