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Zaggy

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About Zaggy

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    Glue Required
  1. Zaggy

    The Scale Hornet

    Mine showed today - as well as my copy of the Modern Super Hornet Guide. The Scale Hornet is awesome, but in actuality I was blown away more by the Modern Super Hornet book; very reminicent of the DACO books. So thanks VERY much guys - even with the less than stellar AUD-USD at the moment, I consider both books (plus postage) to be EXTREMELY well priced (bordering on a Bargain, considering what you get). :) So please, keep on issuing stuff like this guys :) Dan
  2. Zaggy

    The Scale Hornet

    The Scale Tomcat? :) Or right out of left field, the Scale He 219A Uhu! D
  3. Zaggy

    The Scale Hornet

    Yeah, my re-re-re-re-attempt (hahahaha) at buying a few hours back went fine - no untrusted/unsecure/certificate errors and a confirmation email :) Dan
  4. Zaggy

    The Scale Hornet

    I've tried to order (as well as the Superhornet book) but the different proxies and systems I go through at Home, Work and Uni all say www.speedhuntergraphics.com is an untrusted/unsecure site... Work won't even let me proceed once the untrusted connection/site has been detected. I tried! Dan
  5. Zaggy

    1/48 YF-23 decals

    @Check Six - yes. Slow progress admittedly (Uni, research, work as well as the siz crushed vertebrae I have flairing up - so walking and sitting for periods has been sucking), but a quick description is: Cockpit - all but sidewalls and some behind the seat cables done. Sils are corrected and thickened, seat is MUCH better, lots of boxes and ECS (that you barely see now :( ) behind the cockpit. Exhausts - Just need the decals for the sides of the exhausts printed and applied Intakes - FINALLY fully shaped and deepened; they're not perfect, but they'll do the job. Top sections have been widened to fit the new shape, bottom sections just need to be taken to with 800grit to smooth the Mr.Surfacer, once I get the Lips thinned a little more. Main remaining Intake Challenge will be the seam line, once the tops are glued on - Tamiya Surfacer and Isopropyl Alcohol be my friend! :) Then need to add half a compressor face... This is the MAIN area of work ATM Main Gear Bays - corrected/lengthened and painted. The Refueling points in front of the Main Gear Mounts 'look' like they're not centred when you test fit the whole bays, so I'm deciding if I should just bump things across a little or just be happy with how they sit now. Next Major Jobs are: Exhaust Troughs - correcting the tiles back to squares (torn between i) re-engraving, ii) etching overlays, or iii) Mixed approach of some re-engraving, some filling and making decal overlays). External - fill the incorrect Weapons Bay doors lines. Re-engrave new doors, engrave some of the bottom panels (Hexagonal TACAN mount panel for example), drill the engine bay drains, drill the fuel dump, etc. Then make all new blade antennae, including the smaller telemetry and etc antennae. Canopy Frame and opening strut - been putting this off as its a really complex shape and the intakes were testing my patience, but it has to be done. I have a plan of attack, that will HOPEFULLY allow me to build it separate from the clear parts, then just slot it in at the end. The opening strut looks very similiar to the FA-18 set up, so shouldnt be a big challenge - assuming my measurements to date (for the rear of the cockpit and the openings I have left) are correct... I'm not at home ATM, but will post some pics later if you'd like? Dan
  6. Zaggy

    1/48 YF-23 decals

    First of all, congrats KursadA - is that a sell-out record for you? As for Ninja's, can be arranged.... ;) Second, I am moving ever closer to actually using these things! Cockpit, Seat, Stuff behind the Seat, ECS, etc, all done. I have decided to properly stretch the MLG Bays the required 3mm to get the main gear struts in the right place and the refueling points to correct scale also, but most of the work has been on the BIG jobs; Engines and Intakes. Engines are all but done, simply requiring a custom decal for the side walls of the 'boxes' then some weathering... Taped into one piece to attempt to show them off, they look like: Alas, the Macro functioin fails to show the 'depth effect' that I like best about the afterburner rings, but does show the corrugations in the box section. New Paddles need to be scratch built too! Intake are a whole other PAINFUL story: It may look chaotic, but there is plenty of method and measure to that madness - hence the longer intake trunks at the side, the exhaust boxes sitting about where they fit and etc; all figured out by pollting where the engine cores and bits will have been, etc... Other pic... Cant wait til these are done... VERY much over them now! Enjoy - because ATM, I'm NOT enjoying this! I just keep looking at the completed parts (which include the soon to be elongated MLG Bays) to stay focused! Dan
  7. Zaggy

