FrankC

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About FrankC

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    Just build the dammn thing!

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    Scale modeling<br />Drinking brews with my good friends<br />Watching football<br />Comptuer programing
  1. I am having a problem with an order for Sprue Bros (first time) but I really need to contact them asap. Apparently they are shipping my order to the wrong address (WAAAY wrong!) even though the email invoice has the right address. I'm trying to contact them by all I can find is the email address. I have sent email - but no response yet and I need to contact them soon (the tracking number indicates the package is being delivered today in VA - not CO). Anyone know their direct number???
  2. wow - that's really close for me! I'll be there for sure! Frank
  3. if you haven't glued it yet - I wouldn't use filler.. Trace the curve of the windshield on something like soda can aluminium. Then build up the kits fuselage with styrene strips and tamiya cement until that gap is gone. You can do this pretty quickly and won't ruin the plastic. Excessive amounts of bondo degas and it can melt the surrounding plastic. It's fairly easy to trim styrene once the glue drys. Will take a little time but much safer and certain to give good results! --Frank (old hand and fixing gaps)
  4. I looked at one - looks nice. But I think a better approach would be to get a few items that will improve the overall detail as the kits pit is really good. Typically aires sets are a chore to fit! I don't mind doing the work if it makes sense but for this kit, it might not make sense. Barracuda sells detail sets that are quite reasonable where you add a lot of detail and not spend $45 for the aires set. IMHO the stencil decals that Barracuda sells will add a lot more detail than anything in the aires set. They sell a seat, new throttles and gunsights - really nice stuff and very affordable. Look at the sets look at builds people are doing and decide for yourself. Wolf Buddee is building this kit over on HS and he has posted shows of hte kits pit with some of this Barracuda resin - looks fantastic. I would check that out then decide - but if you go with the aires set you probably can't go wrong. Their stuff is nice - it's just hard to install and usually quite pricy. Frank
  5. I have the Resin wheel set for the Trumpter kit - you could possibly fit it if you really wanted - but you will have to split the wells (right down the center - which isn't easy - I did this so they would fit into my dragon kit.. used one of the razor blade saws that John Vojotech sells). I don't feel like cutting up and dry fitting my tamiya kit to see if it's an easy fit -but just looking at the parts and doing some fitting on the main wing (through the plastic) it looks like it would work. However attaching the gear will be more difficult and will require some surgery to get it to work with the resin part. I'm not actually afraid of the pin holes on this one. I think they will be easy to deal with except for that wall that the inner doors hook to. I'll either scratchbuild that or close the inner doors. I don't think resin is really "required" for this one - but that is just an opinion. If you are thinking resin is your first choice, I would wait for a set that's fitted to this kit. I do think the Aires set for the Trumpter kit will work - but you will have to do a lot of work to get it in there - so what's the point? As to resin CMK would be my first hope because they make good sets that aren't ridiculously expensive. Anyway - good luck on the new stang - and don't fear the pin holes on this one - for the most part they will be easy to deal with. Frank
  6. Building a model of a plane with three bags of gas - kit only comes with two. I need an other tank if anyone has an extra they can spare Thanks Frank
  7. I don't think that's the issue - the issue is the poster is asking about how bad the ejector holes in the kit are and is pondering using the AM set for the tumpter kit. He was told by a few guys there aren't any and the claims are exaggerated - this is false. There are a lot of them and it's going to require some simple filling on the main well parts (roof, spar, and ribs) Probably 30 to 40 on those parts alone. Mind you not - difficult to fill pin marks but yea, you will be doing some work OTB. The ones you can't fill easily are on the walls that separate the wells (that the inner doors attach to). This part has several that are going to be hard if not impossible to fill without damaging some really nice detail. I don't think anyone expressed or feels Tamiya screwed up. I do think that a few of us builders were concerned based on past experience with Tamiya kits - the zero, and F-117 have horrendous pin marks in the wells and bays that are very difficult to fill. These concerns panned out - the P-51 bays has some of those pesky pin marks that were in the zero and F-117. But only those two part (that I can tell - maybe there are more -but I don't think so). This isn't a fatal flaw and no one is saying the kit is bad, or tamiya screwed up. Anyone who has the kit can look and see them, I'm not exaggerating. They are there and they will need to be fixed if you are into that kind of thing (I am).
