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I can't recall if it was Wylam, Matt or Nye, but one of those gents did a set of drawings for the Flyer. I'll check my references when I get home to see who did them. Unless I'm mistaken I may even have them.

Cheers

Mike

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Is that old Monogram 1/40ish scale Wright Flyer as bad as I fear? I have seen it advertised as 1/48 scale also. I imagine this is not correct and it just a new release of the old kit. It's a pity that one of the big kit manufacturers have not done this plane the justice it deserves.

Ed

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im looking to scratch build a wright flyer, anyone know where i can find drawings of it?

The Smithsonian prepared drawings during their 1985 restoration. They offer a general arrangement drawing, and component drawings of the entire aircraft.

http://www.nasm.si.edu/Research/arch/colle...raw/wrights.cfm

I've got the 50-drawing set, and you could literally build a 1:1 Flyer from them.

Peter

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The Revell kit is 1/39 and makes a nice one ... Probably the only glaring problems are the strut holders in the wing, but that can be fixed if you want ... The nice part is the predrilled rigging holes which allows even new modelers to have a copy of this most famous airplane, yet I have seen many at various shows and contests, all showing that with a little basic modeling this oldie kit can be a goodie ...

There are two "museum class" kits in 1/16 scale -- Hasegawa & Model Airways, I have both. I started the Hasegawa, but quit because there were too many detail errors -- landing skids wrong profile, stab & rudder structure wrong, etc. I haven't started the Model Airways kit, but it appears to be the better of the two ...

I do not believe, from what I have read, that the Wylam plans are accurate -- I haven't checked myself. Effectively all is conjecture as the Wrights left no drawings and the original was heavily damaged by a flood.

The NASM drawing ref'd above probably reflect what they have on display and would be adequate. I think any plans from the guys (forgot the names) who tried to build/fly the replica for the Centennial are a tad more accurate they did a lot of extra research; I do not know if their work is publically available. I had the opportunity to visit with them during testing and discussed several differences I spotted, the most obvious being the rudder covering (on the outside of the NASM, inside of the replica) and when I got back to my stash of refs, sure enough the pictures all seem to indicate the rudder is covered on the inside.

Not that I am an expert .... I'm going to order that print set, thanks for the link !!

John

Edited by jRatz
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OK I have drawings by both Wylam and Paul Matt. As John stated, I would be more wary of Wylam's and more confident with Matt's, as he tended to research his subjects more than most. Also as John said, there are no "factory" drawings left of the Flyer, so anyone's are best-guess conjecture at best. If you would like reduced scans to compare I can send you some. The Matt drawings are still available in "Paul Matt Scale Airplane Drawings Volume II". You should be able to find a copy on ePray or other source. You can also try here for full sized roll drawings of the ones in the book.

HTH

Cheers

Mike

Edited by Skyking
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Several years ago, FSM did an article on accurizing the old Monogram kit (and yes the current one is a repop). Quite a bit of work was involved, but the results were outstanding. IIRC at one time Model Expo had a multimedia kit of the the Flyer (something like 1/16 scale) which looked very nice in the ads but the price would induce sticker shock (think it was something in the neighborhood of $700).

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Several years ago, FSM did an article on accurizing the old Monogram kit (and yes the current one is a repop). Quite a bit of work was involved, but the results were outstanding. IIRC at one time Model Expo had a multimedia kit of the the Flyer (something like 1/16 scale) which looked very nice in the ads but the price would induce sticker shock (think it was something in the neighborhood of $700).

Model Expo sells the Model Airways 1/16 version I mentioned above. It is currently selling for $179 on Model Expo (& that may cheaper than when I bought it several years ago :>( .

I forgot about the FSM article, the Revell (ne Monogram) kit is definitely one that responds well to some good modeling techniques.

John

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  • 2 weeks later...
Quite possibly, they have about 40% off sale right now -- I picked up a few of the Civil War artillery items ...

John

Has anyone built the Model Expo kit? I've Googled around, but haven't found any reviews or builds. For $90 it's extremely tempting. I had the Hasegawa kit for years, but it just wasn't detailed enough or accurate enough for me.

Peter

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Has anyone built the Model Expo kit? I've Googled around, but haven't found any reviews or builds. For $90 it's extremely tempting. I had the Hasegawa kit for years, but it just wasn't detailed enough or accurate enough for me.

Peter

It's sitting in my stash ... one of these days.

That said, I started the Hasegawa kit and became dissatisfied. When I got the Model Airways kit, I could see that it resolved most of my issues and I decided it would be the better kit ... IMHO ...

John

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It's sitting in my stash ... one of these days.

That said, I started the Hasegawa kit and became dissatisfied. When I got the Model Airways kit, I could see that it resolved most of my issues and I decided it would be the better kit ... IMHO ...

John

Thanks for the info. I've gone ahead and ordered it from Model Expo. :D They still say "expected 10/30/08". Use Offer Code W358 when you order, and it'll be $5 off. Hey, every little bit helps!

Do you still have the Hasegawa kit? As I recall, it had an excellent skinning diagram. As neat as the exposed structure looks, I'm planning to cover it. I'd be happy to reimburse you for copying and sending the covering information.

Peter

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Thanks for the info. I've gone ahead and ordered it from Model Expo. :huh: They still say "expected 10/30/08". Use Offer Code W358 when you order, and it'll be $5 off. Hey, every little bit helps!

Do you still have the Hasegawa kit? As I recall, it had an excellent skinning diagram. As neat as the exposed structure looks, I'm planning to cover it. I'd be happy to reimburse you for copying and sending the covering information.

Peter

Peter,

Yes I do, but it is buried and it will be several days before I can think about digging it out. I considered using the Hasegawa covering on my Model Expo kit also, but if IIRC, I didn't think Hasegawa did a good job representing the cut pattern or the French stitching, but then again I may not remember correctly ...

I'll dig it up and get back to you here ...

John

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Peter,

Yes I do, but it is buried and it will be several days before I can think about digging it out. I considered using the Hasegawa covering on my Model Expo kit also, but if IIRC, I didn't think Hasegawa did a good job representing the cut pattern or the French stitching, but then again I may not remember correctly ...

I'll dig it up and get back to you here ...

John

Thanks, John. There's no hurry, of course. The kit is still showing backordered, so apparently it didn't arrive yesterday like they thought.

It's been a long time since I had the Hasegawa kit, so I'm not 100% certain about the skinning instructions. I recall some very good diagrams and explanations, but they could have come from other references. Time to go dig through my Flyer stuff.

Peter

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Peter,

I regret to tell you it as I remembered.

There is a one page "Skinning Method" which in summary says:

-- cut paper as specified (mm): 2 ea A: 80 x 250, 2 ea B: 36 x 150, 4 ea C: 150 x 859.

-- make 2 diff glues A (1 part white glue, 1 part water) and B (1 white glue, 4 water).

-- apply A about 3 times all over surface and let dry.

-- lay paper on surface and apply glue B all over and let dry.

-- after dry trim excess leaving about 2mm overhang

-- fold around edges, etc, use glue A to fix down.

Paper cuts: A is for top only of each stab, B is for outside only of each rudder (see note below), a C is for wings top & bottom. For each wing, put bottom cover on first, then top.

Rudder: The kit and most of the world puts cover on outside only of the 2 rudders. The guys who did the replicas believe the inside only was covered and I tend to agree after studying photos. It does appear that you can see the center bar of the rudder framework more clearly on the outside than on the inside. Who knows, none of us were there ?

And as I remembered, these are just large sheets - the sewn-together pattern of the original is not replicated.

Not much to send you -- I can make a couple scans and send to you if you'll PM me your email address.

John

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