    1/48 YF-23 decals

    Congrats mate, so does that mean another printing will need to happen? TMM has one of the bigger readerships in the hobby and as I beleive, places like Hannants and etc, sold out in 24hrs! :) You're going to be famous, getting in first and fastest like that! :) Dan
  8. Zaggy

    1/48 YF-23 decals

    Intakes - OMFG WHAT A NIGHTMARE. Getting really close to putting covers over the inatkes, because getting the insides right will be a mission whatever way we go! There are some Trapizoidal Covers that we see both in-place (I assume when engines were in) and just sitting in the intake trunk (I assume when the engines were out) of PAV-2, sometime after the a/c was recovered from Edwards; they are RED with WHITE diagonals across them and clearly say "Remove Before Engine Run"; which is very different to the standard 'Remove Before Flight' labels on most things. Thus, the question is, are these intake covers applicable to the Jet during the DemVal period? The pictures that I can find of the DemVal period are typically of the jet powered up or being prep'd for flight. ATM, I am still going to attempt to get the intake right (I have removed about 60% of the lower half of it and now its glued in there, I think I've been a bit generous; I can feel some reinforcement of the rear most section and some dremel time drawing nearer (ie, remove the fwd 66% of the total length across one cut, rebuild the intake lining and widen the intake roof to fit. Honestly, the roof of the intake is pretty good; just the way HB have done the trunks (radically undersized, if you try to fix the shape - would have been sweet if I'd left them alone) means the will need to be widened at both edges, before being glued in place. The key will be, now that the rear 1/3rd is FIRMLY in place, keeping everything lined up off that! Why do I do this to myself? Dan
  9. Zaggy

    1/48 YF-23 decals

    Probably - but I've received help and advice and msg's from a number of ppl in here, so I thought I'd just show them what the advice has gotten them... And Hopefully KursadA will get a nice ACCURATE PAV-2 YF-23 to show off his decals on! :) Plus the engines are almost together!
  10. Zaggy

    1/48 YF-23 decals

    When you hold them all together, you DEFINITELY get the 'Big Hole' effect that we do with Modern jets (F-14, F-15, F-16, F-22) - I will post some pics when the box side walls are done and some dry brushing is there, to give the 'hole' some Depth. Rather happy suddenly with these! Hope the Intakes go as well, as with the cockpit (which sort of needs to be finished and fitted to the upper half before I can complete the 'stuff behind the seat'. The Rear-Canpoy Sill and internal Structure is still scaring me a little - its not a friendly shape! :) Slowly becoming less-scared of the intakes... I think because 'I just KNOW' they have to be done...
  11. Zaggy

    1/48 YF-23 decals

    Well, with some more insomnia and a break in the warmer weather (allowing me to get near the etchant tank in my workshop, without cooking!), I have more progress that I decided to take some pictures of before more paint goes on and while other paint dries. Thus, this is wherewe stand with the YF120-GE donks and exhausts: Working from top to bottom, we have the modified kit exhaust boxes, which have corrugated bottoms to them, 400-gritted sides (as they're getting some PE knocked up shortly too and the top of the box has been heavily cut back, so I can fit a more realistic looking paddle - torn between using the kit part (thining it a little and going from there) or building it from scratch to make sure there is room for the actuators and shockwave ramp and etc (not that you'd see the internals of the shockwave ramp, but you can make it out from the exterior of the 'open-backed' paddle, deep in behind the paddle actuator. Macro's are so cruel - tis look so much nicer in 'life scale': Next we have my interface-rings that in hindsight, should have been maybe 25%-33% deeper - as we Australians say "She'll be right, mate!"; and the degree of PAIN that a relatively simple structure such as this, has caused, can not be recounted without resorting to extreme profanity! The Major issue is, the ring only PARTIALLY transitions into a Box and the degree of transition is different on the top than on the bottom. I am unsure as to whether this is a function of the just the way the bits I had on-hand lined up and SEEMED to agree with the images I have OR that the transition should be more even; but as I think I said before, I am sure the CL of the GE does not line up with the diagonal intersections of the exhaust boxes. thus meaning this is the only way this can be done. I've slight over exposed this image to try and assist you seeing the inside of the ring (not easy under black primer on a black base)! And finally (for the moment), with paint still wet, we have the modified GE rear engine face (with the smoothed over front of a CBU stuck in the middle) and th4 out of focus (sorry) PE Afterburner Ring. The final stages will be dry brushes with some gun metal and silver, before the ring goes in with the samre treatment. Once that all looks correct, we'll mate this with the adapter, add some heat discolouration (lighter coloured streaks in the generally black area) move back to our boxed section (which will be mosly silver-ish sides and cream ceramic base) and get that sorted. Then evaluate the Paddles. I also now have a new set of Dremel cutting wheels, so that intake is in a whole world trouble soon :) Enjoy Dan Addendum - And some advice for anyone doing this who does NOT have TWO old F-16's (or an F-15 or F-14B/D's) just laying around that you can scavenege from, I would feel quite confident suggesting something like the Aires F-14B/D engines. Not only do you get better looking 'holes', but you'll also get internal ribs (along which you can cut your adapter ring out of) and the PE you get, could be made to pass, without the hassle of the DIY thing I seem to like doing!...
  12. Zaggy

