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Jan 17 2009, 07:20 PM
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#1
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Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!) ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 256 Joined: 24-September 08 From: Northern Germany Member No.: 13684 |
My first big build this year.
I´m going to build a Agusta Westland EH-101 Merlin in HM1-version of the Royal Navy. It will be ZH860 with the nice tiger-scheme: link thingy I use the Revell- and the Italeri-kit because the Revell-decals are much better but the Italeri-kit includes the 'wrap round' rotorhead. The Eduard-set will be used for detailling and to get rid of those oversized steps shown in this firt picture. ![]() I tuned my old electric tooth-brush a little bit (following these instructions, so it was quite easy to sand the steps down. Than the area was polished using a sand file. You can also see the cut-out-window beside the front entrance. ![]() There also were some steps at the back that had to go. The vent on the upper left side will be worked at later. I´m a bit undecided if it will only be sanded down or if I should drill through the hull. ![]() The steps are gone but you can see another issue I´ll have to deal with. The side-panel doesn´t fit flat - it´s placed too deep. I´ll have to find a way to raise it a bit to get a propper finish. ![]() Tipps, tricks, critique, help and all other posts are always welcome!. This post has been edited by ice225: Jan 4 2010, 05:13 PM |
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Jan 17 2009, 07:22 PM
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#2
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Full Blown Model Geek ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1492 Joined: 29-August 07 From: LOS ANGELES. CA Member No.: 10813 |
My first big build this year. I´m going to build a Agusta Westland EH-101 Merlin in HM1-version of the Royal Navy. It will be ZH860 with the nice tiger-scheme: link thingy I use the Revell- and the Italeri-kit because the Revell-decals are much better but the Italeri-kit includes the 'wrap round' rotorhead. The Eduard-set will be used for detailling and to get rid of those oversized steps shown in this firt picture. ![]() I tuned my old electric tooth-brush a little bit (following these instructions, so it was quite easy to sand the steps down. Than the area was polished using a sand file. You can also see the cut-out-window beside the front entrance. ![]() What scale is that...1/72? hows the Eduard photoetched ? lookig good so far Oliver There also were some steps at the back that had to go. The vent on the upper left side will be worked at later. I´m a bit undecided if it will only be sanded down or if I should drill through the hull. ![]() The steps are gone but you can see another issue I´ll have to deal with. The side-panel doesn´t fit flat - it´s placed too deep. I´ll have to find a way to raise it a bit to get a propper finish. ![]() Tipps, tricks, critique, help and all other posts are always welcome!. |
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Jan 17 2009, 11:47 PM
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#3
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Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!) ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 256 Joined: 24-September 08 From: Northern Germany Member No.: 13684 |
@shark64: no text?
Anyway - there was quite a challenge in this build because for the first time I had to work on a canopy. The wipers had to go (because it will get pe-ones) and the bar in the middle is way to broadly in my opinion (comparison picture). Damn I had doubts if this will turn out good because it´s the "face" of the model. ![]() So I took the modified toothbrush and started sanding till all unwanted structures were gone. ![]() Then I used a file for nail-polishing and polished it. ![]() A bath in the german version of future (it´s called Erdal Glänzer) was made for the finish. It´s my first ever revised transparent part and I´m quite pleased with the result. Now I wonder how to do the new, narrowly center-bar.
This post has been edited by ice225: Jan 4 2010, 05:20 PM |
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Jan 18 2009, 01:31 AM
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#4
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![]() Actually Getting Something Built ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 586 Joined: 5-October 06 From: Barricaded in Fortress LemonJello Member No.: 7950 |
@shark64: no text? Anyway - there was quite a challenge in this build because for the first time I had to work on a canopy. The wipers had to go (because it will get pe-ones) and the bar in the middle is way to broadly in my opinion (comparison picture). Damn I had doubts if this will turn out good because it´s the "face" of the model. ![]() So I took the modified toothbrush and started sanding till all unwanted structures were gone. ![]() Then I used a file for nail-polishing and polished it. ![]() A bath in the german version of future (it´s called Erdal Glänzer) was made for the finish. It´s my first ever revised transparent part and I´m quite pleased with the result. Now I wonder how to do the new, narrowly center-bar. ![]() Looking like a great start. What scale is this kit? |
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Jan 18 2009, 01:32 AM
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#5
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Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!) ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 256 Joined: 24-September 08 From: Northern Germany Member No.: 13684 |
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Jan 18 2009, 02:42 AM
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#6
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JET NOISE - the Sound of Freedom! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 11762 Joined: 9-June 06 From: between Hamburg and Fulda Gap, Germany Member No.: 7268 |
Wow!
