Whiskey Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 So I took the plunge the other day and ordered an Iwata-Medea Eclipse HP CS gravity fed airbrush. Got for $89 off of Amazon and from what I've gathered over the last few months while researching this was basically a steal. With that this is not exactly my first airbrush, I had an Aztec when I a long time ago when I was a kid and I totally let that thing get destroyed so I really have zero experience with one. However what I am posting all this for is after reading numerous topics on here and other various sources, I followed this topic closely:What air compressor should I buy. During the discussion Jennings mentioned about the CO2 option. What I do not understand is with a CO2 tank, what's the best regulator to buy for this setup? The only other questions I have is, what else am I missing to get this ball rolling? The gun is the only thing I bought aside from the obvious (compressor, hoses, paint). This is a piecemeal project as with two young kids (3 yr old and a 4 month old) and being in the Army, time and money are near none for my beloved hobby. I appreciate any tips. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dnl42 Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 Practice, practice, practice. Oh, and read the rest of Don's Airbrush Tips, too. I use a Badger 360 airbrush with an Iwata compressor. Also, in addition to cotton swabs, I've started using interdental brushes to clean the airbrush when I break it down, which is after every session. The wide size for the needle bearing and the tight size for the air passage into the tip. While know for a fact there are people who do wonders with acrylic paints (Vallejo, Tamiya, MM Acryl, &etc.) I never started getting nuanced results until I switched to enamel. Using Alclad taught me that lacquers provide the best possible finish. So today, my paints of choice are Mr. Color and Alclad. I use MM enamels when I can't get a lacquer in a needed color. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Whiskey Posted November 5, 2015 Author Share Posted November 5, 2015 Thanks dnl. Yeah I've been a long time follower of Don's airbrushing videos. Amazing stuff what he can do. And I've also been aware of the interdental brushes (thanks to Don). Appreciate the heads up on the paint options. Are there any other useful things I need to know about for just piecing together my airbrush setup? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Netz Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 For a Co2 set up, use what ever regulator you can afford, they will all regulate down to "0" pounds, but you can also double regulate if the cheapie regulator does not have fine gauge readings, use the regulator at the bottle and a second regulator at the end of the hose where you'll attach your A/B to, you can set the tank to say 50 lbs, then fine tune with the second regulator. I bought a $25 Harbor Freight reg for my portable paint ball set up and it works fine. If you already have an garage type air compressor you can just buy a regulator with water trap and use that. Curt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janissary Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 Here are my thoughts and tips about airbrushes: - I own two Iwatas and they are great. If I don't get good results, the problem is usually me, not the airbrush :) - You may quickly find out you will need a robust airbrush holder/stand. I made one myself that consists of two underwhelmingly simple pieces only. Happy to share if you are interested. Necessary for paint transfer, mixing etc. - I use Iwata smartjet for my compressor. Silent, durable, almost no maintenance. - If not using CO2, I would recommend a water/moisture trap especially during the muggy months of the summer. I think Smartjet already comes in with one. Also the set includes the air hose. - Add thinner into the airbrush first, and then the paint, stir thoroughly (I use a toothpick), and for even more mixing, consider backflushing the airbrush. This means block the front of the airbrush with your finger and let the air blow backwards into the paint cup. I find this also useful for unclogging dried or chunky paint at times. - I use a toothpick to stir the paint bottle and transfer paint form the bottle to the airbrush. Three - four paint dips and transfers enable you to paint a surprisingly large area. - Contrary to common suggestions I read, after cleaning my airbrush, I remove the needle and clean it by swiping in between a cotton piece of cloth from back to front (don't go against the tip of the needle). So I never leave the needle in the airbrush overnight or longer. - After every project (anywhere from 6 months to a year), I disassemble all the parts and clean the airbrush inside out using dental brushes and various tools. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Whiskey Posted November 5, 2015 Author Share Posted November 5, 2015 ^^^ Sounds like cleaning my rifle lol. Awesome advice Netz and Janissary, you guys rock! