Salt Weathering - soft weathered look

[koli99]

I've just come to realise that I posted in Archived section, so I'm reposting in active forum.

I've been also intrigued to use this technique on F4U-4 - looking for soft weathered look - not chipping paint. I've been using Vallejo acrylics so hopefully will be ok. I've got a couple of questions and really hope to be answered.

First, steps of technique (just write OK if it's OK:))

1.) Primer

2.) All blue navy scheme

3.) Future

4.) Panel line wash

5.) Future

6.) Water mist

7.) Hard grinded kitchen salt

8.) Let it dry and than another coat of blue navy scheme

9.) Rinse under warm water

10.) Future

11.) Decals

12.) Future

13.) Pastels, smoke,...

So here comes the questions:

A.) At what point should I apply decals? Before salt watering or after? If doing it before, woudn't I cover them with paint after second coat of blue navy scheme? Or you just spray carefully over crystals and not the whole model?

B.) Should I lighten the navy blue at stage number 2.) or number 8.)? Is the second coat of paint thinned?

Thanks for anyone who's able to give me some answers.

Greetings from Slovenia!

[denstore]

Decals after the salt weathering. You might need to weather the decals to make them match the surrounding surfaces, though.

The lighter colour is usually the later, but it depends on what you want to depict. If you are doing something like a black object, and you would like the "patches" to appear lighter, the darker should be the second coat.

[koli99]

Thanks for the quick reply!

I'm doing FS.15042 so that means, it's wiser to lighten it after. What about the consistency of second coat? Is it the same as first coat or thinned?

How do you weather the decals to match soft weather look? Do not want to chip them out, just slightly blur.

[denstore]

I have no knowledge on FS-colours, so someone else need to help you there. You might try to make the second coat thinner, to soften the effect.

The times I have needed to weather decals, I usually try to mix clear coat with only a few drops of the same colour as the last layer. A bit like the Tamiya smoke, but with paint instead. Then spray it on over the decals very, very thin. It's only supposed to tone it down, and blend it in a bit.

[koli99]

Thanks for all the help. Much appreciated!

Will post pics after the model is done.

[RockRiver]

I have not yet tried this method, but if Vallejo Acrylics can be thinned with water, this

might cause a problem when you wash off the salt.

Just a thought - may be someone has experience.

I.

[koli99]

Yes, I know it could represent a problem. So any input on someone who has done this kind of procedure with acrylics (water based) would be much appreciated.

I'm thinking if I let the second coat cure enought time (to be completely dry), water wouldn't damage paint? Or is this just an empty wish?

[denstore]

If the first layer is completely cured, I can't see any real problem.

[scapilot]

On a note regarding lighter or darker shades of blue, you can essentially save yourself some time by just adding some white to your base coat so that it goes on lighter, and then shooting the color straight from the bottle on the second pass..focusing mostly on and around panel lines. The effect in this is that when you're done, your faded center panel highlights are already knocked out. For even further enhanced effects, you can even go as far as adding a little dark (not sure how much darker you can get the color you're going for, as I imagine it's pretty stark as is) and do even finer lines around the panel lines for a third dimensional effect. Just be careful not to lighten or darken too much as this can come out a bit harsh if overdone. It's essentially reversed pre-shading. I'll do this sometimes if I don't have a wild and crazy paint scheme simply because it's faster than pre shading...painting, and post shading, and with the subtle variations, you don't have to be nearly as neat, and the outcome has always been pretty decent.

[Neo]

If your using Acrylic i sugest a laquer or Enamel base clear cloat. the reason is that is you goof up what you will use to remove you weathering will also take off the future. if you use enamel you wont have that issue

[koli99]

On a note regarding lighter or darker shades of blue, you can essentially save yourself some time by just adding some white to your base coat so that it goes on lighter, and then shooting the color straight from the bottle on the second pass..focusing mostly on and around panel lines. The effect in this is that when you're done, your faded center panel highlights are already knocked out. For even further enhanced effects, you can even go as far as adding a little dark (not sure how much darker you can get the color you're going for, as I imagine it's pretty stark as is) and do even finer lines around the panel lines for a third dimensional effect. Just be careful not to lighten or darken too much as this can come out a bit harsh if overdone. It's essentially reversed pre-shading. I'll do this sometimes if I don't have a wild and crazy paint scheme simply because it's faster than pre shading...painting, and post shading, and with the subtle variations, you don't have to be nearly as neat, and the outcome has always been pretty decent.