How does that toothbrush sander work? I already bought another extra electric toothbrush to convert it to a sander, but haven't found the time yet. For the strut down the middle of the windscreen, how about not building it at all and instead paint it with the rest of the airframe? Or maybe a strip of self-adhesive aluminium tape? |
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Jan 18 2009, 11:05 AM
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#7
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Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!) ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 256 Joined: 24-September 08 From: Northern Germany Member No.: 13684 |
Wow! How does that toothbrush sander work? I already bought another extra electric toothbrush to convert it to a sander, but haven't found the time yet. For the strut down the middle of the windscreen, how about not building it at all and instead paint it with the rest of the airframe? Or maybe a strip of self-adhesive aluminium tape? Thank you! The sander is a perfekt tool! I used these instructions to build it: LINK I started with grit 400 , then 1200 and then I used the nailpolish-thingy. After sleeping on it I think I just paint the bar. After removing the mask, it should look quite close to the original raised line there. |
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Jan 18 2009, 04:00 PM
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#8
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Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!) ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 256 Joined: 24-September 08 From: Northern Germany Member No.: 13684 |
Some small progress - I prepared the cabin floor for the sonar station.
Some of those raised lines have to go, to let it fit: ![]() Most of the work is done with a cutter and my toothbrush-sander: ![]() and this is, what i will look like: ![]() The nose had to be modified too. Those suggested hinges have to go: ![]() Here the nose is ready but it will need some extra work to make it a perfect fit: ![]() And this shows one of the major "problems" of this kit. Revell says you have to complete the front-section and the back-section of the fusalage first and then fit them together. I wouldn´t do ot that way. I´m, going to fit the cabin halfs to the tail arm-halfs first and then glue the long halfs together to finish the cabin. this should make it possible to reduces the areas that need filling and sanding on the top and the bottom, where are less details that could be destroyed.
This post has been edited by ice225: Jan 4 2010, 05:25 PM |
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Jan 20 2009, 08:13 PM
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#9
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Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!) ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 256 Joined: 24-September 08 From: Northern Germany Member No.: 13684 |
Necessity is the mother of invention.
On primeportal I came across this picture of a Merlin interior LINK and since then I wondered how to do the sound isolation. I read about toiletpaper or those paper towels that are soaked with glue but I wanted to get the smooth finish of the original. Italeri/Revell does it this way: ![]() In the first picture you can already see the solution of my problem - it was there right in front of my nose all the time. It´s an old cut board from IKEA of Sweden, that I use for my work. ![]() So I took some aluminum foil... ![]() ...and wiped over it with my finger to press the structure in the foil. ![]() I´m quite pleased with the result but I´ll go to IKEA and try to get a new board without so many cuts.
This post has been edited by ice225: Jan 4 2010, 05:30 PM |
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Jan 20 2009, 08:49 PM
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#10
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Full Blown Model Geek ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1492 Joined: 29-August 07 From: LOS ANGELES. CA Member No.: 10813 |
Necessity is the mother of invention. On primeportal I came across this picture of a Merlin interior LINK and since then I wondered how to do the sound isolation. I read about toiletpaper or those paper towels that are soaked with glue but I wanted to get the smooth finish of the original. Italeri/Revell does it this way: ![]() In the first picture you can already see the solution of my problem - it was there right in front of my nose all the time. It´s an old cut board from IKEA of Sweden, that I use for my work. ![]() So I took some aluminum foil... ![]() ...and wiped over it with my finger to press the structure in the foil. ![]() I´m quite pleased with the result but I´ll go to IKEA and try to get a new board without so many cuts. ![]() What a great idea. Whatever it takes to get the final results. Thanks Ikea! Oliver |
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Jan 20 2009, 08:50 PM
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#11
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Glue Required ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 29 Joined: 16-November 08 From: The Netherlands Member No.: 14049 |
Great progress! Why are you wearing gloves?
- Rick |
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Jan 20 2009, 09:11 PM
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#12
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![]() Full Blown Model Geek ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1590 Joined: 14-May 08 From: Peoples Republic of California Member No.: 12734 |
Neat idea with the toothbrush. The site is not in english, the pics work for most of it but are the round pieces just plastic and is the yellow tape just two sided tape?