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Netz Posted November 6, 2015 Share Posted November 6, 2015 This is my primary set up and what I use the most, all connections are with air chucks,you can run as much hose as you need, my compressor stays on the service porch and I run hose to my table and regulator. And just to play around I set up a portable co2 rig using a paint ball tank. If you are interested in co2 go visit your local welding supply shop and see what kind of exchange program they have, I can get an exchange of a 20lb bottle for $35.00, my shop does not refill just exchange, which is actually to my advantage as they said they will take an out of date (inspection) bottle, so I can find a cheap used bottle at a garage sale and exchange that, no need to buy a new bottle just to let if go on exchange. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Whiskey Posted November 6, 2015 Author Share Posted November 6, 2015 Cool, thanks for the ideas. Just for the sake of easement I will probably start with something like your smaller, portable CO2 rig. It seems a little bit more logical with the way I have my workshop put together in a small place within the garage. I recall seeing an image of a homemade airbrush booth I think made out of plywood and a computer fan on top of it? Anyone seen this before? I thought I saved the link or at least the picture but can't find it at all. If I remember correctly I think it only cost the user like around $40. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 Netz, Just out of curiosity, what does that setup minus the AB and hose approximately go for, and how long will that tank last? I just went for a Iwata Jet Plus pro with duel regulators and connections. Set me back $467.00. My wife just couldn't take the long painting sessions with my Husky Scout compressor making all that noise when it went on, and I couldn't paint late at night or early in the morning. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jinmmydel Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 I just don't see how a CO2 tank can be remotely economical, or convenient. My compressor has a 3 gallon tank and I'll empty that just priming a 1/32 fighter and cleaning the airbrush afterwards. If you want to go the compressor route - and that'd be my recommendation - you want one with a tank so it doesn't run constantly while you're painting. Also, avoid the no-name cheap ones you find on eBay and Amazon and the like. It took me going through a couple before I realized they were a false economy. Neither lasted more than a year, and there was no way to source replacement parts. A regulator and moisture trap should be fairly obvious too. As for cleaning. A couple things. 1) Don't but the "you can't use solvents because of the o-rings" my main workhorse is an Iwata and I clean EVERYTHING with lacquer thinner and have for years and had/have no issues. Nor do I with my H&S Evolution that I use for delicate work. 2) Avoid Windex. Some people will tell you to use it to clean acrylics. It works, but it will eventually eat the finish of the airbrush. It has mine (from when I did it years ago). It's completely functional but it's ugly. 3) You should never need to clean anywhere aft of the paint cup. Do not soak the whole body in water, or any other cleaning agent. The lube is back there, and should last forever. If you're getting paint back there, something is wrong. Always remove the needle from the front to avoid pulling paint through the rear. 4) get a cleaning kit designed for your airbrush if you're at all hesitant about damaging it. I use inter-dental brushes, but after years of experience I know how to not damage the nozzle with it. If you shove one in there just wrong or too hard you're going to have problems. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 Jimmydel, Years ago my brother used a dive tank with a regulator and moisture trap. I don't know how much pressure it takes to fill it, but it lasted nearly 6 months of constant use before it needed to be refilled. The tank is heavy and very thick walled, while the tanks on most compressors are thin wall sheet. Firefighters use the same tank, and you can imagine how long their air supply lasts at a much higher flow rate then what we use for modeling. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jinmmydel Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 Very good point. Also, CO2 is going to have a different density, so that's a factor. People use CO2 tanks, so clearly they get use out of them. My concern would be just running out at the most un-opportune time. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 Very good point. Also, CO2 is going to have a different density, so that's a factor. People use CO2 tanks, so clearly they get use out of them. My concern would be just running out at the most un-opportune time. You can tell when the tank is starting to get low, because you have to constantly open up the valve to get the same psi pressure. I thought about going that route, but opted for a new Iwata compressor just because I really wanted one. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Thommo Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 (edited) If you want to go the compressor route - and that'd be my recommendation - you want one with a tank so it doesn't run constantly while you're painting. Also, avoid the no-name cheap ones you find on eBay and Amazon and the like. It took me going through a couple before I realized they were a false economy. Neither lasted more than a year, and there was no way to source replacement parts. A regulator and moisture trap should be fairly obvious too. I've had a Sparmax compressor without a storage tank (but with a regulator/gauge/moisture trap) for 15+ years now which runs constantly while I'm spraying and it's still going strong. The cylinder head gets pretty hot after prolonged operation, but it keeps chugging away. It is so quiet I use it at the kitchen table while the family are watching TV 15m away. Cost me about $250 from memory. Hope I haven't just jinxed it and it sh*ts itself on my next build - though if it did, it owes me nothing. Edited November 10, 2015 by Thommo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Netz Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 Netz, Just out of curiosity, what does that setup minus the AB and hose approximately go for, and how long will that tank last? I just went for a Iwata Jet Plus pro with duel regulators and connections. Set me back $467.00. My wife just couldn't take the long painting sessions with my Husky Scout compressor making all that noise when it went on, and I couldn't paint late at night or early in the morning. Joel I have about $65.00 into the mini tank set up, $25 regulator $17 adapter $21.00 co2 tank new and filled $5 for air chucks. If I were to go with a 20lb set up you can delete the adapter, and add about $60-$100 for a tank. As mentioned I spoke to my local welding supplier and they do a bottle exchange for $35, and will accept and out of inspection bottle, that will save me $ on the initial cost of getting a 20lb bottle, I can find one cheap and just exchange it with them, no need to buy a new bottle because they will take it and give you a different bottle as they do not refill them just exchange. But if I "had" to buy a new bottle I can find them for $100. As for life span of the 24oz bottle, I don't know. I've painted at least 2 models and have not seen any noticeable drop on the gauge. I gave it to one of my model club members to run it out as I was curious myself, but he never used it.... Some have commented on a 20 LB bottle lasting from 6 months others up to 3 years. My concern would be just running out at the most un-opportune time. There is a gauge that shows the PSI in the bottle, so there should be no surprises. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jinmmydel Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 I've had a Sparmax compressor without a storage tank (but with a regulator/gauge/moisture trap) for 15+ years now which runs constantly while I'm spraying and it's still going strong. The cylinder head gets pretty hot after prolonged operation, but it keeps chugging away. It is so quiet I use it at the kitchen table while the family are watching TV 15m away. Cost me about $250 from memory. Hope I haven't just jinxed it and it sh*ts itself on my next build - though if it did, it owes me nothing. Yeah. I suspect the Sparmax is a little better quality than the cheap made in China one I had when i first returned to the hobby. It' lasted about a year. The real problem is living in 80+ humidity. It caused all kids of moisture problems...with two in line water traps. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Whiskey Posted November 11, 2015 Author Share Posted November 11, 2015 Correct me if I am wrong, bught Iwata airbrushes are supposed to have a hologram sticker on the box yes? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 Correct me if I am wrong, bught Iwata airbrushes are supposed to have a hologram sticker on the box yes? Yes. I have both boxes still from my Iwata HP-M1 & HP-M2, and both boxes do indeed have a hologram. I also had an Eclipe (which I sold), and that box had one as well. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Whiskey Posted November 11, 2015 Author Share Posted November 11, 2015 Yes. I have both boxes still from my Iwata HP-M1 & HP-M2, and both boxes do indeed have a hologram. I also had an Eclipe (which I sold), and that box had one as well. Joel Poop, guess I'm sending this one back to Amazon. No hologram. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joel_W Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 Poop, guess I'm sending this one back to Amazon. No hologram. If you were led to believe that you bought a genuine Iwata airbrush in the original packaging, then I would contact their customer Service department and lodge a complaint. I've never bought anything from Amazon, but I understand that a lot of what is sold online comes from other sources that they just list for a fee. There are several Chinese companies making knockoffs of Iwata most popular air brushes. I've purchased all of my airbrushes as well as my new compressor from Chicago Airbrush Supply. I'm quite happy with their service and prices. All items over $99 have free shipping, and as long as you're not an Illinois resident, there is no sales tax either. Joel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Thommo Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 Correct me if I am wrong, bught Iwata airbrushes are supposed to have a hologram sticker on the box yes? Phew, I just ran off and checked my box and it has a small hologram sticker sating 'Iwata' on the side. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
habu2 Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 Poop, guess I'm sending this one back to Amazon. No hologram. Can you post a link to the seller/item on amazon? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.