    1/48 YF-23 decals

    Oh and NOW you go and release F-35A/B sheets, KursadA? You want all my money, don't you! ;) Going to have a look at them now... What I am most looking forward to is the 1/48 F-35C - one of the future projects seems to be evolving into a Jolly Rogers series, with a late VF-84 F-14A, VF-103 CO F-14B in B&W, F-14B CO in Black and Yellow, and FA-18F CO in Black and Yellow and now they've gone BACK to a Black and White CO jet, I think I need another Hase' FA-18F. Please, Please, Please God, dont make me start to work on late VF-84 F-4J's! As for the YF-23 - exhaust corrections continue. Ive made a jig so I can mount and mark out a plastic ring (that will interface the Box to the Cyclindrical parts) and have gotten one side almost done. Etch Masters have been drawn up to create the appropriate afterburner ring (though I was tempted by platic card and wire for a more accurate look - but I think etch will work) and those BUMPS are all but gone! First pass with files and 400 grit looks promising. Did QUITE reach the packed plastic, for those who are following and attempting the same, but a little re-sculpting further up the nacelle and either side of the bump is required to make it blend properly... But only a coat of mr surfacer after the 800 grit and re-scribing will confirm The lack of bump also makes that weird hollow look MUCH better too - not sure what to do with that now; will finish the nacelles and exhausts and intakes first, methinks! Dan
  13. Zaggy

    1/48 YF-23 decals

    Question about the GE YF120 - ENGINE DIAMETER at the front and the back? About the same as the F100-PW and F110-GE????? ANSWERED MY OWN QUESTION after some math and looking at the drawings and masking taking a heap of stuff up - the hardest part will be manufacturing the transition from the Oblong to the Round Afterburner section! Bigger to Smaller and Smaller to Bigger (Box to Circle) externals are quite easy, but this is slightly more complex in that its an INTERNAL and the top and bottom sets of corners have to be set differently.... I like a challenge! :) While I'm slowly working away at the exterior (currently kind of scared to go cutting those intakes back - waiting on some new Cut of Wheels for the dremel as I seem to have run out!) - I'm reworking the 'boxy' section and have lined the bottom of it with some 5-thou corrougations (actually the perfect distance a part and then came from.....the plastic tray from a packet of German Biscuits - Deutschland, Deutschland, ├╝ber alles! Not going to worry about the top as you really wont be able to see it with the nozzle flap relaxed) - next is to 'deepen' the back of the motor, because the kit afterbuner ring is i) the size of an F404 (FA-18) and ii) no where near deep enough. Thus, to pile of broken, busted and never completed I went, finding the two Hase' F-16's (that I did 20 years ago) currently in the process of being gently broken down (need LE and TE flaps, some NOT bulged gear doors, the 'C' style gun port for a Block 15OCU, etc) and gently removed the rear of both F100's, thinking they'd be better than kit! F110's would have been better, but a PE after burner ring can disguise most of the 'PW-ness' Now am I mistaken in the belief that the F119-PW and YF120-GE cores were essentially the same diameters as the F100-PW and F110-GE? The F100 Back-End just looks a little big; I know the engine centreline is NOT aligned with the centre (by diagonal intersection) of the Nozzle Box on the -23 (see pic) Maybe I should just quite the bitching and build? :) Dan
  14. Zaggy

