ex-USMC_Hornet_WSO Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 Never done an oil wash on a model. Can anyone recommend a good oil wash brand? I heard about something called Turpenoid. Am I going to need that as well? Thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Möbius 1 Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 Well, promodeller washes are pretty good. Here is a link to a build using it http://www.florymodels.co.uk/su-27-flanker/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Triarius Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 I use artist's oils and odorless mineral spirits with a drop or two of boiled linseed oil. If you watch for sales, you can get a lifetime supply of artists oils for significantly less than the hobby industry companies sell the tiny amounts of the same thing. Note that it has to be boiled linseed oil, not the raw stuff. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Möbius 1 Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 I use artist's oils and odorless mineral spirits with a drop or two of boiled linseed oil. If you watch for sales, you can get a lifetime supply of artists oils for significantly less than the hobby industry companies sell the tiny amounts of the same thing. Note that it has to be boiled linseed oil, not the raw stuff. I also have artist oil paints. Do you use Winsor and Newton? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Triarius Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 Yes, I have some of those. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
A-10 LOADER Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 Get the Flory washes, you won't be dissappointed. They are super easy to use with great results. Here is my LANTIRN pod after a Flory wash (Dark Dirt). Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Möbius 1 Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 Never done an oil wash on a model. Can anyone recommend a good oil wash brand? I heard about something called Turpenoid. Am I going to need that as well? Thanks! From promodeller, you might want to use "Dark Dirt". From Winsor and newton, i advise burnt sienna or raw umber Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thegoodsgt Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 I use Winsor & Newton oils with their Turpenoid to thin it. A tube will literally last a lifetime. Steven Brown Scale Model Soup Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NavyPhantoms Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 I have a tube of burnt sienna that I got when I was 23. That was almost 19 years ago. The stuff lasts forever. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ex-USMC_Hornet_WSO Posted January 16, 2014 Author Share Posted January 16, 2014 I use Winsor & Newton oils with their Turpenoid to thin it. A tube will literally last a lifetime. Steven Brown Scale Model Soup Are there any advantages to using oils vs Promodeller washes? Thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ex-USMC_Hornet_WSO Posted January 16, 2014 Author Share Posted January 16, 2014 Well, promodeller washes are pretty good. Here is a link to a build using it http://www.florymodels.co.uk/su-27-flanker/ What are the advantages of Promodeller washes over oils? Thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Möbius 1 Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 Flory models (promodeler) is already pre thinned for airbrushing and also weathers the aircraft. Oil washes require more time and need to be thinned specifically with enamel thinner or turpenoid. Like Triarius said, boiled linseed oil also works. Water has no affct on the consistency of oil paint because it is suspended in oil. The advantage of oils though is that they come in many more colors. Thick and slow drying paint http://www.florymodels.co.uk/weathering-wash/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ex-USMC_Hornet_WSO Posted January 17, 2014 Author Share Posted January 17, 2014 Flory models (promodeler) is already pre thinned for airbrushing and also weathers the aircraft. Oil washes require more time and need to be thinned specifically with enamel thinner or turpenoid. Like Triarius said, boiled linseed oil also works. Water has no affct on the consistency of oil paint because it is suspended in oil. The advantage of oils though is that they come in many more colors. Thick and slow drying paint http://www.florymodels.co.uk/weathering-wash/ Thank you! That was very helpful. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PetarB Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 I have a tube of burnt sienna that I got when I was 23. That was almost 19 years ago. The stuff lasts forever. I have one I bought around 20 years ago (I was 20). Still use it... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sulaco Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 I also use oil washes but i'm never sure of what color to use. Do you base your choice in relation with the base coat color or are you mostly using the same color? In my case, it seem i'm always relying on Payne's Gray as i'm rather reluctant to try the umber and sienna way... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jfmajor60 Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 I also use oil washes but i'm never sure of what color to use. Do you base your choice in relation with the base coat color or are you mostly using the same color? In my case, it seem i'm always relying on Payne's Gray as i'm rather reluctant to try the umber and sienna way... I use mostly Burnt Sienna and some black or mixture of the two, I apply the wash over a coat of future since the oils dont dry right away you have time to work with them and can achieve very subtle staining effects. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ex-USMC_Hornet_WSO Posted January 21, 2014 Author Share Posted January 21, 2014 Flory models (promodeler) is already pre thinned for airbrushing and also weathers the aircraft. Oil washes require more time and need to be thinned specifically with enamel thinner or turpenoid. Like Triarius said, boiled linseed oil also works. Water has no affct on the consistency of oil paint because it is suspended in oil. The advantage of oils though is that they come in many more colors. Thick and slow drying paint http://www.florymodels.co.uk/weathering-wash/ Are Vallejo Model Washes any good? How do they compare to the Flory models washes? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pep Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 + 1 for Flory, I've tried other things like the oil washes, the new testors washes and other things but for me flory is still the best. also if you have to redo it or don't like how it comes our just five it a wash with soap and water. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ex-USMC_Hornet_WSO Posted January 22, 2014 Author Share Posted January 22, 2014 Get the Flory washes, you won't be dissappointed. They are super easy to use with great results. Here is my LANTIRN pod after a Flory wash (Dark Dirt). Steve Are they safe to apply over a clear coat of Future or does it have to be an enamel or lacquer coat? Thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
A-10 LOADER Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 I don't know about applying them over future, I don't use it. I don't believe / trust in water based paints. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Triarius Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 <snip> I don't believe / trust in water based paints. Steve INFIDEL! UNBELIEVER! Just kidding! The way you phrased it made such a reply irresistible. :rolleyes:/> Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Grey Ghost 531 Posted January 23, 2014 Share Posted January 23, 2014 I use Holbein Ivory Black and Titanium White thinned with Turpenoid, mixed to a shade of gray that's just a little bit darker than what I'm washing. I use almost black for control surface separation lines. I think it looks better than using plain black on everything. I've found that the Holbein has a finer grain pigment than W&N and doesn't look like little specks when thinned out to a pin wash. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sulaco Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 I use Holbein Ivory Black and Titanium White thinned with Turpenoid, mixed to a shade of gray that's just a little bit darker than what I'm washing. Shades of neutral gray is a great idea. I'll try that. Thanks for sharing. :thumbsup:/> Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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