I would not have believed you could hack up a clear piece like that and get it nice and clear again like you did. |
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Jan 20 2009, 09:44 PM
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#13
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![]() OM NOM NOM ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1880 Joined: 2-February 06 From: Arlington Heights, IL/Dayton, OH (UD) Member No.: 6447 |
Okay, am I the only one that doesn't see the first sets of pictures? All I see is "Direct Upload (dot) net NO HOTLINKING ALLOWED! blah blah blah"
For some reason, I can see the last set of pictures though. Take care, Austin |
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Jan 21 2009, 08:12 AM
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#14
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Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!) ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 256 Joined: 24-September 08 From: Northern Germany Member No.: 13684 |
What a great idea. Whatever it takes to get the final results. Thanks Ikea! Thank you - I´ve searched the appartement to find something that could do the job and finally got lucky. Great progress! Why are you wearing gloves? Thanks! I try to keep the plastik clean. First thing I did was to rinse all the plastic parts to let the paint stick perfectly on it later on. Neat idea with the toothbrush. The site is not in english, the pics work for most of it but are the round pieces just plastic and is the yellow tape just two sided tape? I would not have believed you could hack up a clear piece like that and get it nice and clear again like you did. Thank you! My round piece of plastik is just a small part of a wooden spoon and the yellow tape is normally used to fix carpets. I think´you could any two sided tape for the job. Okay, am I the only one that doesn't see the first sets of pictures? All I see is "Direct Upload (dot) net NO HOTLINKING ALLOWED! blah blah blah" If there´s a problem with the pictures feel free to pm me. I can see them all but perhaps there´s something like an IP-filter for some areas (...the fairy tale of the WORLDWIDEweb,,, |
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Jan 21 2009, 09:38 AM
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#15
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![]() Full Blown Model Geek ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1208 Joined: 11-January 04 From: Somerset, UK Member No.: 1799 |
looking good so far 'ice, you adding much interior detail? If you need any help just ask!
Dave |
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Jan 21 2009, 09:45 AM
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#16
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![]() helo crack :) ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 50 Joined: 29-January 05 From: Hannover . Germany Member No.: 4105 |
Thanks! I try to keep the plastik clean. First thing I did was to rinse all the plastic parts to let the paint stick perfectly on it later on. No offence meant, ice, but I believe that wearing gloves in this stage is a bit disproportionate. You can wash you hands beforehand and even if you wetsand the fuselage, it becomes dirty anyway and you're forced to clean it anyway. Before i apply the first coat I always clean the surface to remove remaining sanding dust, finger grease and all this stuff which should not be there. If you have to handle the model when all the paint is applied, then one could think about weain' gloves, but I would rather prefer medical gloves than fabric ones, bcz of the risk of havin fuzzez overall. A good modeler is not distinguished from the beginner by the fact that he's wearing gloves during construction or not. Greets |
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Jan 21 2009, 10:57 AM
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#17
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Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!) ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 256 Joined: 24-September 08 From: Northern Germany Member No.: 13684 |
looking good so far 'ice, you adding much interior detail? If you need any help just ask! Dave Thank you. If you have any more interior pics it would be great. Especially the housing for the sonar would be interesting. This is the only picture I found and the box in the front makes it difficult to guess how the rest could look like: http://data4.primeportal.net/hangar/howard...m1_10_of_47.jpg I´m also looking for pics of the sonar operators workplace and the "gangway" between cockpit and the rest of the cabin. No offence meant, ice, but I believe that wearing gloves in this stage is a bit disproportionate. You can wash you hands beforehand and even if you wetsand the fuselage, it becomes dirty anyway and you're forced to clean it anyway. Before i apply the first coat I always clean the surface to remove remaining sanding dust, finger grease and all this stuff which should not be there. If you have to handle the model when all the paint is applied, then one could think about weain' gloves, but I would rather prefer medical gloves than fabric ones, bcz of the risk of havin fuzzez overall. A good modeler is not distinguished from the beginner by the fact that he's wearing gloves during construction or not. It´s just a try and while sanding the canopy, those gloves made a great job because I could wipe away the dust with the thumb and didn´t leave fingerprints on the canopy. But I wanted to give latex gloves a try later anyway. I just don´t get your last sentence completely. |
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Jan 21 2009, 06:56 PM
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#18
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![]() Canadian Aviation Fan!! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1191 Joined: 24-June 03 From: Ottawa, Canada Member No.: 152 |
Here's another method for the interior sound proofing mats, scroll down to the EH101 part.
http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index....howtopic=156089 |
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Jan 21 2009, 07:09 PM
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#19
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Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!) ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 256 Joined: 24-September 08 From: Northern Germany Member No.: 13684 |
That looks even better - I´ll have to think about that.
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Jan 25 2009, 12:44 AM
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#20
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Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!) ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 256 Joined: 24-September 08 From: Northern Germany Member No.: 13684 |
Well after some research (Special thanks to a very nice ARC-member!
In THIS picture from primeportal you can see the carousel for the sonar buoys. It´s placed a little bit behind the side window. If you now look closely at the kit you see, that the cabin interior ends right behind the window (where the front half of the fuselage ends) so there is no space for the carousel. The yellow line shows, were Revell/Italeri placed the back wall and the red line shows, where it should be. ![]() So if you want to place a scrathbuild a carousel and place it right you´ll have to expand the cabin interior. This post has been edited by ice225: Jan 4 2010, 05:31 PM |
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 29th July 2010 - 10:24 PM |