    1/48 YF-23 decals

    Oh and the plan for the intake trunks into cut the 'blank end off' top and bottom, put the main gear bays in (so I know I can clear them), cut the BOTTOM half of the intake channel about 1.0cm short and just fill with plastic card and shape! Once thats done, attach the top half which should be much easier to shape, want to throw the thing across the room (which often happens working on Intake ducts), drizzle thinned 'Mr Surfacer' down the trunks (to sort of fair over most of the scratches and joins, paint the trunks, then fit HALF an F-16 F100 compressor face to each trunk (images show you can only really see about 1/4 of the face anyway from very specific angles)... This is going to take a while... But I MUST finish it... I have an EA-7L that I want to make from a Bargain Hasegawa A-7E I picked up - probably less work that fixing the TA-7C that 'brand that we shall not mention' offer. OK, thats me... Back to be tortured by AMS - ANAL Modeler Syndrome. Dan Addendum - I must admit to also being concerned now as to the fit of the Caracal Boundary Layer - I think it'll work. If not, I'll scan some images of the actuall boundary layer panel and print them up as decals. Much easier to attach than if I chose to Etch them. And I also have some AWESOME North Star FA-18 Wheels for this thing too...
  15. Zaggy

    1/48 YF-23 decals

    Well, since people have started to show finished models (shame the above wasnt finished as PAV-2, considering the GE-donks!), I thought I'd share my on going thoughts and attempts to correct this thing to at least LOOKING right. I HAD to have some time away from this thing, because it was soul-crushing (despite the awesomness of the Caracal decals - without which I think I can honestly say, I would NOT have come back to the kit!) being so awesome in some places and utter RUBBISH in others. Thus, while I set about filling the 'weird buldges' in front of the engine nacelles on the top and having fixed (as best I can) the location of where the main gear bays will go has been sorted (the upper half will still need just a little snading work to make these fit snug), the extra set (redundant and incorrect) of Air Turbine Starter vents have been filled and the intakes have been marked out. Despite the size of the kit (over 45cm long) there is a DAUNTING amount of plastic to go here! See --> The blue tape, in conjunction with datum lines and measurements on the Northrop drawings, transfered to the model, were used to make sure the planform alignment of the intakes is as closely retained as I can get. Its not perfect, but the pruple shaded area represents the MINIMUM to remove, leaving myself about 0.5-1.0mm in places to file down SLOWLY... ;) The next shots illustrate just how WRONG HB got it - note the planform alignment with the leading edge! ...and... Now you'll also see black marker; thats my 'roughing out by eye' colour, showing how far after the kit weapons bay is in relation to wear it should be! The Kit bay looks like its where the EMD F-23 Rear Bay would have gone! The following also shows what else is being mapped out (and the filled 'holes' that should never have been there! These 'Air Turbine Starter Vents' that were filled were actually just panels on the a/c that happened to be the same shape as the Air Turbine Starter Vents, but because of the gear fitted to them, were removed after the fly off. The RIGHT side 'hole' was actually the mounting panel for the IFF Blade, the LEFT hole was a telemetry antennae - obviously these are now WHITE fresh plastic :) The real 'Air Turbine Starter Vents' (size black dots) arent quite in the right place, but moving them would be too much of a hassle - I think... But that leads to other issues; like the ECS Auxiliary Scoop has been nudged rearwards as has the APU Head Exchanger (?) vents. I don't THINK this will be noticeable. The misplace Main gear openings caused the original Drain Vents to the be placed too far outboard, but there now pretty close to where I want them. Just beyond the left edge of the image will be the UHF/TACAN Antennae, which will require some re-engraving as it was set in a distinctive hexagonal panel. There is also supposed to be a C-Band beacon Blade in front of this, that I havent yet looked too hard into and finally behind the TACAN and offset left, that the Fuel Dump will be drilled. The upper half is a bit better with the ECS Exhaust and APU Exhaust panels (deep between the nacelles) actuall present in very nearly the right place. Main hassle with the upper half will be the weird bumps that we've talked about and MAYBE the 'hollows' outboard of them - then we need a new Telemetry Blade on the Right and C-Band Blade on the Left nacelles (that look a lot like ROVER blades); one thing at a time though on each major part. Intakes on the bottom, bumps on the top. To be fair, if I can get the intakes and the 'hollows' looking right, its going to look pretty good - I have yet to lay the wings and tails out against the Northrop Drawings, but the plaform sits quite well within the outline. Nose could be better, but If all this runs smooth, I am thinking I could actually enjoy this... It wont be the perfect outline, but unless Zacto releases his AMAZING 1:32 kit, I kind of want the best looking YF-23 I can build. Dan
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