  8. I got my kit last week and have been looking it over closely. In a way I disagree with what is being said - there are significant numbers of pin marks! But the good news is that the way the kit is designed most of ones that will be visible are fairly easy to fix, but make no mistake, there will be some to fix. Don't believe the anti-hype! However not so easy - the ones on the wall that separates the bays are pretty frigging bad and will be impossible to fill without damaging the exquisite detail (the wall part attached to the inner gear door parts)! Also, OOB the only option you are given is to have the inner gear 100% down if the mains are retracted. This is certainly an acceptable but it makes the inner wall (and it's pinholes) very visible. If you build it to have the stand workable (switching the doors and removing the landing gear) you will have to build the inner doors as Tamiya has given us and you wont' be able to do any plumbing or wiring where there is tons of that in the well and the pinholes will be very noticeable. If you make the doors partially open (like some will want to do - also acceptable) you will have to cut apart the kits doors which might complicate the ability to be able to swap the gears in and out to display it with the gear retracted. Not a biggie- but something to note. But the gear wells appear to look pretty nice oob. Not as nicely detailed as the aires set for the Dragon kit but overall it might not matter. I wouldn't worry too much about adding resin wells, I don't think this kit needs it. But it could use some wires for simulating the hydraulic lines very visible in the well. As far as the pin holes in the inner wall -I'll probably close my inner doors thus making that a non- issue! Regards, Frank
  9. Remember the guy who was always bitching about real working landing gears on 1/72 C5? I remember the kid - I think he ripped a bunch of people off by promising to trade various tamiya uber kits for relatively cheap ones. I remember he tried to get me to trade a Tamiya T-72 for his Tamiya tomcat and an F-4! I didn't bite - a lot of guys did and got burned. Or that AZhozers character who built a diorama of dog poop and took it to the nats.. There was also plenty of good guys - Bill Woodier - really liked him.
  10. that makes sense - I found this out by accident. That's part of my problem with pollyscale/vallejo though -I don't like mixing up paint and waiting a long time before using it.
  11. I just use flow aid because that's what I have. I also have something that is an gel form - I can't remember what it's called. But I found out after getting it that is supposedly designed for mizing with tube paint - doh! Flow aid works - but don't use too much because it will cause the paint to develop a strange white haze to it which is very noticable the darker the paint is.
  12. I also agree mm acryl is terrible. I used it once and never bought another bottle. While thier paint sucks, I have found that paints like vallejo and pollyscale thin really well with testors acrylic thinner ironically. I stocked up on that stuff using hobby lobby 1/2 off coupons. I use that and a drop of generic flow retarder (also from hobby lobby). I typically thin about 50% to 80% for tranlucent coats and 20 % or so for base coats (except lighter colors like white, yellow or red which I put on as thick as I can) If you let it sit in the bottle for a few days - it will lay down pretty nicely and won't clog the brush as much. I'm not sure why letting it sit helps, but in my experience it does FWIW. Frank
  13. I use tamiya lacquer thinner to thin exclusively. I have heard you can use automotive painting lacquer - but I don't know where to get that so I'm stuck with the super expensive tamiya stuff... Gunze thinner seems to be some sort of lacquer and will also work just fine. But yea I wouldn't thin it with hardware store lacquer thinner (should have made that clear). However, I do use the cheap thinner to clean my brush out with. It's fine for that. I have recently gotten some mr color "leveling thinner" I hear it works really well- I'll have to see. It also smells like some sort of lacquer thinner - I guess it also has some sort of retardant in it? I don't know - but if it works - cool. Regards, Frank
  14. I think that is some tempting evidence! Note the stripped invasion stripes. That's a a neat picture. It's not conclusive though. I don't think you can look at that wing and "know" it's NMF. But you also can't look at it and completely discount that it's NMF either. But when you take into account other things maybe it becomes even more possible? You of course know about "old crow" and it's transformation from Green/Grey to NMF by the crew stripping it overnight? All the postings so far indicate the wing was painted with aluminum lacquer . Not some super urthane finish that was strip resistant! I think the old crow shows that at least some planes did have paint stripped off them and left them with essentially NMF wings. But they probably are stained with traces of the original finish somewhat just like that photo you posted! That's a cool photo and I think that could be NMF Frank
  15. Really sorry to hear that Chuck.. That sucks Regards, Frank