Thanks for the tips! The second and third coat (panel lines) you are explaining, are over crystals of salt?

[Don923]

since you are are using water base paint blow alittle extra paint on an old wing from a crashed model, experiment with the salt there add a decal as you posted above add salt both before and after , see what effects you get.

While you are at it place some clorox on a Q-tip or brush and apply it to the sample wing see if you like the bleach effect you will get

Don923 (FlyLo)

[koli99]

since you are are using water base paint blow alittle extra paint on an old wing from a crashed model, experiment with the salt there add a decal as you posted above add salt both before and after , see what effects you get.

While you are at it place some clorox on a Q-tip or brush and apply it to the sample wing see if you like the bleach effect you will get

Don923 (FlyLo)

Is this what you meant with ColorX? Have you got any pictures or link on what this effect does?

[Don923]

Yes that clorox is what I was speaking of, sorry no pictures I had lots of several aircraft I did this with but I never could recover my files when my hard drive went bad.

Now I am working with enamals again and it's hard to get a good results with enamals.

Try on an old piece of plastic wing when painting your model, then take a paint brush and make a couple of streaks across what you painted, place in sunlight and form an opinion yourself.

Don923(flylo)

[koli99]

I'm experimenting on an unused parts from previous models and not getting desired effect. I sprayed destilled water and added grinded salt (grinded over model). When it dried, I sprayed thin layer of second coat. I'm looking for salt residues (circle of salt residue), so I will try spraying salt water and letting it dry, and then next coat of paint...

[B_Realistic]

I don't like the salt technique very much.

I prefer the hairspray technique which is much more controllable and realistic.

[arnobiz]

I've done it twice and was pretty happy with the results. I use acrylics and I do

1/ camo

2/ decals

3/ couple of layers of Future

4/ Salt technique with enamel (MM) paint (see below why)

5/ varnish to the desired effect

Note the Future layers to protect the acrylic paint and decals before the salt is applied. Also, Future is insensitive to white spirit: if I'm not happy with the weathering I can wash it off easily with some cotton dipped in White spirit and start again step 4. This would not be possible with acrylics as far as I know.

Good luck,

Arnaud

[koli99]

I don't like the salt technique very much.

I prefer the hairspray technique which is much more controllable and realistic.

Yes, but hairspray technique is used for chipping paint off, and I'm looking for sun and ocean weathering style. Or it can be used in this way that I don't know?

[zark]

Hi koli99. I am using the "salt" technic for some years now and I am happy with the end results. Right now I am "busy" with a Greek F-5, derelict, part of a diorama. Here is a picture of it. Take notice of the wing, where I used several layers of "salt" and many different shades of blue to achieve that. The fuselage chipping was much simpler.

[koli99]

This is exactly what I'm looking for. Could you explain it a little better how did you achive this look? I see that you placed decals before salt technique. How did you manage to just slightly cover them, and not completly with top coat?

Edited January 25, 2013 by koli99

[zark]

The procedure is simple for me. I use Gunze paints, so I don't know if it works for other brands. First I sprayed the dark blue - add salt - spray light blue - add salt - spray an "intermediate" blue. With a brush dipped in water and dried from the excess water, I slowly removed the salt...thats all from me. One BIG POINT though!...add a tiny drop of...washing up liquid that releases the tension from the water drops just before you add the salt. I hope my "input" was worth the effort!

Edited January 25, 2013 by zark

[koli99]

Great. Just a quick response regarding decals? At which stage did you apply them?

[zark]

Sorry about that...I forgot to mention that I havn't apply any yet, the black lines are painted.