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1/48 Academy B-25B Mitchell


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Well well well, paint indeed :D

Looks really nice :) I usually thin Lifecolor at a ratio of about 1 part paint and 1-11/2 part thinner and a few drops of acrylic retarder. I paint very thin coats that dries almost instantly, every time I lift my finger from the trigger a little bit of paint dries on the needle, so the AB clogs in about 5 or 6 goes. I use a cotton swab dipped in thinner to wipe the needle...I don't disassemble the AB just wipe the tip and continue shooting. I have an Iwata HP-CH with a 0.3mm needle.

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Well well well, paint indeed :D/>

Looks really nice :)/> I usually thin Lifecolor at a ratio of about 1 part paint and 1-11/2 part thinner and a few drops of acrylic retarder. I paint very thin coats that dries almost instantly, every time I lift my finger from the trigger a little bit of paint dries on the needle, so the AB clogs in about 5 or 6 goes. I use a cotton swab dipped in thinner to wipe the needle...I don't disassemble the AB just wipe the tip and continue shooting. I have an Iwata HP-CH with a 0.3mm needle.

Janne,

At 1:1 or even 2:1, the paint is so thin that it takes coat after coat to cover.

Joel

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Love the B-25 wearing those colors. Keep it up Joel!

F20D,

Thanks for the support. It sure feels and finally looks great to have some paint on her. The Mojo levels have certainly kicked up a few notches. Still a long way to go, but I sensing that I can finally reach the finish line.

Joel

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It's hard to believe, but I've actually got another update. 1st it was weeks between updates as I struggled with putty, sanding, priming, and doing it over again. Now the work stages seem to be flowing somewhat smoother, and certainly faster.

I air brushed on a weathered shade of O.D. in a wide blotchy pattern to represent moderate fading from the salt air and water, as well as whatever bleaching took place during their training on land. Then a few days later it took me more then 2 hours to mask out the de-icing boots. At 1st I was going to use a very dark gray, but after a google search, the boots were indeed a black rubber.

Look closely and you can see the lighter OD blotchy pattern.

untitled-3.jpg

untitled-4-2.jpg

untitled-6.jpg

untitled-5.jpg

One thing to note, the rivet detail hasn't been weathered as yet. that's the shadow effect from the photo lights. I sure hope when I weather them, it looks that good.

untitled-7.jpg

Joel

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Hey Joel,

Coming along nicely!

Do you do anything special to prepare for attaching the vertical stabilizers and rudders after painting? For example, perhaps ensure a "sloppier" fit? Will you strip the paint in the way of the glued surfaces? On landing gear, I usually mask glue surfaces to enable a good fit and proper gluing surfaces. What about the joint lines?

--

dnl

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Hey Joel,

Coming along nicely!

Do you do anything special to prepare for attaching the vertical stabilizers and rudders after painting? For example, perhaps ensure a "sloppier" fit? Will you strip the paint in the way of the glued surfaces? On landing gear, I usually mask glue surfaces to enable a good fit and proper gluing surfaces. What about the joint lines?

--

dnl

dnl42,

Thanks for the vote of confidence.

Joel

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Looking real good, like the faded look :D/>

Janne,

Thanks. Lifecolor makes it even easier with pre-mixed weathered OD. I couldn't resist so I bought it. I do really like how it looks. Should look even better once the weathering starts after decaling as I like them to have the same weathered effects as the paint does.

Joel

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  • 2 weeks later...

Work continues at a slower pace then my usual snail's pace. I've reached the point of decaling. I wasn't sure what base I would be using for the filter and washes, so I went with an Acrylic clear gloss varnish by Winsor & Newton. I thin it 1:1 with Tamiya X20-A, and a final coat thinned at 2:3.

Once dry, I used the kit decals, and was I ever disappointed. The Academy version of the Accurate Miniature decals done by Cartograf are well in register, and the colors appear to be dead on. The major issue I had with them is that neither the Microscale system nor Walther's Solvaset seamed to have any effect on them. I'm going to order Mr. Set and Mr. Sol which seem to work well with Chinese decals when I next need to use kit decals produced in China.

For the most part the decals settled down ok, but rarely fully in the recessed panel lines.

Once the decals dried, I decided that I would be using dark Acrylic filter, and washes, so I sealed the decals with Alcad's Mineral Spirit based Gloss Kleer Kote #310.

B-25B-4.jpg

B-25B-5.jpg

Then I decided to dry fit the twin vertical Stabs. What a difference in the overall appearance of the Mitchell.

B-25B-8.jpg

B-25B-7-2.jpg

Joel

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