Dave Hill Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 Hi Guys, I'll be modeling Lt.Col Glenn Eagleston's "Feeble Eagle"...I like this particular aircraft for the "bare bones" look of it's markings and because this will be my first attempt at adding rivet detail and I wanted as much bare metal showing as possible. I'll be using: Tamiya's 1/48 P-51D kit/Black Majic canopy masks (won on evil-bay!) Eduard P-51D p/e detail set Quickboost exhaust/shroud Vector resin wheelbays Superscale Decal's # 48-914 P-51D Mustang Aces, ETO Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dirkpitt289 Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 Nice, I look forward to seeing the progress Quote Link to post Share on other sites
josipww2 Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 nice,I will carefully monitor this project.Will you use alclad metalizere? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Hill Posted July 10, 2011 Author Share Posted July 10, 2011 Will you use alclad metalizere? No...this will be my first attempt at a NMF and the Alclad system may be a little over my head right now so I'll be useing Model Master Chrome silver enamel. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Hill Posted July 10, 2011 Author Share Posted July 10, 2011 Hi Guys, Well, time to get started! I started with the wings as they will be the most work...I will be modifying the wing parts to accept the Vector wheelbays...filling in the panel lines and reworking the gun ports to receive brass tubing gun barrels. I started by removing all the molded on wheelbay details with a saw. Then I used my Dremel tool to remove material from the parts per the Vector instructions. After 2hrs of repeated grinding and test fitting...the resin wheelbays fit perfectly inside the wings. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JasonW Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 Looking pretty good so far. What type of Dremel are you using and what RPM setting? I've got a Dremel MultiPro that I'm still trying to find the sweet spot on. I've melted a bit of a part or two along the way. :) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Hill Posted July 11, 2011 Author Share Posted July 11, 2011 Hi Jason, It's a 30yr old Dremel 380...the numbers on the speed selector dial are so worn I have no idea what RPM it was running at...I had it set at the lowest speed setting on the dial. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JasonW Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 Hi Jason, It's a 30yr old Dremel 380...the numbers on the speed selector dial are so worn I have no idea what RPM it was running at...I had it set at the lowest speed setting on the dial. Dave Thanks for that info Dave. I've been using the second or third from the lowest setting. Maybe I'll try the absolute lowest setting and see how that works for me.Kit is looking great so far, can' wait to see her finished. I've always liked these markings with that big eagle on the nose. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mclents Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 (edited) No...this will be my first attempt at a NMF and the Alclad system may be a little over my head right now so I'll be useing Model Master Chrome silver enamel. Dave Dave, I don't want to talk you outta anything, but the Alclad system couldn't be easier, really. The key is a good primer coat. First, that will show any blemishes that may be present. Now I know there's always a lot of talk about which undercoat to use, but frankly, I've found the Tamiya light grey primer right from the can to be perfect. A light rub down makes the Alclad go on like glass. And the toughness facilitates any type of masking you may need or want. The shot is of the masking so I could do some slightly different color panels. Lots of tape as you can see and no pullup anywhere. and the slightly diverse panels after a different shade of Alclad and tape removed And from experience, the MM crome silver will not hold up under even the lightest tack tape. It'll pull right up. Don't be afraid of of the Alclad, it's great stuff and easy to usewith the right primer. McLents Edited July 11, 2011 by mclents Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HOLMES Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 Dave I am looking forward to this build as this is one of MY all time favorite birds ! You have started very neatly and best of luck with it. Keep us updated Thank you HOLMES Quote Link to post Share on other sites
josipww2 Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 Dave, I don't want to talk you outta anything, but the Alclad system couldn't be easier, really. The key is a good primer coat. First, that will show any blemishes that may be present. Now I know there's always a lot of talk about which undercoat to use, but frankly, I've found the Tamiya light grey primer right from the can to be perfect. A light rub down makes the Alclad go on like glass. And the toughness facilitates any type of masking you may need or want. The shot is of the masking so I could do some slightly different color panels. Lots of tape as you can see and no pullup anywhere. and the slightly diverse panels after a different shade of Alclad and tape removed And from experience, the MM crome silver will not hold up under even the lightest tack tape. It'll pull right up. Don't be afraid of of the Alclad, it's great stuff and easy to usewith the right primer. McLents oo nice,Did you use aluminum and duraluminium or other metalizers? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mclents Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 oo nice,Did you use aluminum and duraluminium or other metalizers? Yes, I think that was the only two I used. They are really pretty low contrast to one another so it doesn't give that too patch work looking appearance. Great, tough stuff that Alclad. I don't want to highjack the thread, so I'll go picture-less here, but that was just the fist set of taping. The plane ended up being "The Blond Angel" so ended up with painted on full invasion stripes. The only place I had the slighest issue was some touch up I tried to do to the Futured canopy. The future did not allow the Alclad to "bite" into the plastic, so a minor touch up to the frame that required a small piece of tape did lift the Alclad from the Future-d surface of the canopy. And no undercoats or sealers for thwe decal work either. I think the stuff works great (and no, I have no connection to the product). McLents Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Hill Posted July 16, 2011 Author Share Posted July 16, 2011 Continuing with the wing work, I modified the gun ports by simply drilling them out starting with a #80 drill bit and using progressively larger bits until I got the size I need for the brass tubing...I will be using 1.2mm for the gun sleeves and 0.8mm for the gun barrels. Next came modifying and detailing the wing pylons and drop tanks. The pylon stabilizing brackets were made from 0.20" plastic rod and the molded on brackets were removed from the tanks. After sanding the tanks smooth I used 0.10" plastic rod to make the fuel plumbing lines. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dirkpitt289 Posted July 16, 2011 Share Posted July 16, 2011 WOW, that is some excellent work on the tanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Hill Posted July 26, 2011 Author Share Posted July 26, 2011 I finally finnished up the wing portion of this build by filling in the panel lines with stretched sprue and wet sanding them smooth...next I painted up the Vector wheelbays gave them a greasy black wash and installed them for the last time...finally I added the brass tubing sleeves for the guns. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Liberator24 Posted July 26, 2011 Share Posted July 26, 2011 ALCLAD,ALCLAD!!!! You start, you will never stop! So far them tanks have made me speechless......wow! Keep it up!! -Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ThatJeffGuy Posted July 26, 2011 Share Posted July 26, 2011 Nice job! Tank plumbing is inspirational Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Hill Posted July 31, 2011 Author Share Posted July 31, 2011 With the wings out of the way it was time for the pit area...I started by removing all molded-on detail that will be replaced with p/e parts and place cards. I modified the seat by adding p/e braces and armor plate then used a styrene disc to make a new head rest...the kit IP was sanded smooth to accept a p/e "sandwich" that makes up an awesome new panel...finally the p/e rudder peddles were installed. Next came the sidewalls and fuselage detail. I removed most of the kit details in favor of p/e place cards and some plasticard pieces. I made the oxygen hose from fine copper wire coiled around a piece of 0.20" brass rod. Lastly I ground down the fuselage wall thickness and drilled out the holes in the front cowling vent panels. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bigasshammm Posted August 1, 2011 Share Posted August 1, 2011 Stunning work. Will be a beauty for sure. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Hill Posted August 7, 2011 Author Share Posted August 7, 2011 The pit and fusalage sides are done...after all the components were assembled I gave it some drybrush weathering and shot everything but the IP with coat of Dullcote. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JasonW Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 Cockpit looks top notch Dave. Really like the work you did on those wing tanks with the plumbing etc. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HOLMES Posted August 19, 2011 Share Posted August 19, 2011 Dave the cockpit work is extremely NEAT AND SO VERY GOOD. Keep up the good work, Look forward to the end .. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Hill Posted August 21, 2011 Author Share Posted August 21, 2011 Well I got the pit sandwiched between the fuselage halves now...I cut off the locating pins and sanded the glue surfaces true on a piece of glass with 600 grit sandpaper. I must say the fit of the two halves were perfect. I did need a little Mr. Surfacer on the belly scoop to smooth things out and a few places where the parts attached to the sprue. I bought the kit on ebay and the original owner twisted and ripped the parts of the sprue tearing the plastic. The finished pit Now the fun begins...adding rivet detail!...this was a first for me but allot of practice on junk models made me confident I could do it. I used Radu Brinzan's Rivet-R mini riveting tool guided by thin strips of vinyl tape for curved surfaces and Dymo tape for the strait runs. The Rivet-R tool produces very fine holes that look convincing at 1/48 scale. I had make up a little jig to rivet the hard to hold canopy frame. After all the rivet work was done it was time to add the wings and here is were the fun stopped!!!...the Vector wheel bay that fit so nice in the wings interfered with the fit between the fuselage and wings...alot of sanding, grinding and clamps were required to join the two assemblies resulting in a wing join that needed filling using stretched sprue and Mr. Surfacer...a sad note to a join that without the resin wheel bay was virtually perfect. As she sits now. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bigasshammm Posted August 21, 2011 Share Posted August 21, 2011 Sick just sick. That's your first time riveting? wow Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Hill Posted August 22, 2011 Author Share Posted August 22, 2011 Thanks!!!...I put alot of miles on that Rivet-R tool practicing...still had a couple of ...and some of the rivet lines aren't the straitest but I'm happy with the results. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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