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About A-10 LOADER

  • Rank
    Life Member (Mon-Key Handler)
  • Birthday 01/28/1963

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  • Location
    Horsham, PA. Next to former JRB Willow Grove ARS
  • Interests
    Military aviation 1960 to the present. Canon cameras, lenses and Kodachrome / Fujichrome slide film.

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  1. Here's my two sketches to show what the booth will look like. Steve
  2. My paint booth build is still on hold because of availability of my filter holders. I ordered two 24" x 26" filter holders, which will be the floor of the booth, back in late August / early September. One was the correct size and the other was not. I'm STILL trying to get the second one in the correct size. I've ordered 4 times thru Amazon now and keep getting the wrong size. At this point I have no idea when I'll be able to get the second one. Steve Two of these will be the floor of the booth.
  3. Pretty much all putties used for modeling these days shrink, that's why you have to go back and add multiple coats later. This is one of the big reasons I use gel CA for all my gap filling. Plus, when you hit it with accelerator, you can sand right away. As for the Mr. Finishing Surfacer 1500, it's all I use for primer these days, a 1:1 mix with Mr. Color Leveling thinner yields excellent results. Steve "TOMCATS FOREVER, BABY...!"
  4. Our A-10's only flew with a ACMI pod one time when we went to a Red Flag at Nellis in 97. We, the Weapons Loaders, were not allowed to touch the pods, these were loaded and unloaded by civilian contractors on the base. For all our other stateside deployments, Combat Hammer at Hill AFB, a Green Flag at Nellis supporting the US Army, our summertime trips up to Ft. Drum in NY or, our yearly Snowbird trip to DM AFB, we never used the pod. Even during our local everyday training missions, the pod was not flown. Steve
  5. Here you go. I also have their white putty #87095. This tube is probably 5-6 years old. I really don't use these types of putty / fillers much for two reasons, #1 they shrink and, #2 you have to wait a while ( usually overnight ) for them to dry. I prefer to use Loctite Super Glue Ultragel for filling my gaps/seams. Hit them with some accelerator and start sanding. I used the Tamiya putty in this case, instead of the CA, because the resin wings were soft and I didn't want to sand any more than necessary. I also put a heavy coat on because I didn't want to have to do this more than once.
  6. Here's what I did when I added the resin wings to my S-3B and ES-3A. I put two coats of Mr. Finishing Surfacer 1500 to check my sanding ( 320 grit ) that I did to the seam and carefully re-scribed the areas that need it. Then I added some Tamiya silver putty to the seam. This area was wet sanded ( 600 grit ) and re-primed with another two coats to check things. I always wet sand whenever possible because it gives you a smoother finish and reduces the chance of scratches. I didn't notice nor see any difference between the resin wing area and the plastic of the model at this point,it all blended
  7. Then you'll need what we use to call "Nitro Stain" in my body shop days. Once we did the bondo work, we primed the area and them added the Nitro Stain to help fill the tiny pores and sandpaper scratches. This was all wet sanded, dried and, re-primed again to see how the area looked. Steve
  8. At this point, I'd think it just be easier to order the new Tamiya kit #61122 with some aftermarket nozzles. Steve
  9. I don't own the kit but, reading the review on it, it sounds like it's still a A-10A with updated decals. I guess the real question is, how accurate of a A-10C do you want to build ? For me, decals for a 1/48th scale cockpit, are a no go. I'm also not a fan of Eduard's photo-etch cockpit stuff. I would send Phase Hanger Resin a email asking him if his cockpit and other parts will work for this kit. You'll also need his following sets for the C upgrade, p/n 48107,48109 and 48110. On top of all this you'll need updated weapons too ( JDAMS, GBU's ) and either a LITENING pod or a SNIPER pod.
  10. Pictures of your issues would help a lot. It's hard to give advice on something without seeing it. You obviously will have to prime the areas and possibly sand and prime again to blend everything in. Steve
  11. Google is your friend, for aftermarket items, for kits. Steve
  12. She was never modified to D standards. Steve
  13. Thank you Gregg, very much appreciated. Steve
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