adgemage1966

If you really want to go to town on these I would suggest you look at the Waldron 1/32 SBD dauntless cockpit placards. ... then also get WWII US aircraft instruments, and the assorted bezels.

Got a tool-steel "beading tool" set by Chevron (of Japan). Been searching for this for quite some time as it allows me to impress rivets on plastic (or steel) from 1.3 mm down to 0.15mm ..... now to find out how to use the darned things.

Solvent based paints are best for metallics (much better than acrylics) so you will definitely have to mix and match depending on what you are trying to achieve.... for example Humbrol or Testors chrome silver is really bright and great for detail work, Tamiya is good for brush painting on a primed clean surface (DO NOT EVER USE GUNZE LACQUERS FOR BRUSH PAINTING ON WIDE SURFACES) because they cure so fast that they tend to drag... Only the Japanese use Gunze lacquers for large surfaces and I still ahven't found out how they do it.... Welcome back to the hobby!

Try a sharp needle and impress. Vertically or at an angle, but it will leave a kind of raised lip around.

Your thread reads like a Virginia Wolf novel. But to answer your quesion, try TENAX, or TAMIYA extra thin cement, which slightly dissolves the plastic and forms a rather permanent bond hey even plastic deteriorates after some time. But my best experiences involve trying to pry a fuselage apart about 48 hours after TENAX, and it popped the plastic, and not the seam. Good enough for you? Cheers....

Anyone ever tried using Future under the decals then putting Sol after?

Geoff is right there. Never use lacquers over anything other than lacquers. The "hotness" of the lacquer thinners will disrupt the acrylic undercoats.. .

Hi All, I have been using Accelerator for years and it has not crazed the plastic. I am using the stuff from Bob Smith Industries. I bought it online from Greatmodels Webstore for a couple of dollars. It DOES NOT craze plastic - even transparencies. BSI also sells the thing to other hobby stores as an OEM manufacturer and they put on their own adhesive labels. Look up www.bsiadhesives.com they also do different types of CA. On the curing bit, the CA really does not harden totally for about 20 minutes as it becomes Acrylic.... so during that time you should plan to do as much removal as

Hi Charles, There are trace element differences in the different lacquer thinners (especially used during cracking), these can affect the chemical properties of the paint; for example Gunze lacquer thinner and their finishing thinners; both are lacquer based, but one will start the paint curing, while the other is a pure diluent and shoulc be used to thin the pain in its bottle. So to answer your question, Indeed, there are tremendous differences in what we know as lacquer thinners. Hope this helps. By the way, I strongly suggest that for thinning paint in their original bottles only use the

Oo... the starboard joint of the Tamiya '15?.... just f'ward of the cannon right? I would not force the joint. Try to fill with some thin plastic card stock and then trim around. Use Tenax or Tamiy super thin. Should work. DO NOT FORCE THE JOINT or it may pop out..... did to me!. Look out for the intakes too, unless you want a step between the lip and the intake trunking.

Tamiya pro (super thin) cement for regular plastic parts 5-minute epoxy for extra strength DWG (Diluted White Glue) for transparencies

Does not matter what type you get but you should try to locate it quite some distance from the air source (compressor) as moisture will condense when temperature in the air falls, and that is where the line trap is handy. Typically I have about 6 to 9 feet between the compressor and the trap so that the air is relatively cooler before it hits the trap. NEVER immediately have the moisture trap next to the compressor especially if you using one of those diaphragm types. If you are using a SilentAire compressor, then you are in relatively good hands. I used to model in Singapore where relati

I agree with MoFo. Floquil I believe are Xylene based. They WILL slightly "bite" into the plastic so the colors are very permanent!. Most importantly, you should wash the model in detergent to remove ALL finger oils before peinting, else there is a minor rish of the paint pulling off the surface when you remove the masks.

MoFo is completelycorrect, except that the filler is also Al2O3 (Alumina) combined with acrylic particles, which is why it sands into a fine powder. Thin with Gunze Thinner (Lacquer) Have fun Adrian

Dear TxAg, You probably got Mr. Color Lacquers which should be thinned with Mr. Color Lacquer thinners ONLY. If it is aquaeous then it is acrylic which requires water for thinning. Thinning: Everone talks about a 40:60 or 80:20 ratio... but I do not buy it. That depends on how thick the paint is in the beginning. If it has been on the shelf about 1 year, it could have the consistency of honey, if it is new-new it could have the consistency of melted ice-cream. How do I know if it is thin enough? With Gunze lacquers, Once it is the consistency of melted vanilla ice-cream it is still a litt